Yeah use the dielectric grease on every electrical connection you can Do you have an earth lead running from negative to the frame/engine, you can earth the reg/rect there. If not it'd be a good idea to add one It's interesting to see they mention that reg/rect is only for Lithium Ion battery's, and is not suitable for lead acid Must be a modified FH019 type mosfet reg/rect https://rmstator.com/en_us/lithium-...for-atv-utv-motorcycle-snowmobile-pwc-scooter
Oooook. so while Maelstrom has the glacially slow project he may still be passing this project at speed. So I got very busy with my new job and very unmotivated with my carbs. So I passed the project onto a race bike mechanic friend who said it would be nice to work on carbs for a bit of a change and nostalgia (he turned out to be wrong). So after much fafing about and the carbs off and on numerous times he had the carbs sorted and the cold start working nice. That was until he thought he would just pop out one morning and give it a start. and it ran on 3 cylinders. which it does often but not the same cylinders, in fact not even the same coil sometimes its no1 sometimes 2 or 3 etc. He says that mechanically the engine is fine, in good condition even, good compression, all timed. So he thinks its an electrical issue. does this sound like maybe a CDI issue? if so does anyone in NZ have one for sale? He said it could possible be the coil pick ups. Has anybody come across this before?
May have nothing to do with your issue. I am of the opinion that 250cc fours: are always too rich, a problem made worse by owners who then make them richer need to be flogged will foul spark plugs at the drop of a hat As for your friends diagnosis. Always good to have a spare TCI (it is not CDI, CDI tries to kill you if you get too close) unit for when yours goes to hell. My67xr wrote a good thread about repairing TCI units Coil pick up (there is only one) highly unlikely
If it's a failing transistor in the TCI - they're a commonly available $5 part - replace both The box itself can be eased open and you have to remove some insulation/vibration silicone - it's actually a very easy job
HAH - Fizzer Carbs, if you wake in fright in the middle of the night thinking could it be possibly...fuel height...you know you're an owner But seriously, you just need to be thorough
Hmm ok. I mean the carbs were thoroughly clean with keyster kits and litetek seals and an ultrasonic cleaner and threebond. this was however a long time ago now. I mean he does seem like a pretty competent mechanic an surely he would pick up fouled plugs. however I do remember him saying something about him setting it rich? I will see if I can find my67xrs thread and look there for a start. a small problem is the bike is in a different town currently so I will call the guy tomorrow and have a chat.
or if anyone knows how to get to that thread and could point me in that direction that would be grand.
Coils will swapover (leads reach OK) with the yellow/white LV plugs. I run my 3LN6 lean to compensate for slow weep, only 1 is bad. Levels spot-on, bung seal done, jetblock gasket&slide housing o-ring etc. Absolutely stumped, but enjoying just riding it with revs from 7-12thou thru the hills. Improving my cornering cw R1150R coz I no longer rely on instant torque to pull out.
ok guys been a long time but updates are coming. I have the bike back and it runs the best it ever has (Mechanic spent a long time on the carbs). The settings seem to be rich but I took it for a strop on a private road I have access to and it ran really well, actually quite impressive for a 250cc. I am currently getting some new brake lines made up for it as who knows how old the old lines are and i've rebuilt the calipers so I may aswell carry on up the line. Does anyone know where I could source a rebuild kit for the master? and possibly a link to a thread of someone rebuilding one? I am taking the bike to a friend of mine in a couple of weeks who is a plastic welder so we can fit up all the plastics and make sure the fitment is spot on. Then I can repaint them and do a final fit. Then its just a couple of small things - indicators, battery box rec mount then off for a re-vin.
For a master kit, try Don Wooley at Pitlane (in the country - back of Darfield ) He's been left with a big assortment of kits and may well have what you want. ph 03 318 7924 txt 021 0881 5414 FWIW, I've got 2 spare EXUP ignitor baxes I can't use.
Hi guys, Heaps has been happening, some good, some bad, some outright tragic. I will find some time to post some pictures and write up a bit of a story to fill you all in. But essentially I have done a couple of cheeky rode rides and once our lockdown is lifted I will book the bike in for a re-vin and hopefully the bike will be back on the road in time for the postponed coldkiwi. one thing I am currently confused about is that fuel line comes in 6mm and 8mm but the bards on my fuel system are 7mm, are they designed for 8mm to slip over and be clamped down?, or is it more of a press fit for 6mm line? Its hard to tell from the lines on the bike as they are very old and I am surprised they don't leak fuel currently. once again any help appreciated.
so after my last post some time ago, I managed to get all my plastics fixed by an ex professional plastic welder. Then after a 3 hour drive home only about 10minutes from home one of the straps snapped and the bike fell over on the trailer and smashed my plastics up.
Also I did the R6 shock conversion. make my own bushes. The trusty myford. The shock felt way better. but I am 6'2" and into triple figure in the kg division so nobody said this would happen. I will pull the shock out and do some measuring. I'm hope I can offset the top of the shock by using unequal bushes. Also I was using the standard dog bones so I think I will make some shorter ones.
https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/fzr250-3ln-fuel-system.1804/ I think your R6 shock settings might need a little stiffening up if its wacking the chain https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/fzr-r6r-rear-shock-conversion.8813/ https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/yamaha-2006-yzf-r6-rear-shock-absorber-adjustment.274/