Electrical issue (ignition?)

Sounds allot like your 2 week old battery is a dud, check electrolyte levels, charge it and then get the multimeter onto it and report back.

 

The multimeter will be able to tell you if the battery if screwed or not, see if you can get you hands on one. If the battery was good and working right two weeks ago I would be looking to the alternator, and regulator rectifier. The clutch start thing is a bit weird though.

 

Get a hold of a digital multimeter. There are cheap ones around new for less than $20 and are reasonably accurate. I am sure Supercheap, Repco and Autobarn sell them.

Check the battery voltage with the engine running and above 3000rpm and you should see 13.5 to 14.5 volts dropping to 12.5 - 13volts when idling. This indicates that your battery is charged and alternator and R/R is working ok.

If the battery drops below 12 volts with lights on when idling or engine stopped, then your battery is not charged.

I will check my battery volts while cranking (the engine) and let you know in a further post.

DAVE

 

you really do need a multimeter to find electrical problems. Go to dick smiths or similar and get a cheapy.
Try this link http://www.electrexusa.com/Images/fault_finding.pdf
Its a flow chart for finding the source of the problem - but keep in mind its not aimed at an fzr250, so some of the quoted voltages are higher than you'll get. It certainly helped me with a similar problem I had a year or so ago.
Also, if the battery is really flat, even roll starting the bike may not work (as I found out). The electrical system needs at least some battery backup to spark the plugs at low revs - or you may get it started, but every time you idle, it will cut out as the spark dies out. Thats my theory, anyway.
I know that doesn't explain much when you believe your battery was fully charged. <!-- s:???: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_confused.gif" alt=":???:" title="Confused" /><!-- s:???: -->

 

I just checked my battery volts and it is sitting at 12.8volts and it dropped off to 12.2 when I turned the headlights on (engine not running).

The cranking volts was around 10 volts so I think my battery is going off. Started almost straight away though. It got up to 13.8volts at 3000rpm and at idle it dropped back to 11.8 (lights were on).

Also if you were driving slow and had the extra load of the radiator fan running as well, that would really drag some extra 6 or so amps.

I will check with another battery tomorrow if you would like?

DAVE

 

It was asked, but you didn't reply, what is the acid level in the battery? can you check it, and morover can you add to it? If you can add to it, top it off with "Distilled Water". Recharge.

If you cannot check it or cannot add to it, think about a new battery. And yes, batteries can die in 2 weeks, even if they are new. They can also last for upwards of 10 years too.

 

Take the battery out and put it on a flat surface. If its like the ones i've had the plastic is transparent and the fluid should be visible - should be at the upper level of the fill line. To top up, take off the caps and fill with distilled water.
From the results you gave, i would say the charging system is working (13 - 13.5V at 4k rpm is just ok) but the other readings are LOW. Sounds like your car fuel pump and maybe the headlights are drawing too much charge (reading at idle of 11.9V is too low, battery is being drained). With the bike OFF, battery should be holding around 12.8V - otherwise its no good. (or needs topping up and charging as fzrdude said).

 

Here lies a problem - a fully charged battery is 13.2 volts. If your voltage does not go to, or above, 13.2 volts it will never get fully charged. It needs to go higher to get some effective charge current to counteract all the times you're sitting at traffic lights draining the battery.

Does the voltage rise above 12.5volts when you rev harder - ie 60k in 6th gear ~=5500rpm, or even more revs, and what about the volts when the fuel pump is disconnected? It will run for a few minutes without it to do a test.

If voltage goes higher when you rev harder (lights on)then maybe there is too much current being drawn, or the magnets are weak in your alternator.

The difference in current for a pair of 35w vs 55w lamps is about 3 amps and IF your fuel pump is drawing more as well, it may be that it is just all too much for the charging circuit.

DAVE

 

PM Sent <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt="" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s -->

 

Yes, a novice should be able to install a fuel pump - as long as you don't mind getting a little dirty.

As for disconnecting it, if it's just to test for ther reduced loading... i'd say it's honestly negligable. Once the fuel pump has primed at the start it doesn't even really kick over until you crank the throttle open and get above ~9k rpm.

If you do wish to disconnect it to just test the electrics, it 'should' be alright to just disconnect it and leave it in there - in which case you just need to unclip the plug. 2 wires going into a loom, disconnect.

 

Can you unplug the wiring that goes to the pump? This is a stock 3ln fuel pump. Only problem you might face is mounting the bracket or changing the connector on the wiring, and that is all very straight forward.