"So what you need to get?" "An 8 millimetre-long, 4 mill, metric thread, high tensile bolt" "Ok, here's one" "Oh, but I need it with a 4 mill allen key head, with lil' side grip things.. and make it silver too" "Uh.. Don't thi-" "But my bike has em already on!" "Look, they aren't very common" "But I really need that bolt for the fuel tank flange" "Next please" "Look man, I really need-" "NEXT!!" So I got MOST of the bolts for my bike.. except ONE for the engine cover (the guy gave me one that was 2 mill too thick) and a bolt for the fuel tank.. Oh well. Its not important, and I can replace it later on in life. I'm just happy I fixed the exup.. up. So. Airbox. If I'm correct I SHOULD have trouble taking the box off, as the carbies SHOULD be attached to the airbox with these plastic.. things. That go to the carbies. The plastic plugs in, but.. It won't plug to the casrbies right. So in short I need new plastic attachments from the airbox to the carbies. You know what I mean. I do not want dirty air to get into my engine. At all. Can I get new plastic attachie-things? Also, the airbox is a bit worn and scratched. Can you just get new ones for the FZR two fiddy? Sorry if I sound illeterate. I'm tried AND drunk. So yeah. Need airbox and attatchments. Where, how, how much, or is there an easier way (can I make the attatching plastics soft again? That would cure it all)
ahh the thing with posting drunk posts is that they tend to get replied to by drunken replies which is interesting if you think.... arrrgh can you repeat the question please <!-- s:alcoholic: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_all_coholic.gif" alt=":alcoholic:" title="Alcoholic" /><!-- s:alcoholic: -->
Airbox to carby rubber tubes, don't bother replacing unless their cracked. Airbox; don't bother replacing. Unless their broken, don't fix them. I assure you there's better things to spend your money on.
Hmm TimBus did't see a thred "hey guys I just picke up mt new FZR!!" Or I'm just blind... how come you need the bolts?? try Yamwreck for the almost any thing FZR250... though 3LN.... difficult...
This place isn’t cheap but they should have what you are after. http://www.tastynuts.com Try going down to the wreakers as well. As for making plastic soft, try some hot water?
hot water shrank the rubber! <!-- s:shock: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_eek.gif" alt=":shock:" title="Shocked" /><!-- s:shock: --> Oh well, slammed it all together. Wasn't easy. Considering sealing the rubbers to the airbox for ease. Hey TBone, I got my Fizzer! It needed some bolts! So I can't believe I'm admitting this, but I'm sure I made a mistake.. After the buff-up I gave the bike, It started, with a semi flat battery on its first kick. It was instant. It's about 19 degrees outside, and I JUST replaced the oil and filter so.. Iono. Luck? But... it started coughing (and it hasn't done so before) and stopped. Petrol issues, I'm sure because then it didnt start without the choke on, and stalled with the feathertouch of the throttle. I'm wondering three things: 1) Did I attach the fuel hoses right? The one nearest to the front of the tank, goes to the carbies, right?? I assumed this because it was the one that dripped fuel readily when I was swishing the rust out. 2) Is the exup screwing it up? It was unattatched when I first ran it, and it didn't hiccup. And 3) Is it running very rich, or.. the opposite of rich? Because the airbox wasn't securely locked on as it is now, as its nearly airtight. It was getting near to backfiring when dipping the revs then revving again, which is entirely possible on any vehicle, but not so easy as this. ALSO: Oil light is on. Never flickers. Want a handy dash light? This is the one for you. Its got 2 litres in it. Its halfway in the sightglass. It's going around the engine though, cos when I start it, the oil goes away, and occasionally dumps back in there for a few seconds. Worried? Me? Yes..
grrr.. under normal conditions I would say OIL LIGHT!! DONT RIDE IT... but since you have verified that there is oil... I would check the oil sensor... located..... I have NO idea... (and I'm claming to be a bike mechanic) just check if the wires are actualy attached... As for testing it?? I cant remember if it is a level sensor or a preasure sensor... (YZF600 thandercat has a level sensor) but from expiriance... they almost never die... DID you get the bike with a RWC and reg?? if so (bit late now) I would have taken it to the Mechanic who gave it RWC and asked him WTF?? a bike has to have all its fairings attached in a safe manner... missing bolts like from the petrol tank... BIG NO NO...
Fairings all have bolts. Every one of em. Only one fuel tank bolt is on the loose, every other boltless hole I found hath been plugged. Probably plugged one too many, but eh. Thats ok. Which plug for the fuel tank man? Thats befuzzled me. Which plug goes to teh carbies, and which one to the tap? Oh, and new rubber attatchment things for the airbox->carbie airflow were estimated at like 60 bucks each.
I think I'm starving it. I shook the tank up a fair bit. Methinks that the rust I disturbed decided to lodge itself nicely right into to my filter. But I can't be sure. Definately not the exup? Didn't think so. Probably should be in a new thread, this new problem. My thoughts is I attatched the fuel hose wrong. Which goes where? Anyone?
The fuel tank on the 3ln should have 3 hoses that come out of it. Two in the middle are the reserve and main line. The one at the rear of the tank is an overflow line. The reserve and main fuel lines go onto bike side of the fuel tap. The pipe then goes from the bottom of the fuel tap, to the inline fuel filter, to the pump and then to the carbs. The overflow line just goes down past the rear shock and points towards the ground. Hope this is what you are looking for. And it does sound very much like the bike is running out of fuel.
Gah, after inspection, I can saftely say that this guy is a grade A moron. He had the fuel line straight to the carbies. Why? Cos theres no effin pump! Ah Geez... Well The problem was simple: Fuel hoses kinked. An un-kink, a battery charge, and it was running sweet and pretty darn clean. I take it the fuel pump would just border nessisary, because it ran down to almost the last drop (only put about 1.5 litres in it) with no hiccuping or anything. So, no control over reserve fuel, no, but I might devise a petrol gague of some kind to use while the bike is upright.. I took it for a burl down the road and even with a oil light permanently on it seemed fine for 2x10 minute rides. Temperature didn't go over 1/4 of the way up. Methinks the gauge be busted. Need to fix it to get roadworthy. One issue did arise though: I couldn't get it far over 10k rpm. It pushed and pushed but it just slumped after 9k. My uncle thinks its the exup, because he doesn't like the thought of anything covering the exhaust system. I think its something else, because it can push 10k while in neutral (I dont like doing it with no load on it though)
Try taking the cables off the exup valve and wire it open to see if it is the problem. Could be any number of things. Give the carbs a clean, might be a blockage or imbalance. I think a fuel pump is up for grabs in the for sale section too if you where interested. Also an inline fuel filter is a good idea so you don’t have to strip down the carbies every time you get crap sucked out of the tank.
Also, more on topic with the 'airbox and carbies' thing: I'm considering just ditching the airbox (its the most retarded invention on a bike - ever) Instead, I'll just get a large sheet of spidey foam from clarke rubber, and simply strap it onto the rubber deelies that connect the carbs to the airbox. I can use the metal fasteners on the rubber deelies (official names here) to keep the foam very securely fastened, and a replace would be easy as pie. back to the off topic bit: would not having a fuel pump be a huge problem? I'm looking for fuel pump as I ramble right now. Edit: Saw your post, I got a filter and replaced the old one the day I got the bike.
You might find that altering the air intake from standard can have affects on the mixture. If it restricts flow more than the current setup you will run rich but if it lets more air in it will run lean. If I was going to replace the air box and filter I would be going for the 4x pods and retune the bike to the new setup.
Now it is just me, but unless you are going with a full race exhaust and a stage 3 jet kit, I would not remove the airbox. You will not be able to tune around the issues created by losing the airbox unless you do.
Its not that I want more room, or less weight or whatever, I just think the airbox is a lame pice of equipment. It's constantly falling off the carbies, to the point where I'm going to have to seal the airbox to the rubber attatchments. If I don't do that air will continue to freely get in, and open carbies screw up the engine. Fine I'll just use bloody gap sealer on em. I'll seal it from the outside so I don't get window sealant breaking off and flying into my engine. Still don't like the airbox.
I'm not tyring to be an A$$ here, but they will go on and stay on. I have been able to do it with my 11 year old intake boots. I'm not saying that it is easy, but it can be done. I use a short section of 2x4 and lay it across the top of airbox. That way I get even pressure and equal leverage. I have even had to resort to a heat gun on a couple of ocassions.
Not really - there are quite a few fzr's running around without pumps. I don't know why - my fzr had 55 000 k's on it and the fuel pump was fine - I didn't think they would fail frequently... Regardless - you can ride aroudn without a pump. As you said you may have issues at the lower reaches of the gas tank. For a 2kr though (I know you don't have one) a fuel pump is almost a necessity because half the tank is below the level of the carbies.
I know they GO on, but they don't STAY on Tim. Thats all. I've put the box on 3 times now, and after a run, the box is off all four of em. Like in 10 minutes... And I'm sick of taking half an hour fiddling round with a tiny screwdriver trying to get the boots in. So I sealed em. All good.
