oil light

The oil light is driven from a LEVEL switch. Check the oil level. I have had mine come on when the level is a bit low and I am waiting at the top of my steep driveway facing uphill waiting for my automatic gate opener to get off her bum.

Hard acceleration will also bring on the light if level is low.

 

Are you using the right oil?

What is the viscosity rating?

Was the engine warm at the time?

Did you change the oil filter as well?

How do you change gears? If the clutch is in and gear disengaged, this will suddenly drop the rpm, which starves the engine because from such a high rpm to low rpm doesn't give time for the oil to compensate.

I'm guessing either one starved the engine whilst it was moving at such high rpm, hence why the light comes on.

That light usually never fails. It was still working on my '83 CB250, luckily.

Unfortunately though, we love our FZR250s, but they are ALL very old. With this comes many problems and nothing can stop that (unless the bike was kept in a vacuum). I just can't wait till my license let's me upgrade.

 

The clutch is there for a reason, to disconnect the engine from the transmission to change gears. Using the clutch correctly can smooth out the shift and put less stress on the drivetrain.

as for the oil light, it is suppose to go on during cranking, nothing new here. You probably didn't notice the light until you start monitoring it.

 

Not this clutchless thing again.

Yes it's possible, but good no. It increases wear etc. You really only do it for racing when you want to go as fast as possible. Sure do this on the road, by all means just in a sensible manner (don't speed) and keep paying that extra for a clutch/gear box ever now and then. My point; clutless shifting is useless.

Heck, if that were so true, we wouldn't even need a clutch would we?

Anyway, light goes on when the bike is starting simply because the oil needs to circulate in the engine.

All I can say is get her checked out by yourself or mechanic or hope for the best.

 

If you're trying to ride fast then generally you "clutchless shift" up, but under braking / downshifting you use the clutch to help you match engine speed to the rear wheel (ie to allow you to stay in the power band without causing a compression lockup while the synchromesh tries to adjust engine / rear wheel speeds).

Clutchless shifting puts a lot of stress on the clutch basket. Likewise, slipping the clutch too much can cause excessive heating of the oil and increase wear on the clutch friction plates.

Personally I find that under hard acceleration and high RPM's clutchless shifting doesn't always work anyway (unless you're REALLY quick with snapping the throttle off/on). I almost always disengage the clutch slightly in combination with a "clutchless shift".

ie at the same time as I snap the throttle off, I also quickly pull the clutch in about 1cm. As I snap the throttle back on I let the clutch go. Takes the same time as a clutchless shift but feels far smoother and more predictable.

I never clutchless shift down unless my clutch cable is broken. Even on the track. It's unnesesary, somewhat unpredictable, will undoubtably upset the chasis (which is not what you want comming into a corner fast), and puts huge amounts of stress on the clutch basket.

Just pull the clutch in, match engine rpm, and let it out, braking the whole time.

 

Unless you have an electronic cutout linked to the shifter (reverse pattern {1-up & 5-down}, of course), I'd advise against clutchless shifting if at all possible.

Preloading the shifter on the other hand, is a good idea.

 

It's what MotoGP riders have. The gears are reversed so when they're in a corner they can just blip the foot down and select the next gear.

Once again given this condition it is much safer this way, on the road most definately not.

 

Copied from CYCLEWORLD without permission

Every millisecond counts in racing, which is why electronic quick shifters are must-have items. Are these devices also useful on the street? To find out, we installed a Dynojet Quickshifter on our long-term MV Agusta Brutale.

How does the Quickshifter work? Pressure on the shift lever sends a signal to the ECU that momentarily cuts ignition, thus unloading the transmission gear dogs and allowing clutchless, full-throttle up-shifts.

With the Brutale, installation was as simple as plugging the unit into the expansion port of the previously installed Power Commander III USB. No PC III? Dynojet offers an independent control box ($230) and wiring harness ($40-$80).

There are two styles of shift sensors. The "in-line" Shift Rod Tension Sensor threads into a custom Dynojet shift rod ($13), while our Linear Sensor mounts to the stock shift lever and is anchored to a fixed point on the bike. "Push" or "pull" designs suit any type of linkage, as well as street or race-style shift patterns.

Ignition-cut duration—adjusted using the PCIII USB software—ranges from 1 to 255 milliseconds. Normal settings typically fall between 50 and 75 milliseconds. Establishing a minimum rpm setting ensures that ignition cutout will not occur, for example, when shifting into neutral at a stop. We set ours at 4000 rpm, and while it is possible to use the Quickshifter at such low rpm, it is really designed to offer the most benefit during high-rpm running.

Which it does. Shifts were lightning-quick and exceptionally smooth, with the added benefit of not upsetting the chassis when exiting corners. Sure, the Quickshifter is overkill on the street, but it's undeniably fun to use. Isn't that why we ride in the first place?

 

Yea I'm considering getting one in about 6 months time to turn my 250 into a track bike but I'm not too sure if it's worth it, I probably will just sell my bike and buy a new one though. Money is the main issue <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_sad.gif" alt="" title="Sad" /><!-- s -->

 

Preloading the shifter is putting a small amount of pressure on the shift lever right before shifting. This will increase shift speed and result in a more solid/positive shift.

 

I top my bike out and I nvr get the red light. It does seem like a rev limiter comes on.

 

Ok, firstly we need to establish if this is a level sensor or a pressure sensor so telling us what model your FZR is will help significantly.

If we discover it's a level sensor then it's a relatively easy sort of fix - either top your oil up a teency bit, or use a thinner oil. By the sounds of it your winding it right up to redline which means more oil is getting drawn from the sump and pumped up until the sump level drops too low because all the oil has just been circulated and it hasnt had time to return to the sump.

If we discover it's a pressure sensor then it couple be a number of things. My initial guesstimate is that the oil pump is cavitating at extremely high rpm, or the process of the rev limiter kicking in is causing it to cavitate and therefore stops pumping oil properly for a short while.

The easiest thing to do would be to stop hitting the redline and shift before you hit the redline. If you learn to shift reliably at just over 18k rpm then your going to avoid hitting the rev limiter which will slow your shift down significantly!

In regards to the rev limiter, i'm pretty positive that all FZR's have a limiter in them although it will vary depending on the model. 19250rpm indicated was about where the rev limiter was on my little 3LN-3, but on a mates 2KR it seemed to be at about 18750 indicated.