FZR 3LN3 won't start

Of course you want to have a good battery in there to really do good diagnostics. Which means that you have to figure out a lot of information in a short time or many recharges of the battery. You could jumper it off a car battery, but.... That's up to you.

Personally I'd check the leads themselves for corossion and a snug fit. The rubber boot should come off the wire by twisting it and pulling a little. If it comes right off, you'll need to trim off a little bit of the lead and then screw the cap back into the lead. Make sure it is snug. Then check for spark by grounding the plug (NEW) on the engine. Make sure the battery has a good charge on it.

(Funny how things just pop into your head at the strangest times.)

Also check and clean all the fuses, and all the connections that you can find. Take them apart and give them a shot of WD-40. No, really all of them. Especially the ones at the Battery, CDI, Ignition, Start Button, Kill Switch (Run/Stop), and Gounds (Earth).

Hey, give it a shot, only cotst you time and a can of WD-40. That is unless you do not have a battery charger.

sidenote - filters and fluids in good condition?

(And those things have no paticular order)

If you have the time and inclination, you can also check and clean the carbs. The fuel has been sitting for 5 weeks, only to be used just recently. May need to have the petro ran though/replaced.

Let us know how you get on....

hey Boz, lets see you add that into your "How to" section... <!-- s:roll: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_roll.gif" alt=":roll:" title="Rolling LoL" /><!-- s:roll: --> Sorry guys... thoughts are just jumping around tonight.

 

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my fzr runs smoothly and starts quick since i have it. it is only been a week since i noticed when i turn switch and ignition on, the NEUTRAL (green) light shut off. it looks like it is shorted. i took the wire from the battery and take it back, the light turns on. but still, it will turn off as i try to start the bike. when the green light is on (knowing that the batt has good power), it can go by PUSH-START. i'll juz ask if some one knows what is the problem?? seems to be electrical probs?? what are the factors that can affect this king of error / problem? thanx bros!!!


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what are the causes of hard starting?? is it fine going with the sae20/50 oil?? tnx in advance. . . <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: --> <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: --> <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: --> <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: --> <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: --> <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: --> <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: -->

 

Give me the weekend and hopefully I will have put that into a readable 'battery diagnostics' how to... maybe... <!-- s:shock: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_eek.gif" alt=":shock:" title="Shocked" /><!-- s:shock: -->

 

Right, Your nearly home and dry. From here on in can only be two things and the backfire leads me to think its the other.
Put it back together noting the state of the plugs, hopefully nice and dry. Making sure the fuel is on and the pump is priming, pull the choke on just for good measure, Wind the motor over for 10/15 seconds.
Then take out a spark plug or two. If they are dry it's a fueling issue.
If they are wet, then the ignition has fallen out of time, Hence the backfire.
This once happened to me because the woodruff key holding the CDI magnito in time with crankshaft had sheared allowing it to slip a few degrees. Because your getting a spark dont mean its in the right place.
Another tip for eliminating fueling problems is to pour a cap full of petrol down each carb then trying to start it, if everything else is in order it will, be it briefly,run. I used to have a KTM 500 that WOULD NOT start unless I removed the plug and poured in a cap full.

 

When I say "cap full", I'm talking 10/15 millilitres. NOT the cap off your can of WD-40!!!

 

DOH!

 

Be careful when doing **** like poring petrol into the engine, things can go wrong very quickly. I have started my bike with aerostart once before. Just take the airbox off and spray it down the carbies, once you start cranking the engine the little slides will open up.

 

1. Drain the fuel, put new fuel in it.
2. Try to push start it!

Make sure the bike has been in the sun for a while
Put the bike in 2nd gear (yes second)
Hold the clutch in
Run along side the bike till you get as fast as you can
Jump on and at the same time let out the clutch and hit start, hold the start if you need to.

You can do this on flat ground, just takes more effort, best chance is to do it down hill.

 

MMmmmm, O.K. Why leave it in the sun??
Jump on and at the same time let out the clutch and hit start, hold the start if you need to.
En-gauging the starter motor whilst the engine is turning will only hurt it.
I agree with the change of fuel though.

 

Leave it in the sun because cold-starting is a bitch. I had no choke a while back and had to push start it every morning. if i left it outside it would only be harder to start. If you leave it in the sun it will at least it wont be freezing cold and will be easier to start.

If the engine doesnt turn over naturally give it the start button, i've done it many times without a problem.

 

Hi there, i just got my fzr250 3ln. all was running fine. went for rides. all that. went for a long ride last night. and when i just got back. the bike wont start. flooded apparently. anyways. my question is. when i bought the bike.. the previous owner told me he always use premium petrol.. when i got the bike. i used up the petrol and then when i filled up. i used normal unleaded.. would this cause flooding?

 

No.

Turn the fuel tap off when not riding it - that will stop all flooding. And premium isn't really worth it. Old carbied unleaded engines are designed for very low-knock-rated fuel. Australia has a great octane rating for 'standard' fuels - In America premium is rated at 93. It's also proven that premium fuel burns just as fast as regular - this is because just as much fuel is added to the pistons per shot. So.. yeah. Premium isn't what it's cracked up to be.

 

I c I c. Thanks for the reply. . Can i ask? How did i flood the engine all of the sudden? i was just riding normally.and only went top speed of 85km/h so i wasnt thrashing it.

 

Ok, here is the deal with petrol. It comes in three flavors, 98ron (fancy stuff with all the additives), 95ron (premium unleaded) and 95ron (standard unleaded).

Now lets get one thing straight, the higher the octane rating the slower the fuel will burn and the more resistant to detonation it will be, this will channge when mixed with ethanol.

Forget the burning just for now. Detonation or pinging or knocking is bad, it is when the fuel starts to burn by itself before the spark plug fires, and engine damage will ensue. Things that cause petrol to detonate are high compression ratios and things like carbon that may have built up over time that become red hot.

Now to the burning. Your bike will need to be tuned to use a certain fuel. If the previous owner had it tuned to premium you should use it too. If you use other fuels you bike won’t run as efficiently as with the correct fuel. In some bikes swapping down octane ratings can cause detonation, as the fizzer doesn’t exactly have what you would call a low compression engine.

I have my bike tuned to 95ron fuel and don’t have any troubles.

You say you went for a 'long ride' this time. How long is long? You may have just got the bike warmed up. People often complain about the bike not staring once it is hot. Float height are usually to blame for that. If it isn’t related to heat you may want to check if you are blowing any black smoke.

 

Thanks for your reply.
I was not blowing black smoke. a long ride as in. umm.. well.. non stop 45 min ride? it wasnt starting and i tried ti jump start it. but i was in 1st. and my friend told me to jump it in 2nd. ( learnt something new). got it fired up. wont idle and just dies. so i put the choke on. did the same. and it works fine. let it warm up. all that. put the choke down. and it dies.. so what i did was put the idle SLIGHTLY higher. and its fine now~ MIGHT have been the idle was too low beforehand? well. i havnt riding around to test it out yet coz it looks like it will rain anytime now. thanks for your help anyways. and yes people here are very helpful. i will be comming back to this furm to read some more for basic maintenence. also a small question.
i have the 3ln model 1992.
what engine oil should i buy and use.
and what about chain lub?
thanks.
Ken

 

I use full synthetic 15w50 engine oil and just a cheap can of castrol chain lube. All chain lube will do the job as long as it is applied regularly, just with varying amounts of fling. I can’t see the point in buying fancy stuff that doesn’t fling, bike gets dirty anyway and you still need to clean it off the chain every now and then.

 

so using " full synthetic 15w50 engine oil " in my fzr should b fine? i really dun have a clue. does ALL fzrs use this oil? and even how do i check what oil i shoudl use?