I've just bought meself a FZR250 (1990 3LN) and it seems to have a bit of a problem....after ridng for about 30 mins or so it just cuts out, after letting the bike cool down it starts up and goes for bout 30 mins again. What could be the cause of this? EXUP??
Most likely suspects - it could be a pick-up coil on the fly-wheel, ignition module, flat battery or a blocked breather vent in the petrol cap. When it stops, pull out a spark plug and check for spark, and check battery voltage.
So far (have trouble finding time to try much due to exams) I have ruled out battery problems, the battery was dead so i got a new one, charger cost more than the batt did <!-- s:shock: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_eek.gif" alt=":shock:" title="Shocked" /><!-- s:shock: --> and a blocked breather vent.....should have time to do more after wednesday. Also when its going theres delay between throttle and more power, so im thinking the carbs are filthy, and theres quite a strong smell of petrol when its idling, running rich??
jake, does this still happen with the new battery at all. My bike did this, runs for half hour or so and then it dies, uses up the batrery and then it dies. wait for 10 mins and it starts up, goes for 10 mins and it dies. turns out its the regulator that was stuffed. had that replaced and no problems at all after that.
Ei Ranier, Man, the bike has gotten me spending! And I mean spending buddy. I had the main and pilot jets replaced! (all of them) Had the wires replaced. The rectifier that was installed on it came from a china smallish bike and had it replaced too. I had to buy a flasher kit too since the turn signals do not work. The gaskets on the carbs are heavily damaged, the aux fan don't work anymore, the exup valve has this weird noises too. I still haven't ridden it far enough because it either overheats or cuts up. I sure do hope I can get it up and running up to my liking... Take care buddy.
Rage, I ended taking the bike into the mechanic and spent $300..and when i got it back it didn't go any better. However the flasher kit needed replacing and the gaskets on the carbs are damaged (i think thats what they are called..the rubber ring connecting the carbs to the heads) but they didnt replace them cause they should be fine for now. I haven't taken it for a long enough ride to see if the cutting out problem is fixed, cause it has no rego or warrant. But from the little rides up and down the street...sometimes exceeding the speed limit by 50ks <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt="" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s --> it sometimes bogs on starting up and wont rev. Also if i start off at too lower revs ie below 7k or let it get too low during take off it will bog and not rev. Am i going to have to spend big $$ to get this fixed. Also the exhaust pipe coming out of cylinder 2 has a small hole in it, i noticed that its had some repairs, welding on it already could this be causing any problems?
mate, if it came back from the mechanic in the same shape as you dropped it off in and you paid for the work, you need a new mechanic. i had the same issue with bogging at startup and no power at all below 7000. the issues for me were very dirty carbs, incorrect valve clearances and carbon deposits on the valve seats. get those 3 things checked, and you should see a major difference.
I'd do as Hayden recommends as well as getting those intake boots replaced. That will also be some of your woe's.
Jake, Yup, that has some effect too. Have the exhaust system cleaned and checked. Have the EXUP lubed too. Come to think of it, I have to get mine lubed as well. Good luck buddy.
Ei guys, I have this weird question, does anybody know the size of the tube/s that is connected to where you connect the carb sync? i just noticed that mine doesn't have this tube and i think it has some effect on the carbies as well. I also noticed on some of the mikuni carbies that I glanced upon on the web that instead of the said tubes, they use screws to plug the said connector/s. Anybody care to shed some light on this? Thanks! <!-- s:alcoholic: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_all_coholic.gif" alt=":alcoholic:" title="Alcoholic" /><!-- s:alcoholic: -->
Not really sure which tube your referring to; but going with the 'connect the carb sync' thing i'll explain this much - exactly as you said the connector is one that screws into the body of the carbs then the rubber hose attaches to the actual vacuum gauge. These holes should be blocked by screws when not balancing the carbs else it definitely will cause mayhem.
@koma thanks buddy! btw, do you think this causes the erratic idling of my fizzer? thanks again. <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt="" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s -->
If it's sucking air in and negating the vacuum in the carbs then i'd imagine the bike would be running like a complete pig!
It would hardly run. Probably a M6 but I've not got mine out yet to check balancing. As standard they have bolts in to seal. Remote carb kits have the connector and a rubber tube terminating in a bolt.. much easier than fiddling under the carbs all the time. For running problem check the coils and fuel pump operation as well as cleaning out carbs & adjusting exup. That's what my problem ended up being. I just stuck seom FZR1000 coils on cos that's what I've got lying about.
