Hi, I am looking for help in identifying what is going on ... She did the same thing about a month ago, I cleaned out the carby and adjusted the float, which seemed to resolve the immediate issue. However I noticed on the road in top gear, getting the bike to a hundred was hard work ahaha ... Giving the age of the bike 1980 I believed it to be just tired ... Any way in the last week I changed the front sprocket and again checked the float level in the carby, removed the top cover and sealed it off due to oil leaks. Changing the front sprocket was a definite improvement on power and reaching 100 km hr no longer an issue. I could comfortably maintain sped and have a little extra if I needed. Now with that information today I took her out for a run and she lost all power and died within 10 minutes on the road ... I waited a few minutes she fired up again and off I went ... Again she lost all power and died.. I did notice the blinkers were no longer working and the headlight was noticeably dimmer. I am thinking an electrical issue.... Where do I start CDI, coil, alternator, regulator .... Please any knowledge or help would be very much appreciated ... I am thinking that maybe this could have been the issue from the beginning... Sorry I'm being long winded lol ... I just want to get her back on the road Cheers all Dee Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Inspect all connection points for the lights (headlights, blinkers, tail lights) for heat damage. Old wiring will have extra resistance, increasing heat, and on it goes. Vicious cycle etc. Any crusty wiring that is hard to bend has to be replaced. At this stage you would do well to rewire the whole wiring loom and replace all the plugs going to high load areas (headlights and tail lights would be my main concern due to confined space and heat output)
Sounds electrical and heat related Definately go over the wiring and connectors and the earth points Start with this basic test then maybe test the CDI , coils and RR http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/how-do-i-test-my-12-volt-battery-and-charging-system.1794/
Thanks for your help everyone I have done a quick once over on the electrics and can't find anything melted, as the battery was drained when she collapsed yesterday lol .. I have put it on charge and everything is working... I will proceed to check the earths and look for any damage .. But I think Greylmport you are on the mark, thank you for the link I appreciate your help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
R/R, faulty earth, batt neg to earth..last in line check battery at full load across terminals..(headlight on etc) if less than specs then suspect battery..if ok then suspect loom, bridge to earth and to + with new wiring at specified load to solenoid..should indicate where problem lies, off what you've said battery is fine..suspect loom or R/R, wiring (loom) issue in that order, cheers si
Thank you once again your advice is muchly appreciated .... I will post my findings as I go, any thing else you may think of along the way is most welcomed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yep, this is exactly what i had happen to me years ago on an R6. Stator had burnt out, which burnt the rectifier =no charge to the battery / electric fuel pump. Definitely check the voltage getting delivered to the battery first with a multimeter, only takes a few minutes. Should be at least 13v - 13.5v. If its less than that and if you can see the voltage level scaling down when its running your definitely not getting a charge. Good luck mate.
Well I went over all the connections today and double checked the main earths ... Tidied them all up, charged the battery so tomorrow morning I will find out if it's holding charge .... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well I thought bigger it just went out and hooked up the tank and started it ... The battery was taking charge started out at 12.8 and got to 13.03 before it stopped ... Idled up and down between 1200 rpm and 2000 rpm for about 45 seconds and stopped ... Did that three times and pretty much same scenario ... But the battery is taking charge at least lol .... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Possible cheap solution - check the fuses first! Buy a handful of each type from Jaycar or Supercheap and see if they help. If they blow again, at least you'll have spares on hand already. Had similar problems with mine on the way back to Newcastle from Tamworth. Turned out I had blown some fuses. Luckily I had spares on board! They'd blown again by the time I got home to Canberra from Newcastle, so I've been trying to track down the root cause as I suspect the r/r and/or stator coil might be cactus. As most all my spares are from non-running bikes I've been looking into new aftermarket replacements and NOS options. I will be getting back onto it over the next few weeks after I rebuild the cylinder head so will let you know what I find...
Hey TechHead Fred thank you I would appreciate that ... I currently have it stripped down to bare wiring chasing the power wire checking for anything that could be a contributor and ruling out any wiring shorts ... I have found a couple small things, the black wire with the red band from the ignition, has melted on the outer plastic slip.... And my positive battery terminal which looked fine and felt fine had actually snapped under the plastic guard, and came apart in my hand this morning as I was disconnecting the battery ... Ahahaha .. Could it really be that simple ... No I doubt it .. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I finally had the time on Sunday to put my bike back together, after checking all the wiring and connections way back then lol. I replaced the Regulator/Rectifier ... And took her out for a tentative run, and I am thinking it may be ok .. Two days two twenty to thirty km rides and it hasn't missed a beat ... Touch wood lol ... Hope you all have a Great New Year Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
