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Help Installing voltmeters

Discussion in 'Kawasaki 250cc In-line 4's' started by sharky, Sep 14, 2016.

  1. sharky

    sharky Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys, I recently had a R/R burn out & cook the battery on a longish trip which could of easily been prevented with a simple voltmeter, well they arrived today, without instructions. Now as I understand it, the negative can be earthed anywhere like a frame nut/bolt yes? But where should the positive wire go? I only want it on when the bike is of course so im assuming its the ignition yes? If so there is 7 wires in the ignition, 2 always have power,2 never have power, & the other 3 have power under ignition, would any of those 3 be ok to connect to? Hopefully its yes to all.cheers

    20160914_143335.jpg
     
  2. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah sound's right.
    Run the earth wire to a decent mounting point, bare metal with a smear of dielectric grease on it.

    Is the brown the + power all the time and white is the switched + power coming off the ignition switch ?
    The other switched power wire's off the ignition might be lighting etc so may show a slightly lower voltage when the ignition is on

    A charged battery should be reading above 12.6v minimum
     
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  3. sharky

    sharky Well-Known Member

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    20160914_163202.jpg The 2 white wires always have current, the blue and red on the right never have current, which leaves the yellow orange and brown as the switched wires, so should I not use the wire that runs the lighting?
     
  4. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I just looked at the wiring diagram again, running the red off the brown should be ok as it's before the light's
     
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  5. sharky

    sharky Well-Known Member

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    Cheers mate, the brown it is then. How and where along the wire would you connect up? Can it be soldered straight to the ignition?
     
  6. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I would tap into the wiring either off the lead coming from the switch, or off the main harness if your meter wiring is long enough
    You can get a crimp on terminal that will crimp onto the brown wire, then you can plug in a male spade terminal on the end of you voltmeter lead
    That way you can disconnect it easily if you need to at some stage

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Or you could strip back the insulation off the wire and solder on a short wire lead with a female crimp on terminal and insulate where you stripped it

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  8. sharky

    sharky Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I had too heat shrink my voltmeter cause there was no backing on it, can you get those crimp on terminals from supercheap or autobarn
     
  9. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  10. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    I've been using one of those little volt meters on my Dominator for years. Be aware that they are not waterproof, but it comes back to life after it dries out again.
     
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  11. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Hi Sharky,

    Bit late for me to chime into this thread, but I run my voltmeters straight off the battery with a simple on/off switch in one of the wires. That makes it easy for me to see what the battery is doing if the engine is off. They don't draw much current...I know because I accidentally forgot to turn one off once and 3 days later the battery still had enough charge to do the job.

    Cheers

    Frank
     
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  12. sharky

    sharky Well-Known Member

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    Hi Frank, that was my original plan. Is your meter dash mounted?
     
  13. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Sharky,

    I tend to tape them to where ever I can (handle bars, other instruments etc), so they don't exactly look the best but they work fine.
     

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