My bike stalls after high revs

well...this should b posted in the technical section...but yeah
i would say the carbs just flood since u are at wot at 10k then drops to idle at 2k.
how bout slowing down with the clutch out n gearing down n pulling the clutch in at a lower rev?
it hasnt happened to me on the bike but hav had this issue in the car. all i done was clean the throttle body n all was good again..dunno bout the bike tho. <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s -->

dave

 

Normal, no. Common, yes. As said it is likely just caused by flooding the carbs. Does it only happen when braking/slowing quickly? From your description the first part seems to be when you slow quickly, but then you say it also happens when you let the bike just slow itself? If it only happens on rapid deceleration it would be carb flooding and it does happen (as Garfield said).

If it happens when you let the bike slow itself... when you pull the clutch in at 10 000+ revs it should drop to idle speed. What can happen is the engine revs slow too fast and goes below idle speed and too slow and thus stalling. Is your bike idling high enough? It should be at around 2000 revs (whcih is difficult to assess given that the tach only goes down to 4000). To gauge this I bring the idle speed up to 4000, then bring it down to what I think is about 2000.

You can also let the clutch out slowly when it stalls and you are still moving - the bike will 'catch' and start turning over again. Be careful when you do this as you will feel a bit of a jolt when it does catch and be ready to pull the clutch back in (in essence you are push-starting the bike again). Wasn't sure if you knew you could do this.

 

Ive got an 88 as well exxup..and I occasionally get that problem...It never seems to be on the road..and always when I pull up in my drive...as ill accelerate up and brake to a stop.

 

same model bike and same problem when i bought it - had a difficult couple of weeks trying to learn to ride with a bike which kept stalling at the lights - i know what its like! Turns out the bike had filthy carbies (in particular blocked pilot jets which supply the fuel at idle) and a filthy air filter and needed a good tune up (including valve clearances reset) - if you can afford it get it done 'cos i haven't stalled once since - makes a hell of a difference

 

Yeah ive had all that done..the only thing I havn't changed is the air filter...I think it is reasonably filthy...but just cant be bothered replacing it..

Ive never stalled at the lights though. Only time ive stalled is when I hit reserve....quite embarrasing when the bike stops and I cant start it...sitting between 2 cars <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_redface.gif" alt="" title="Embarassed" /><!-- s -->

 

Yeah, I find I do this occasionally as well.

High revs followed by none... happens in heavy traffic as well. Then the bloody thing is flooded and takes a moment or two to start...

Happened on the GP ride from Cranbourne. Right at the last set of lights... How happy was I?

 

My bike has got an identical problem - lights, driveways, pulling into certain shops it stalls like nobody's business. The problem was a lot worse - it would happen frequently, and take several minutes to clear. I've since installed a new battery, and the extra spark seems to help it burn on - bad battery + weak recharge system was a recipe for much pain, consternation and threats of pushing it into a river.

Happens much more rarely, but you can usually save it by pulling out the clutch and briefly restoring some revs.

The FZR has a real flat spot down low - a carb cleaning, and possibly an o-ring replacement can help a bit

 

There seems to be quite a bit of discussion over @ EXUPBrotherhood.com on the issue of float height. Has anyone investigated this on the 250's in relation this problem?

Just an idea...

 

yeah, my fizzer does that too, always at the same spot. My driveway is uphill so i gear down to first and ride up then if i pull the clutch all the way in while still in first the engine dies.

Also notice when i'm riding hard and go to change gears if i hold the clutch in for a second or too the engine goes quiet. then when i release the clutch it roars back too life. I guess its kinda like push starting itself.

 

Probably a good idea too. In answer to your question I there was one post related (see http://www.fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=562&highlight=float) and it solved his problem.

 

just on a side note, when looking for a mechanic to tune carbs etc, is it best to go to a motorcycle mechanic? or will any mechanic that knows carbies do?

i get the stalling after high revs problem too every now and then and ive been recommended several diffferent bike workshop that are in woopwoop-land and i dont know if i could be bothered going all that way...

any thoughts?

thanks

simon

 

hey chiangstar
where in sydney are you located?

 

in lugarno... in the south... towards hurstville area... actually closer to oatley, if you know where that is

i have a hard enough time finding a reliable car mechanic let alone a reliable bike mechanic... so usually i do all my car and bike stuff myself... the only problems are 1. not enough time, and 2. i dont know anything about carbies

cheers

simon

 

there was a recent discussion about this somewhere... forget where really (perhaps netrider, perhaps exupbrotherhood, or another forum). Anyways a few people suggested that smaller independent workshops and mechanics tend to be the most reliable. The reasonings (from what I read) was that they need to ensure a good job else you won't return and you won't tell anyone else to go to them. If they do a good job, then you will return and you may tell other people to visit them.

So unless you need to use a specific workshop for insurance or warranty reasons, perhaps try to locate a smaller workshop?

I started going to a small shop when I first got my bike (for no other reason than it was close, and if I was going to leave my bike I needed to walk home). Had a great experience and have always gone back to them. The guy who owns the shop has been there for ages now, and the second mechanic has been there at least 10 years and thus have seen and know bikes (better than a 18 year old mechanics apprentice employed by a large dealership having fun with my bike).

 

The only time my bike has stalled is when riding through places like Campsie with heavy traffic. The FZR does not like it, I treat it well, easy on the clutch but it heats up and sometimes chokes out. <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_sad.gif" alt="" title="Sad" /><!-- s -->

 

having personally experienced problems finding a good car mechanic for my imported car, i do think that finding a mechanic that has worked on your type of vehicle before makes a big difference. the small local shops really didnt have much of an idea when it came to my car and im thinking, with the fzr, it might be a similar experience.

Having said that, most 4 stroke, 4 cylinder 250's are pretty much the same arent they?

simon

 

When I first got my bike I almost went insane trying to learn to ride it, coming straight from cars didn’t have much of a clue how to ride a sports bike (bit more technically demanding than the stay up CB250 <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: --> ).

I was having the same problem so I had my carbs worked over, increased idle speed and now never let the revs dive so low so quickly. I also found that learning how to tweak the throttle whilst hard braking is a must, takes a bit of practice. I like to keep it revving, I find it a bit disconcerting if I can’t hear the engine, as happens if you let it go to idle while you are still moving.

When I got my carbs pulled apart and had the works done to my bike it cost me just under $450 but as spook told me it is worth it to have a bike that runs properly.

Hope you can get it sorted, once you do you will never look back <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cool.gif" alt="" title="Cool" /><!-- s --> .