LAMS 01 NSR150 Sydney

2 bangers mate after a while will have small minor things that make them run not as well as they should, thats where the head scratching comes into play.

 

Hi there, welcome.
We've got two, one has been the learn to ride bike for both kids & the other is for show with all Tyga gear.
The learner is still in use & we've had no trouble at all.
We've mucked around with carbies reshaping the bore & increasing the jet but really didn't improve much, it all just got too rich, the kids raced 2 stroke karts for 8 yrs & they know the difference. The stock carby works well on the road, we run a foam oiled inlet pod & she sports a full Tyga exhaust.
I'm 110kg & she hauls my fat arse along no trouble at all, she gets up to full revs in each gear. Emma's about 60kg & it's perfect, goes like a shot.
If your a bit handy, I'd clean the power valves & check the cable is adjusted to spec. I don't know if its just me but the book setting for the cables are odd, they seem contradictory to the drawings & they don't line up with the casing marks, I just do it by eye & it turns to the full open pos & returns to closed ok.
There is one thing to be aware of & thats the valve wheel that takes the cables out on the side of the head has a LEFT hand thread nut on it, one of ours was stripped of course. The nut is very thin/flat & will strip straight away if over tightened.
Keep the oil filter / strainer thats in the oil feed line clean & should be good.
Also check all your inlet rubbers are not perished through & sucking air, it'll cause a lean mixture & a seizure or a hole in the top of the piston.
There's a special tool to enable the tightening of the chain, good idea to get one, hard without it but easy with it. The learner bike was sold to us because he went down with a back wheel lock up & we have deducted that it was because the chain came off being too loose & jammed up the rear.
Make sure the plug is correct as they issued a bulletin changing the spark plug, I got one from Auto Barn about $4
They have a plated bore so only use a synthetic oil for the fuel oil that goes in the reservoir under the seat
They have a gearbox, different oil in there, check it's good too.
Sorry I'll stop, getting carried away, great bike to learn on.
I had a contact in Thailand that got us a lot of parts cheap if you have any trouble.

 

Out of curiosity what car did you trade?

 

If the bikes in good repair I think you've done really well with that deal

 

Great little bike mate! I had a Cagiva Mito (125 2 smoker) back in the day and it was a weapon.

As Will mentioned, definitely a good idea to pull out the power valves and give them a bit of a clean then set them up correctly. Couldn't hurt to swap out all the fluids, throw a new sparkplug in it and give the air filter a clean / re-oil as well.

Cheers

 

Yeah it's pretty straight forward. If the valves are coked up, hardest thing is getting them out of the barrels. You may need a puller to do it. I know Tyga sells them for the 250, maybe for the 150 as well.

As far as adjusting the chain tension goes, a small adjustable C-Spanner might do the trick. If not and you are in a bind I may have a spare adjuster for the MC28 lying around. I imagine both bikes would use the same tool.

 

If the top end was recently redone, as you say, you may be able to get the power valves out by hand. They tend to be more of an issue when they haven't been touched for a long time. The get a build up of carbon on them which makes them very difficult to remove. It's good to clean and adjust them regularly if you can. If they are clean, they are less likely to bind up which can lead to the power valve actuator motor burning out. Most other things on the bike can be done with normal tools. If you plan to work on the bike yourself it's worth investing in a work shop manual.

 

Have you given any consideration to using a can of Threebond engine conditioner. This is what this product is made for, no need to dismantle engines or power valves. Might be worth a try to get the carbon cleared out and then it should be in a better position if you still want to dismantle thereafter. Think about it !

 

I use that myself Phil. It's good stuff.

 

Hey Fox
Do you think this would assist HOT150 to semi de-coke the engine to start with, probably wouldn't do any harm to get rid of some carbon? Just my 2 cents worth.

 

Not too sure Phil. I've never run it through an engine. I've always used it to spray or soak disassembled components. If I did use it I'd probably take off the air box lid, take out the filter, put the choke on and spray it down the trumpets, running it through the engine at idle. The power valves are in the exhaust port though so I imagine the Threebond would be burnt up before it got to the power valves.