"SPEED" light, wash, and clutch issue

cool, sounds good. Uh, the speed light is fine. That's exactly what should happen there.

If the bike is starting straight away again, then maybe you did cause some kind of short. See if the problem repeats itself before jumping the gun.

Uhm, and for the clutch, well mines apparently different to everyone elses. Everyone says the clutch is quite tight, and you only have like half an inch of play. Thats probably why its jerky. You can adjust the cable so that it releases a bit earlier. There's a thread somewhere saying how to do this.. That'll probably make the clutch a bit smoother for you.

Here we go:

 

ahh, i see what you mean. Well, I did this with my exup cables, and it'd work with the clutch cable too:
Remove the cable, hang it up, and spray CRC or WD40 down the top of the cable. If it's really stiff move it around inside the casing to loosen any dirt/rust.

That should clean and kinda lube the chain nicely. I don't think you need to actually lube it, but if you feel the need, chuck some graphite in the cable ends.

It might also be the clutch spring, which is located under the fuel tank. Might be under the fuel pump (wouldn't know because I don't have a pump). If the spring is soft it would jerk and not spring back either.

 

Oh, might add that it could also be the clutch lever on the handlebars, or the other clutch lever - the one that attaches to the clutch - located after the spring under the fuel tank. If its NONE of those, its the actual clutch itself, and you might need a new basket/plates. But thats a last resort (and pretty unlikely).

 

Damien, my clutch was like yours and I used normal engine oil (new) on the cable. It has loosened up a fair bit and is a lot easier to get away without stalling.

I only pulled the cable out of the lever to do it.

Would have been a bit easier to lube if the cable was out.

DAVE

 

Sure it is. All you have to do is remove the cable from the sheath and then spay some air down it with an air compressor. Failing an air compressor you can get above mentioned cans of compressed air from electronics places, they use it to remove dust from computer parts and the like.

After saying that I have never done it myself and don’t know how helpful it would be.

I didn’t think you had to lube cables with nylon sheaths, I once heard that if you do it can lead to the sheath swelling and grabbing on the cable?

 

Although you most likely won't have to use graphite if you try oil, just make sure to clean off all the oil before you apply graphite. Oily graphite ain't so good.

Yeah I thought something like that might happen too. Thats why I suggested a dry lube. But Dave has had no problems, so...

 

just so you know - that speed light comes on at 80 because that is the limit in Japan. As all fzr's were grey imports this was never changed for the australian market.

As for the wash and no start - did you wash with fairings off? How did you wash (high pressure wash, or good ol' elbow grease)? I wouldn't have expected normal elbow grease with fairings on to cause any problems (I guess it depends on how much water too). High pressure could depending where you point it...

But as Timbus said - if it works fine now it probably was just a short somewhere due to water. Hopefully it is not one that will act up when the bike is rained on (and if it is you will need to track the problem down).

 

Really? I didn't know that. Well there ya go. I'm not sure if my light is connected, haven't gone over 80 yet!

 

Perhaps you have done what I did once or twice and try and start while it was in gear ?? and then wonder why it wouldn't go?? <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_redface.gif" alt="" title="Embarassed" /><!-- s -->

 

hey mate, sounds like you've got yourself a couple of "common garden variety" fzr problems. I can relate to the charging problem, i've had that with my bike.
It could be the battery (you said its new, but are you sure it was fully charged before putting in your bike? - some batteries require pre-charging).
It could be dirty electrical connections - pull the seats off to access the battery and clean the connection terminals and follow the wires, cleaning all connection points.
It could be the regulator/rectifier, which is a small unit bolted onto the right-hand side (from memory) frame just behind the seat. Follow red wire from the battery to find it (you will have to remove fairings).
Finally it could be the stator/rotor itself (pretty unlikely) behind the engine cover on the RHS.
If you can get hold of a digital multimeter, check the voltage across the battery when the bike is off (should be around 12.5-13V). With the bike revved up to about 5000rpm, you should get at least 13-14V, indicating the engine is charging the battery. If you get less, the charging system ain't doing its job, for one of the reasons given above. You can isolate the problem by following a check-list with a multimeter, I'll try and find the link somewhere....

 

It is fine to use a high pressure hose just have to keep it away from the electrical components and seals like on the forks and the chain etc.

As for this small tube under the tank, are they originating from the carbs or are they before the carbs? There are four hoses that come from the carbs themselves but I am fairly sure they are all overflows or breathers of some description.



When it comes to an alternator there are only really two parts, the stator and the rotor, never heard of a revolutionator.

 

My fuel goes right to the carbies - bypassing the fuel tap. Needless to say, I have no way to turn the fuel off (seriously, I can grab the switch and swivel it like I'm a fuel-tap-DJ) yet I have had no flooding issues arise from this.

However this may be different if you use a fuel pump.. somehow. Not sure.

And the electrical problem.. Hmm, could be related to the first problem you had. In fact you may have shorted something with the water, while the bike was running, which led to regulator damage.
I like to list worst case things, so don't fret. You might have just knocked a wire loose. The mechs will (should) know soon enough.

 

i had the same prob with the front brake light. I took the switch off on mine it was just one screw. In side the siled unit one of the littal brass bits had worn in to the plastic with a small bend in the right place it came back to life

 

the light could also be related to your charging problems. Fix that first, then move onto the next...

The regulator/rectifier can cause all the problems you describe and is an easy and relatively cheap fix. If it is the alternator then you will be looking at a lot more unfortunately (though I have not heard of an fzr with a bad alternator)

 

I had my shims done about 2 weeks ago and my mac sed he took off the alternator cover and ther was croshon in side from the small opening he clened it out and toled me to do the same in 2 months. I dont no if this can cause a charging problem