Hey Guys, Finally got around to getting my bike up from Bundaberg. I plan on fixin' her up and getting it back on the road. Its been sitting for about 3 years, so will have to go over it thoroughly. I am no means a mechanic, so all of this is a learning curve for me, so be kind! But being the helpful forum you guys are, I'm sure I won't have much of a problem. All my parts are currently in the mail and should arrive this week. The one thing I did have though were the seal kits. Near the end of using my bike, and buying a TT Supra, the bike would hit the dreaded 6k - 8k rev soft spot. So lets get to it! Here is how the bike came A lot of the fairing are cracked and destroyed. I bought some from over seas, fingers crossed on fitment. I'll keep my originals and get them fixed eventually. It's just going to cost a little bit of money. Box of black fairings. First thing out was the air filter to get the carbs. As soon as I touched it, it fell apart in my hand. I think its time for a new one. The carbs are out! First up was the seals to the air filter. They were buggered. The very far was the worst, which you probably cant see very well. I also have a lot of print outs there from the forums, on pink paper of course. They helped tremendously. New rings on the float filters. The picture is a little dark but the old ones weren't in the best condition. All other rings were replaced, sorry I didn't take pictures of all of them, it was a decision between a beer in the hand or a phone taking pictures. The carb was put back together. Here are some pics of what was under the air filter and carbs. There is so much gunk. The frame has a one little rust spot. And the the exhaust (manifold?) what's it called? (Like I said, still getting all the terms right! Haha) is REALLY rusted. Touching it makes flakes of rust fall to the ground. Can this be saved? Thanks for viewing. That's where I'm at so far. Next step is to put it back it, clean the tank. I have a new battery, oil, oil filter, coolant and spark plugs on the way. Hopefully she turns over at least. I'll update this regularly throughout the week as I'm currently on holidays.
At that stage you will want to take the exhaust headers off and sand them, or get them sandblasted and painted with high temp exhaust paint. Hopefully its just surface rust
Super fast reply haha. No worries, Ill get them off this week and look around north brisbane to see what can be done.
Stick a rag or cover those inlet ports while the carbys are off and your tinkering ..... u don't want crap falling in there or a nut or bolt. Most of us here just get into rusted headers (exhaust) with wet and dry sandpaper and heat proof rattle can paint. Bit of elbow grease needed but cheap ! http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/project-honda-cbr250rr.3421/#post-38942
Carbs are back on. Oil, oil filter and coolant replaced. I've put the carbs back on to test. Hooked fresh fuel up and turned her on. She started first go. But will only run with the choke. As soon as I touch the accelerator, it dies completely. The choke will only rev it up to 4k RPM. I did replace the seals on the pilot screws. I've tried 2 1/2 , 2 and 3 turns. They all make no notable difference. I am running without the airfilter on top so I dont have to take it apart every time. Is that okay? The carbs are in place correctly, as I've triple checked.
The airbox is designed to create the best airflow into the carbs so its better to have it on But at least it runs! Do u change the plugs? Check that the leads are in correct order .... 1 coil fires 1 and 4 cylinder and the other fires 2 and 3 Its always worth screwing off the plug caps and snipping a couple of mm off the end, so the caps can screw into some new fresh wire in the lead for max spark.
Thanks Grey, I have spark plugs ready to go in. The leads are currently numbered and are in the correct order. All cylinders are very hot. I'll switch with the new ones. It just feels like it dies very easily when Im not pressing on the choke.
The one socket I dont have is the 16mm required. Everything above and below. Ill run down to supercheap tomorrow. Did another test, went as low as 1 1/2 turns with nothing. But at 2 it came back to life. Like I said before, only revs with the choke at 2 - 3k. If I let go it dies, or if I touch the acc. even the tiniest bit it clonks out straight away. This may be abit of a newb question, but there was a noticeable amount of air coming out of the hole shown in pic 11, in the centre there where the air box covers, I'm guessing thats normal? Todd
well, I might as well pickup where Todd left off, I purchased this bike yesterday and took it up to Phils place so he had something to work on, I also loaded my old silver A model so we had some spares. When I arrived, Phil hooked me up with a nice eye fillet and some veg and a bourbon and coke which was kind a cool, we then hit the garage at 8pm. First job, Carbies. The main jets were clean, slow jets blocked solidly, needles had gunk on them and the emulsion tubes were a mess. We setup a jar of threebond and soaked everything for a few hours, alas the slow jets were still blocked, so Phil ripped the carbs off the silver one and guess what they were blocked too, they went into a separate jar of threebond for a hour, a quick blow of the compressor and the jets were clear. It was now 11:45, who cares, poured some fresh fuel, hooked up the jump pack and she started. Yay , now off the bed. Back at it at 7am, air box on, tank on, headers off for a quick paint, and it was like... bugger it lets put the fairings on. The rear fairings from china were not drilled so we had a sort that out. Next the screen was fitted and the front fairing went on, followed shortly by the side ones. Still some work to do, the front tyre is cactus, wouldn't mind bleeding the brakes and the clutch is very touchy, its a WIP. Phil said bugger it, now its sorted you might as well take it home, so its here in the garage. Another 2fiftycc.com member here gave me a new set of fairings from an A model, he has ordered some C model ones on Ebay and they shipped A model fairings instead, he got a refund and didn't need them so he offered them to me. Its uncanny how close the colour matches the tank.
fitment was pretty good overall, quite happy how it looks. I bought a new Dunlop GPR300 front tyre for $145 fitted and proceeded to fit new sprockets and a chain. The bike came with a chain and 48T rear so I hunted around Saturday for a 14 front, the closest I could find was a 15T, so I bought that, once I had everything fitted up, I spun the back wheel and there was grinding from the sprocket cover, the 15T was just too big. The bike origionally had a 13T on it and it was well worn, so I had a hunt around the garage and found an old 14T from an old ZXR that was near new, and fitted that instead. I done my roadworthy check and the last thing that needs sorting is the brake switch on the brake pedal, its not working. I have a ZZR250 in the garage which uses the same type, so I will fit that shortly.
I checked the wiring to the switch, it was all good, I then adjusted the switch on the rear set and took it up about 3mm, the switch now engages. I think Im ready for rego
She now has 6 months rego, thanks to Phil for sorting that out. The exhaust I fitted has been drilled out so she is rather loud, but I kind a like it like that The clutch cable is shagged, I have one on order from motorcycle spares warehouse, I also ordered some levers and new mirrors on ebay. I also tagged her with a forum sticker Here is a little vid, Im not trying to wring its neck, more get a feel for it, this is only the 2nd ride I have had on her, the A model feels different to C model.
Very nice work getting her back to life and on the road man. Obviously was in good hands once I sold it to you.
