1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Project FZR250 2KR 3HX1 resto-1project

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by BlackBladeDesign, Aug 2, 2018.

  1. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    2,954
    Likes Received:
    1,724
    Trophy Points:
    798
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2016
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Panel Beater, Spray Painter, Custom Fabricator
    Location:
    Adelaide, South Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha's, 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G
    Have you checked the fuel level's in each carby after the fuel pump has filled the fuel bowl's ?
    Turn your ignition switch on and off a few time's till the fuel pump switches off pretty much straight away when you turn the ignition on

    The mixture screw setting's are good enough to get the engine running, it's just a baseline setting to get the bike going, warm it up to normal operating temp's before adjusting them.
    Try them at 2.5 turn's out and see if that makes any difference
     
    • Thanks! Thanks! x 1
  2. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Consistently Inconsistent Premium Member

    Messages:
    72
    Likes Received:
    39
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2018
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Auto Mechanic & Welder
    Location:
    Melbourne, VIC. Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR250 3HX1
    Now it won't spark :headbang:
    And I just fitted the new airbox rubbers!
    Ugh... Here we go:

    - Neither coil is putting out spark with a tester, tried each individual lead, orange and red/white wires to coil get only 0.4 volts, other coil wires gets 10.6 instead of 12.6.
    Neither of the two coils have spark, and they both are good. I checked each individual lead too.

    - The bike turns over, the fuel pump primes then turns off as it should when it's full.
    The servo motor works as it should while turning over, the neutral light works, the clutch switch works, the key switch works, killswitch etc. And im fairly certain my bike doesn't have a kickstand switch either so I think it isn't to do with the controls or switches(both the relays seem to be working too)

    I really dont know what to do here, the plugs are brand new. It ran first shot last week. It's not the first time it has done this though, I have it where it doesn't run for a week and had no spark, then it runs and starts fine for no obvious reason for quite a long time so I initially ignored it.

    The more I look into it the less I'm able to figure out what's wrong, the battery holds around 12.6, I believe it's an old one though. Bloody frustrating.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2018
  3. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    2,954
    Likes Received:
    1,724
    Trophy Points:
    798
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2016
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Panel Beater, Spray Painter, Custom Fabricator
    Location:
    Adelaide, South Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha's, 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G
    How many volt's at the battery when you are cranking it over ?
     
  4. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Consistently Inconsistent Premium Member

    Messages:
    72
    Likes Received:
    39
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2018
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Auto Mechanic & Welder
    Location:
    Melbourne, VIC. Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR250 3HX1
    It drops from 12.6 volts to between 6.9v and 10v depending on how open the exup valve is(more load on the starter I guess) so probably replace the battery before continuing?
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  5. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

    Messages:
    3,479
    Likes Received:
    2,028
    Trophy Points:
    943
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2014
    Location:
    Sydney NSW
    My Bike:
    ZXR250C
    10v is normal, anything below that and the battery needs charging, is worn out, or there is excessive current draw from the starter motor.
     
  6. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

    Messages:
    2,834
    Likes Received:
    2,069
    Trophy Points:
    823
    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2012
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Thailand
    Home Page:
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR400 3TJ1, Honda MC22
    The coils are wired directly to power on one side and TCI for switching on the other. The first thing to check is that you have 12v at the coil. As in + to coil power and - to ground.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  7. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Consistently Inconsistent Premium Member

    Messages:
    72
    Likes Received:
    39
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2018
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Auto Mechanic & Welder
    Location:
    Melbourne, VIC. Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR250 3HX1
    Gonna get a new battery tomorrow and see how It goes. The one in it is full of fluid now(to the line) but was pretty low when I first got it.

    Changing the subject a bit, but does anyone do replicas for the 3HX1 black/grey(urushi black?) fairings? I looked up a few on aliexpress, eBay etc but could only find the white/red combos or blue ones. I saw a manufacturer that advertised that they made it in that colour but they said they didn't after I messaged them about it.

    Pic for reference.

    images.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2018
  8. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    2,954
    Likes Received:
    1,724
    Trophy Points:
    798
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2016
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Panel Beater, Spray Painter, Custom Fabricator
    Location:
    Adelaide, South Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha's, 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G
    • Like Like x 1
  9. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Consistently Inconsistent Premium Member

    Messages:
    72
    Likes Received:
    39
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2018
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Auto Mechanic & Welder
    Location:
    Melbourne, VIC. Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR250 3HX1
    No spark, starter is fine though with a new cable.

    New battery, the circuit breaker is fine, both the coils are getting power. The ground have all been clean and everything is working electrically besides the ignition system.

    Could the cdi not be grounding the coils? I've heard that they have transistors that crack and fail.
     
  10. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    2,954
    Likes Received:
    1,724
    Trophy Points:
    798
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2016
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Panel Beater, Spray Painter, Custom Fabricator
    Location:
    Adelaide, South Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha's, 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G
    As you press the stater button the engine will turn over and the TCI will ground the coil's momentarily to make each coil fire.
    Is there an earth wire going from your frame to the engine, and is it going to clean bare metal ?

    If you have a multimeter you can use it to check out your TCI, compare the readings against these

    [​IMG]
     
    • Like Like x 1
  11. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Consistently Inconsistent Premium Member

    Messages:
    72
    Likes Received:
    39
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2018
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Auto Mechanic & Welder
    Location:
    Melbourne, VIC. Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR250 3HX1
    Yeah I've got one cable from the battery ground to the frame, one to the motor from the battery, then I put one from the motor to the frame. They're all clean and working.

    It's a really annoying problem because earlier today it did spark finally(no idea why), then it just stopped sparking all together again even with a tester(like it's done numerous times).
    Then I tried two different batteries that were fully charged and it still had no spark.

    I replaced the stator/generator cover along with what I assume is the pickup coil with one from a wreckers(old cover had a crack through it) and it changed nothing either. All I keep thinking is the tci.
     
  12. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    2,954
    Likes Received:
    1,724
    Trophy Points:
    798
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2016
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Panel Beater, Spray Painter, Custom Fabricator
    Location:
    Adelaide, South Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha's, 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G
    I think i'd try double checking connection's looking for corrosion or loose connection's.
    Sometime's terminal's open up a little and dont give good contact's, try using a multimeter to follow the connection's and check for continuity.
     
  13. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Consistently Inconsistent Premium Member

    Messages:
    72
    Likes Received:
    39
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2018
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Auto Mechanic & Welder
    Location:
    Melbourne, VIC. Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR250 3HX1
    Running with occasionally flickering lights and taco spikes. Rectifier is running real hot too.

    I replaced the tci and that's what got it running, the spark is from each plug is good now though and the bike runs first shot.

    bright bolts of blue make me happy. :thumb_ups:
     
    • Like Like x 1
  14. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    2,954
    Likes Received:
    1,724
    Trophy Points:
    798
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2016
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Panel Beater, Spray Painter, Custom Fabricator
    Location:
    Adelaide, South Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha's, 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G
    Might be time to upgrade your reg/rect could use an R6 one, or the R1 reg/rect
    Stay away from the cheap china one's if you can, anything with YHC written on it.
    And you don't want to cook your TCI and other electric's like tacho etc with a faulty reg/rect.

    I bought a good used Shindengen reg/rect off alow km 08 R6, it's a SH713AA, they're easy to connect up to the FZR's and use a simple plastic automotive 6 pin plug
     
    • Like Like x 2
  15. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Consistently Inconsistent Premium Member

    Messages:
    72
    Likes Received:
    39
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2018
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Auto Mechanic & Welder
    Location:
    Melbourne, VIC. Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR250 3HX1
    Seems like the best option to me, just got another tci and it's working well so that would suck big time if I cooked it.

    I am wondering though if there is a way o could put an inline fuse to the tci to prevent it from being being toasted. I could even wire up an actual Blade fuse box and put it in the pillion storage area to separate some circuits and protect them. Would be good to know what sort of amps the tci fuse(es) should be rated for Thoughts?
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2018
  16. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    2,954
    Likes Received:
    1,724
    Trophy Points:
    798
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2016
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Panel Beater, Spray Painter, Custom Fabricator
    Location:
    Adelaide, South Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha's, 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G
    Wiring up a fuse to the TCI will protect the wiring etc if the TCI pull's too many amp's, it wont limit the voltage to it, you need a voltage regulator/rectifier that work's properly.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  17. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Consistently Inconsistent Premium Member

    Messages:
    72
    Likes Received:
    39
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2018
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Auto Mechanic & Welder
    Location:
    Melbourne, VIC. Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR250 3HX1
    IMAG0190.jpg
    (SH569A-12)This is the one currently on the bike that's running hot, I sanded down the mounting point as it was painted over by the previous owner. And the old rectifier that was on before was this(SH569-12): IMAG0192.jpg
    I'm gonna take off the old connector and replace it as the three brown wires have melted together and you can see the copper inside. Just to clarify this loom didn't come with this bike I got it later on, so whatever caused the wires to burn initially may not necessarily still be a problem, but obviously they're problematic. I taped them up individually but I don't think it'll make a difference. Ill see how it goes tomorrow morning when I fix it up properly
     
    • Like Like x 1
  18. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Consistently Inconsistent Premium Member

    Messages:
    72
    Likes Received:
    39
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2018
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Auto Mechanic & Welder
    Location:
    Melbourne, VIC. Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR250 3HX1
    received_560487714365309.jpeg
    Found a front fairing + mirrors.
    Ordered a fairing kit from aliexpress too.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  19. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

    Messages:
    2,954
    Likes Received:
    1,724
    Trophy Points:
    798
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2016
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Panel Beater, Spray Painter, Custom Fabricator
    Location:
    Adelaide, South Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha's, 1990 FZR250R 3LN3 , 1986 XT250TS 57R , 1984 IT200L 43G
    • Like Like x 2
  20. BlackBladeDesign

    BlackBladeDesign Consistently Inconsistent Premium Member

    Messages:
    72
    Likes Received:
    39
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2018
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Auto Mechanic & Welder
    Location:
    Melbourne, VIC. Australia
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR250 3HX1
    Battery charging, Rectifier working. Checked all the suspension properly today, got 275ml of 10w fork oil in the front(im a bigger guy so the extra damper helps)
    Rear shock is in great condition. Got the chain tensioned properly and took it for a spin on road with a uvp permit. It's a punchy little bike till I hit 10k rpm, then it dies off(works till redline in neutral with no load so Im guessing it's the fuel/air mixture)

    What else can I adjust in the carb beside the pilot screw, that's basically just for idle right?
    Does the main jet or anything have adjustments? what do I need & how do I measure the adjustments I make?
    It won't be hard to take the carbs off, I've done it before just to clean it all out and put in new float needles.


    IMAG0232.jpg IMAG0230.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2018

Share This Page