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Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by GreyImport, Jan 9, 2018.
Did you see my post on FB FZR page?
May as well add the rest of the kit while you're at it
The tail alone would make it look unique especially with the single seat setup
Front end is just like a thousand other bikes and looks like a 'transformer' ... not to my taste
Only thing with that rear fairing is cutting the rear subframe so it can fit
A lot of work has gone into that bodywork - I'm with Grey though, would have been great if it was '98 R1 or I think '01 R6 fairing - they were good looking machines
That '98 R1 tail fairing and light etc conversion is something i'm hoping to do to mine,
just need to find one cheap, or cheaper than aliexpress then start modifying it to suit
That might go nice on the FZX too?
I shouldn't be thinking about this again, however I am...I remember researching some time ago - the 99-02 R6 has a removable rear subframe, which could potentially be adapted/modified, or used as a template to build another one suitable.
Then if you wanted to do a front to suit. R6 or R1 from same generation I believe @maelstrom sourced the front fairing subframe for a reasonable price on aliexpress.
Then you need headlights/tail lights etc etc etc and the costs begin to add up, which was why I tried, unsuccessfully it seems, to stop thinking about this...
My R6 fairing to fit my R4 project is mounted to an R6 front fairing bracket, sourced from China and very cheap. But I fitted twin round headlights and I will be narrowing the profile because the R6 is very wide to suit the standard diamond shaped lights. I am finishing off my steering stem now (as in it is in my lathe chuck as I type) and I will be able to fit the forks, handlebars and make sure that everything is where I want it to be for the fairing. Then I will use it as a plug to make a mould. For the seat I am going to make the sub-frame out of ally for now and make sure that everything fits. The seat (heavily modded R7 unit which will also be used as a plug) should also suit a fizzer but it will most likely need a new/modified sub frame to mount it. I have been trying to buy a fizzer here for a long time so that I can adapt my R4 parts for the 250. The Honda MC22 that I bought last week arrives tomorrow. Will make bits for that too.
Anyone know this brand and its origins ?
Forseti Regulator Rectifier
Forseti seem to have stuff made in china under their name... there are a bunch of big bore kits from forseti but quality is a bit of an unknown.. they are cheap though.. All distributed here by Jap Bike Spares.
Would go with a Shindengen unit from roadstercycle... get the super kit, expensive but it works and is easy to fit.
Yeah i used a Forsetti reg/rect on my uncle's XV250 Virago, it's been good for the last 6,000km'
I used a secondhand R6 one on my FZR
Did u have to change the connecting plug or the mounting holes?
I made up an alloy plate to bolt it the reg/rect, then bolted that to the subrame, think i used 1 original thread on the subrame and other side i bolted it through the inner compartment tray.
I needed to swap the original 4x terminal plug for a 6x terminal plug too, then just swapped the terminal's into the new plug and added a black earth wire with a 6mm ring terminal and ran it to a mounting bolt
Some of the later model R6's use a smaller spade terminal (2.8mm) reg/rect, the plug's and socket's are harder to find and cost around $20 the pair.
This is my FZR250 3LN3 reg/rect conversion, i used a secondhand 2006 R6 Shindengen Regulator/Rectifier SH713AA (35Amp, 420watt max)
I bent up some 2mm ally sheet to use behind the reg/rect as a heatsink and to mount it to the bike.
This reg is a 3 phase open regulator so when the battery doesn't require a lot of charge it cut's the circuit to the stator until it's needed then connect's the circuit again.
The open type reg's are better in the way they work as the regulator isn't trying to shunt the excess energy through to earth when it's not needed, this keep's the regulator/rectifier a lot cooler than the shunt type reg/rect, it's also better for the stator as it's not constantly under load and making a lot of heat.
I upgraded the standard reg/rect wire's for the positive and negative to 8 gauge wire's (also callled 8AWG, 40A)
The 3x AC wire's from the stator go into the back (flat side of the reg/rect) of the R6 reg/rect, and can go in any order left to right.
There is a 3 way joiner plug/socket just near the battery/starter solenoid if you need to extend the 3x stator to reg wire's, it's a simple job if you just unplug it at each end then you can modify it on your work bench
More on Forseti ...
These look flash
Try early R6 or R1 blue dot / gold dot calipers and braided lines