Another mini-project. $750 for an unregistered 1996 Suzuki Across. It was in pretty good condition and had some work done already so calling it a project seems an overstatement. Previous owner had put in a good battery, removed and cleaned the carbies (along with new seals etc), front and rear brake pads, cleaned fuel tank and put new fuel lines and in-line filters on the bike. Fork seals were leaking on one side and tyres were shot. It started up straight away, ran smooth. I figured it was worth the price and the risk. Got it home and so far I've changed plugs (think they had recently been done by previous owner, so I have spares now) and also replaced oil and filter. Rear tyre replaced and front about to be done (noticed broken fork at pinch point). Was going to take the forks out to do the seals. Now I will find a replacement pair, do the seals in those and then swap them for forks on the bike now Pics are from Gumtree ad
Look's pretty clean and no gravel rash that i can see. No chewed up screw's etc around the instrument's either , so look's like it hasn't been played with. Is it just covered in dust / finger print's over this bike ?. I hope the fork link's that i posted on the other post work's out for you. At'least this way , you can see what you need on your bike and order the lot on one freight bill.
Not sure what problem was with those original pics. Looked dusty but didn't present that way when I checked it over. Might have hade a wipe down. Here is a current pics that show condition a bit better. No major gravel rash, a few small scratches on fairings like it fell over on stand. The timber frame is there ready to support front of bike when I remove front wheel/forks
No offence meant , and i'm far from being a expert , but i'd be making the timber frame a lot stronger. The across model's are pretty heavy and you'll be working the spanner's pretty hard undoing everything that's frozen tight , let alone pulling the front end part's off the triple clamp's. Found these two picture's , the Honda idea is pretty good , but that's up to you. You don't want the bike to drop onto the ground with no front end fitted , it would make a awful mess of that nice fairing you have.
I get the reasoning behind the home made bike stands ..... but a pin type head stem front stand is the only thing I would trust And if removing forks for servicing always loosen top pinch bolts first , then loosen the top cap , then the lower pinch bolts for removal .... and reverse when installing .... u will thank me later
Following threats of being reported to the Royal Society of Automotive Engineers for a half-assed job on the timber frame support, and the possible cancellation of my membership, I decided to reconsider my approach. Here is my alternative
As, the chef's say - here is one I prepared earlier. I made it a few months ago to lift the engine for my ZR-7 project. Didn't think it was tall enough for the Across so tried the timber option. Luckily it was just tall enough.
Success - frame supported with wheel high enough. Wheel out ready for tyre change. Just need new forks to arrive. I will leave old forks in place with support blocks until new ones arrive. A belt and braces approach.
Ask them to replace the valve stems when fitting the new tyres https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/tyre-information.1115/
Update: Front tyre has been swapped and wheel balanced. Then it was a wait for the replacement forks to arrive. They turned up yesterday (good price and fast shipping from Chris at MotoREcycle). Next step is to replace fork seals and dust caps in the replacement forks before installing them. I've removed the right fork to use as a strip down test (and check the fork damper tool I'm about to make works properly). Old fork is middle one
Fork Damper Tool made and works a treat. Youtube and a few forum posts gave me design idea and suggested dimensions. For anyone else needing the specifics: 60cm length of 22mm od tube (3mm wall), cut into 2 pieces, 45cm and 15cm. 16mm hex head bolt (24mm spanner for head) Insert bolt into 45cm piece of tube and weld in place (keep weld clear of hex head) Weld top handle using 15cm piece at other end of 45cm piece. Once I had the fork stripped down enough I was able to place tool in fork to lock damper while I used 8mm impact hex in battery powered 1/2" drive impact driver. Note: I did use 1/2" air impact wrench to loosen allen bolt first. I was hoping it would be enough to loosen bolt without making the tool. Damper kept spinning, so tool needed. Can't be sure battery driver would have been enough without it.
As long as it works for you then it is good... i have never had an issue getting them undone.. I always undo the allen bolt first before I do anything (other than drain the oil) That way they are under tension and it is much less liekly they will spin. But your way works just as well.. probably better
All ready for reassembly. Will do a partial reassembly now, no fork oil in today so the threadlock on bottom bolt/drain plug has overnight to set. Then finish the rest off tomorrow and get then back on the bike.