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Problems with 1989 MC19 CBR250R

Discussion in 'Honda 250cc In-line 4's' started by nk7, May 31, 2012.

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  1. nk7

    nk7 Member

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    Another update: I realised I had not looked at all routes. Ebay! Most of the items above could be found on there for about half the price! Definitely search before you bite the bullet folks. Got sick of people starting their sentences off with.."it's an import...". Hopefully I can cancel the order.

    It doesn't hurt the wallet as badly whether you keep for 1 year or four. They were quoting me $130 for each braided line!! Ebay does it for half or less!!!! (limit on use of exclamation marks reached). Really kicking myself atm.

    Anyone know if MC22 rear brake lines are the same as MC19s?
     
    nk7, Jun 20, 2012
    #21
  2. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Hey nk7

    Reading your comments about cost of brake parts from Honda dealer in your area reinforces the belief that shopping around is vital.
    Many on this forum including myself have at times put forward the need to shop around, matters not what for but the more time spent researching and shopping on line, the more favourable outcome.
    At the end of the day, it's better to have the money in your pocket than theres. Happy shopping.
     
    Phil, Jun 21, 2012
    #22
  3. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    hmm, I know what you mean, I do try and buy australian and I think its vitally important to support Aussie retailers, however I located a MC19 kit on ebay for 1/3 of the price  you were quoted


    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Honda-CBR-250-RJ-MC19-88-Front-Caliper-Piston-Seal-Kit-/140678381704?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item20c115c088

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Honda-CBR-250-RK-MC19-89-Rear-Caliper-Piston-Seal-Kit-/150733911700?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item231870f694

    As for the brake lines.... I cant be 100% sure, but I belive they are slightly different
     
    kiffsta, Jun 21, 2012
    #23
  4. nk7

    nk7 Member

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    Yep those ebay items are the ones I'm talking about. Cancelled my Honda order (apart from the front master cylinder seal kit) and bought everything else I needed from ebay.

    I am wondering still about the brake lines - found braided lines on ebay for front MC19

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Goodridge-Honda-Cbr250Rrj-Rrk-Mc19-88-89-Front-Braided-Brake-Lines-Hoses-/280850920707?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item416404f503

    But nothing for rears apart for MC22:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Goodridge-Honda-Cbr250Rrm-Rrx-Mc22-90-99-Rear-Braided-Brake-Lines-Hoses-/280850916201?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item416404e369

    And they make it DOT standard for 1.20 GBP extra. I do look at Aussie online retailers first but for a bike like this - overseas has more and is more often than not cheaper. A shame but hey gotta be careful with my finances.

    I measured roughly the lengths of the front and rear brake lines on the MC19 and they are roughly the same - approx 56cm depending on where you measure from (tube ends). And the end fittings are similar if not exactly the same. Maybe 2 of these front lines would suffice...?
     
    nk7, Jun 21, 2012
    #24
  5. nk7

    nk7 Member

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    Folks it's been a while. Had a few issues been overseas and all and finally back home to resume work on the bike. I really mean it this time. [/size]Hey how do you get the chain off and on? Did you have to unbolt the chassis bolt? I imagine not but who knows...Also, which bolts/screws am I required to remove to get the carbies off so I can clean them thoroughly? Is cheap carbie cleaner from supercheap good enough or better to stay away from it? I've got some Clean-R-Carb from one of these auto shops but thought you might have a better recommendation..
     
    nk7, Sep 7, 2012
    #25
  6. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Hey nk7
    Good to hear from you. Lets see if we can help. First you'll have to remove the cover plate
    which hides your front sprocket on the left hand side of the engine. You'll encounter much grease and road grim under this plate. Undo the bolts that secure the sprocket to the engine and pull it towards you, the chain will be disconnected. If you want to remove it completely from the bike, the rear wheel will need to be remove also.
    To unfasten the carbs is fairly simple. You'll need a philips head screw driver, fairly long one and look under the carbs for the rubber boots that the carbs are fastened too. On the rubber boot is a fastener that needs to be loosened. Do this to all 4 carbs and you should then be able to rock the carbs forwards and backwards whilst lifting at the same time, should come off easily.
    As for throttle body cleaners, your choice. Good luck with it.
                                                                          Phil
     
    Phil, Sep 8, 2012
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  7. nk7

    nk7 Member

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    Got carbies off with a lot of trouble but got there in the end. Carbies all apart and relatively clean. Gonna give em a blow and probably a boil then back together again. Chain will have to wait for now. But I did l clean out the front gear sprocket area which was filthy and gummed up with black grease and dirt! It's been a while....


    Now I was pulling apart front master cylinder - has anyone rebuilt one of these? Just wondering how to remove spring rod and spring - do I screw the rod out? I tried but to no avail...
     
    nk7, Sep 8, 2012
    #27
  8. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Hey nk7
    I think that the piston within the master cylinder has a clip that holds it in. You should also check status of rubber seal within. Cleaning the internals can be done with brake cleaner.
    Sorry I can't be of more help. I did one many years ago and am a little rusty.
                                                          Phil
     
    Phil, Sep 8, 2012
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  9. nk7

    nk7 Member

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    Hi Phil. Yeh mate forgot to take photos but on the spring rod end there was a criclip that I removed and (had a fair amount of rust) then all I see is the rod. I can push it and twist/screw it in place but no movement out/in. I can try just forcing it out using some pliers, perhaps that will do it...


    Here are some pics that may help:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]






    [​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

    nk7, Sep 8, 2012
    #29
  10. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Hey nk7
    By thelook of those photos you have plenty of corrosion around the piston. Perhaps soaking it with WD40 or the like of and see if it loosens up. With the circlip removed I would have envisaged the piston and spring coming out. Not too sure what else to suggest.
                                                            Phil
     
    Phil, Sep 8, 2012
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  11. nk7

    nk7 Member

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    Alright folks had a good couple of days since last weekend to work on bike and very close to finish and start riding again. Here's some of the things I did:


    - Carbie bits & pieces cleaned out again (I am paranoid. One thing I am not sure of was if the vacuum slidy thing/ black rubber seal on the other side of the carbs could come apart. I just cleaned it as one piece - needle and all.)
    - Front/Rear Brakes rebuilt (new pistons/pads etc)
    - Front/Rear Master cylinders rebuilt (the front had a bit of rust which some WD40 and fine grit sandpaper on a drill bit ate right up)
    - Chain/Sprockets replaced and lubed up (the old chain was just grinded off. The new one had a clip which had to be press fitted on - these tools are just blocks of stainless steel and hex bolts. Costs around $20 from a bike shop for a mini press fit chain


    Things which if looked after would not have needed to be done to be honest......but all in all a good learning experience.


    Decided to give it a run with major components reinstalled (i.e. no fairings, air box). I gave it a quick start with full choke and slight throttle and some "start ya bas***d" in the carbies - and it came to life! Fuel tank wasn't on so didn't get it to idle and try and sync carbies. Btw which screws are the ones that you adjust for syncing carbs? I will look through manual later on..


    Before I tried the tank on to get it to idle, I noticed the throttle did not reset to original position. As in if I twisted the throttle a few mm's the throttle handle would stay in that position. Is this the throttle cables now jamming up? Because when the carbies were on their own  - the throttle cable holder could be twisted (to open the throttle in each cylinder) and it would revert back to the original position like a spring.
     
    nk7, Sep 20, 2012
    #31
  12. mapo_69

    mapo_69 Active Member Contributing Member

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    Hey mate I had the same thing happen to me and what a nightmare, I ended up getting mine with a screw I superglued to a screwdriver, I would screw it in but it would pull out ended up breaking it up that much it let go also I learned DO NOT SPRAY WD-40 in there if this happens it justs makes the rubber swell.
     
    mapo_69, Jan 14, 2014
    #32
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