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New Engine

Discussion in 'FZR250.com - Archives' started by Jake_NZ, May 5, 2007.

  1. Jake_NZ

    Jake_NZ New Member

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    I blew up the engine in my 3ln2 (to many cold starts i reckon) and have just brought a replacement engine, it (supposedly, no reciepts) has new valves, pistons, conrods, rings and a ground head, but does not have a timing chain or carbs, and so i got it for $150 <!-- s:D --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s:D --> however it has been sitting wrapped it a sheet in a garage for the past 2 years. Could this cause problems? Whats should i do with it before i put it in the bike becides the timing chain?
     
  2. koma

    koma New Member

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    How keen are you to make sure the engine is the goods?
    If i was in your situation and had bought an incomplete rebuilt engine i'd be inclined to tear it down again and reassemble it myself so i could be positive it was done properly and there were no other shortcuts taken.
    If the rebuild was done by someone i trusted then i'd take their word for it... but i'm guessing this was from a trading post ad or ebay... or worse.

    I guess if you lube up the engine with a bit of oil on all moving surfaces then crank it over by hand, check that everything is moving as it should be and no clunks or obstructions through the full range of movement. If your happy with what you see then finish reassembling it.

    PS. It could have rust in places there really shouldn't be and doing a full tear down will tell you straight away if it needs any restorative work from it's 2 year holiday.
     
  3. Jake_NZ

    Jake_NZ New Member

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    I'm fairly keen to know if the engine actually has the goods as this will increase the resale, not to mention my confidence in it's reliability.
    Getting the mechanic to install the new timing chain and the carbs off my old motor, so i may as well get him to strip it down at the same time.

    ....restorative work??

    Apparently the guy i brought it off has spent over $1200 on it to get it ready for use in a buggy when things started to get a bit expensive, the parts were sourced from japan, proper genuine bits. The timing chain and the carbs were lost during the rebuilding process.

    If my carbs are fudged, does anyone have any idea what might i have to fork out to get them rebuilt?

    Dam things are starting to get expensive, this bike was supposed to be a quick do up. And only on $80 a week the process is getting slower now that my savings are gone.
     
  4. FZR Dude

    FZR Dude New Member

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    Personally I would not install a used cam chain. Only new.
     
  5. Jake_NZ

    Jake_NZ New Member

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    No i'm not, new timing chain, old carbs

    I wanting to give the carbs a decent clean, but can't find posts on how to do so apart from, dismantle clean and clean them again, are there any photo guides on how and what to clean?
     
  6. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    Don't think you looked to hard in the "how to" section <!-- s:D --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s:D -->

    Here is another cut and paste from one of my old posts on the same issue -

    Have a read of these first - they will help immensely.

    Carb cleaning and balancing
    <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=1487">http://fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=1487</a><!-- m -->
    <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=673">http://fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=673</a><!-- m -->
    <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=1702">http://fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=1702</a><!-- m -->

    If it is not mentioned, also check that the float valves work properly by doing a bench test with fuel supplied via long hose from the running fuel pump as you won't get the supply pressure equall to pump pressure without a tank 3 metres higher than the carbs.
     
  7. FZR Dude

    FZR Dude New Member

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    Sorry Jake, My bad. I'm not getting enough sleep.
     
  8. Jake_NZ

    Jake_NZ New Member

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    Maybe i'm blind but after going over these links a second time i couldn't find anything that helped me with the cleaning side of things...only with balancing. I have no idea at all about the insides of carbs apart from the fact that they put air and fuel into the engine.

    Currently i have taken the metal covers for the float bowls off and cleaned out all the brown crap. Then had no idea what to do after that...
     
  9. metralla66

    metralla66 New Member

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    ok, here's what you do....be carefull with the parts. set them somewhere you wont lose them....
    1) remove slide cover and slide. be careful not to lose the small o-ring that is next to the slide diaphram.
    2)you already have the float bowl off, so remove the pin and float. careful not to lose the needle or bend the tab the needle rides on. now remove the seat (the other piece of yellow plastic)
    3)remove the screw that is under the emulsifier tube (its the brass hex head)
    4)remove jet block, its gasket (carefully), and set in a bowl of carb cleaner
    5)remove slide block (the white plastic piece) be careful, it has a small o-ring at the bottom
    6)remove two screws that hold in butterfly valve, remove valve, slide shaft out of carb body (keep track of how this comes apart)
    7)remove choke assembly
    8)remove pilot air screw, washer, and o-ring (it's on the bottom, outside the float bowl)
    9)remove all seals for fuel tees, air tees etc.
    10)there should now be no more rubber on the carb body....soak in carb cleaner for at least 24 hours, shoot carb cleaner through all passages to ensure they are clean (jet block too).
    11)reassemble

    I hope this helped
     
  10. Jake_NZ

    Jake_NZ New Member

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    Hey thanks a lot metralla exactly what i was looking for ill get onto it tonight....sounds like ive got a bit of a job ahead of me. Keep me quiet for a few hours <!-- s:) --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" title="Smile" /><!-- s:) -->
     
  11. metralla66

    metralla66 New Member

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    no problem, If you have any problems, feel free to drop me an IM
     
  12. Jake_NZ

    Jake_NZ New Member

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    Having difficulty removing the slide block, does it just take more force?
     
  13. metralla66

    metralla66 New Member

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    the only thing that holds the slide block in is the screw at the end of the emulsifier tube. after that, it just takes a fair amount of force to pull it out. You can try tapping a small bolt against the end of the tube. If it starts to push through the block instead of the block moving, then stop. You will then have to pull it out from the diaphram side
     
  14. Jake_NZ

    Jake_NZ New Member

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    Got most of them out without incident, however on the last one the plastic around the hole decided it didn't want to come out with the rest of it, i think that it should be ok but if not can i buy a new one?

    IM??
     
  15. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    Instant message ~ private mail
     
  16. Jake_NZ

    Jake_NZ New Member

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    Oh i see, swt as, thx
     
  17. metralla66

    metralla66 New Member

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    i had the same problem with one. you can buy a new one, or....liberal use of epoxy. the slide block wont be able to be removed again. just be carefull where the epoxy ends up. keep it out of the inside of the emulsifier tube, and the bore of the carb.
     
  18. metralla66

    metralla66 New Member

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    so, how did everything go?
     
  19. Jake_NZ

    Jake_NZ New Member

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    Well I've got it all apart, cleaned the carb block with carby cleaner and the outside with engine degreaser. However i stopped halfway through step 6
    Not sure how to remove the shaft as it seems that i would have to seperate all the carbs to get the shaft out??
    Also the bolt holding the choke assembly was too tough to remove (almost shredded the head on it (philips head))
    Am waiting to use my granddad's air compressor cause we don't have one (yet).
    Also you have said to soak parts in carb cleaner, do you mean to have like a bucketful of the stuff and drop the part in there, cause nowhere round here has anything like that.

    Ive got plenty of time to finish it as my new engine will not get here till sometime next week.
     
  20. metralla66

    metralla66 New Member

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    the only way to do a proper job is to seperate the carbs. gumout sells carb cleaner in a one gallon can. looks like a paint can. it comes with a basket for dipping.
     

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