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I bought a ZXR250

Discussion in 'Kawasaki 250cc In-line 4's' started by kiffsta, Oct 9, 2014.

  1. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Im using a big arse jump pack, there are plenty of amps there, it really has me stumped.

    Just tried a small amount of start ya bastard, still no dice
     
  2. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    I got her running... :thumb_ups:
     
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  3. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    What was it mate?
     
  4. Tim_

    Tim_ resident nutcase Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    to easy mate.... let me know what you need..
     
  5. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Carbs, the mixture screws were way out at 3.5 turns , pilots were blocked,
     
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  6. zixxer

    zixxer Well-Known Member

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    valve clearances/ compression?
     
  7. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    When I got the ZXR250 home, I hooked up the jumper leads and poured some fresh fuel in, she did not want to start, didn't even sound like it wanted to fire. So yesterday, panels came off, tank off, carbs off. The carbs were clean and in good nick, but the mixture screws were 3.5 turns out, I reset them to 2 and 3/4 turns , still wouldn't start. 4 new plugs went in, all leads tested to make sure they were working, still wouldn't start. Checked the phases on the stator, nothing was going to ground, checked the reg and she was crispy, the harness going to the reg had seen better days, I cleaned the connections as best I could, still wouldn't fire. I was starting to get the shits, next step was pulling the cam cover off and checking the valves. She did fire for me yesterday, but I was convinced the carbs were a dogs breakfast.


    As @Tim_ is parting his ZXR250 out, so he dropped in today and bought his carbs and a reg over, we put the carbs on and she still wouldn't start with a known good set of carbies, we also replaced the reg, still would not start.

    My battery was flat, so I hooked up the bike to my trusty Corolla using some jumper leads, we cranked and cranked it, I tried start ya bastard, still wouldn't go. We cranked it with choke, no choke, a little throttle, no throttle and nothing, I blocked the return line to the petcock and it sputtered, so then we kept cranking and she finally started and we got it to hold a decent idle. She was definitely blowing a lot of smoke, even after running for 20 mins, I then refitted the airbox and tank and she started every time. Once she warmed up, Tim pulled plug 4, and filled the barrel with 3 bond engine conditioner, we waited 5 mins, put the plug back in. We then started it and it blew **** tins of smoke then settled down. Tim did the same on all the other 3 plugs and now she runs really well, and is no longer Smokey .


    This 3 bond stuff cleans up the cylinder head, I have let her cool right down and she starts easily with choke so I am a happy chappy.
    So what was the problem beats me, I still think it was tight valves, but after running some 3 bond through it, she has come good. Next step is some new oil and a filter, do the fork seals and get her on the road. I took her for a quick ride up the street, she pulls like a 14 year old watching SBS :)

    I will post a vid later of her running, she has a slight hesitation between 6000 -8000 rpms which I am confident is a known ZXR issue (failed carb seal) I might order a litetek kit to be on a safe side.

    Thanks for your help @Tim

    Chris
     
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  8. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    That's interesting with the 3bond .... I know that's its real purpose in life but wondered if anyone had actually shot it straight into the motor or down the inlets

    Might try it on the Fizzer
     
  9. Tim_

    Tim_ resident nutcase Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Thats what the community is here for mate... was just keen to get you back on a bike.. and by the looks of it we succeeded..... Still can not believe the size differences between the 2 bikes..
     
  10. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    looks as if I spoke too soon, she does not want to start now.. AARRGGHHHHHHhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

    Time to do the valve clearances
     
  11. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    What about plan "B"................ RS250 :thumb_ups:
     
  12. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    RS250 is coming along fine, master cylinder is due here Tuesday
     
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  13. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Compression test?
     
  14. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    I'll go you halves in a shim kit if you want? I have 2 engines id like to do the clearances in
     
  15. Tim_

    Tim_ resident nutcase Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    if its not the valves the only other thing i can think of is that wiring loom with bad earth
     
  16. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Maybe, you heard it trying to start, it didnt like there was lots of compression, yet once its started it ran like a top, Im thinking its top end... time to play
     
  17. Tim_

    Tim_ resident nutcase Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Yeah this is getting to the area I know little about... true it didnt sound like a stroke note when it was attempting to start... but if it is compression why did it keep starting so easily once it was warm and when we cleaned the carbon of the piston?
     
  18. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    I would have a bet at valve clearances.
     
  19. MashtX

    MashtX Well-Known Member

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    A problem that I ran into with my project FZR 400 was the coils - would run, intermitently and had lots of starting issues - turns out I had f****d coils.

    Just a thought.
     
  20. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    okay so its weirder, I can now replicate the issues

    If the bike is cold I can crank and crank and nothing, after about 10 mins of cranking ( im sorry starter motor) it will eventually fire, this is using choke and heaps of throttle. My initial thoughts were valves were tight as this emulates that problem, however once the bike is running and warmed up, you blip the throttle and she hangs at 4000rpm for a bit before coming down, this gets better and better as the bike warms up to a point where you are at operating temp and its blips nicely. So I think @Tim may be onto something, maybe the carbs boots are shagged and she is taking in way too much air, I tried spraying some ether near the boots when it warming up and she jumped up quite a bit, I think went and grabbed my phone and took a video, by now the bike is half way on the temp gauge and a small spray does get a 300 -400 rev increase on each pot. Could it be as simple as cracked carb boots at the air mix screws were adjusted by the PO to compensate for it ? When I took the air mix screws back down to 2 3/4 turns I have made it worse... :headbang:


     

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