Not 100% sure what the go is because I haven't had to deal with it before but I think I might have an air leak somewhere. Symptoms: -After getting fuel air really good with the pilot jets I can hear loud wind noises coming from top of the engine under load and when engine braking under load. Can be quite loud under specific RPM or any gear. -When changing spark plugs I noticed small deposits of oil around the threads of the plugs after removing them (all 4) -unusual smell coming from the top of the engine after going for a ride, not really sure what it is though, coil be oil or it could be something else, it smells a bit like burnt plastic but there is no damaged wires anywhere and I recently checked everything in my loom with a multi meter and everything is good -valves started ticking very loud on start up after fuel additive for a while but not so much any more -I am making a lot of power, but the better I get it running the more noticeable the unusual sounds are -I have checked all hoses and carb boots and carb seals and everything is okay there -In the noise I could almost swear I can hear the spark of the spark plug firing I have a sneaking suspicion it may be an engine gasket or exhaust headers not being sealed properly maybe? Really not sure, any help in the right direction would be great. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- (side note), previous battery that was reading 17v packed it in, it wasnt reg/rec that is showing correct with multimeter. Battery has since been replaced and is reading 13v after going for a ride. Battery world manager where I bought replacement battery said those lithium ssb batteries had an extremely high return rate due to problems.
that fuel additive you used would have assisted in cleaning out carbon from your cylinder head , what oil are you running ?
Its funny you mention the cleaning additive, the iridium spark plugs where actually rusted like hell when I pulled them out. It wasn't making the noise this morning so its possible that a day of sitting after my 18 hour full rebuild whatever it was might have sealed again (maybe carb boot or something). The oil was 10-40 racing penrite, but I actually didn't know how that your meant to messure it with the cap unscrewed until later on and when I found out I desperately put some **** 5-40w semi synth in to get it up to the level. I am off to bikebiz parramatta in 20mins to go get 4ltr's of Motul 7100 10-40w to do a proper oil change when I get home.
That being said, I do suspect something isn't right, getting the valve's done would take allot off my mind. But then I have read too many stories where its like people go to all this effort and 95% time it ends up in spec.
it makes it hard to know what the problem might have been because a pretty big list of things was done List: -checked carbs, Nothing is broken, dirty or working incorrectly, carb insulator/boots all good -Re soldered to exact stock spec and back to original condition (finally) -removed 180 speed restriction disc trigger lip inside speedo instrument cluster (better than dodgy resistor bs that some dudes recommend), personally I think tackelling that mechanically is better than messing with the stock wiring due to the cdi wanting very specific ohms from components -replaced front head light bulbs (woo I can see! Probably the first time its been done, had to mod the headlight plastic holder) -replaced spark plugs with stock plugs cr9eh9 at all 8mm gap -rebuilt coils and leads -replaced battery (other one completely died) -chopped some hose lengths to ensured no vacuum leaks (fuel lines, vacuum cables checked cooling hoeses etc) -removed choke completely and check the 4 pins to make sure they were sealed. Yes I know the choke is meant to be used for the cold but I am over it messing with me being partially on or throwing out my fuel air testing. It may go back on at a later date. -adjusted throttle (practically no play because I find I need accuracy in corners that second of working out where it actually starts opening throttle then applying a bit more was annoying so now I know that if it gets pulled slightly that's when it will start going. Also clutch cables hard to get that 100% perfect but I think I am happy with it. -checked complete electrical system specs with volt meter: Pickup 468 ohms max manual says is 420 at 20 degrees (it may have been about 24deg when I checked causing more resistance but would like to get that closer if I can.) Battery: 13v exactly Coils (primary and secondary ohms) coil1 - Primary: 4.7, Secondary (with caps): 24.3k coil2 - Primary: 4.7, Secondary (with caps): 25.7k Order: Yellow and black wires went to the coil that shoots 1 & 4, Blue wire went to coil that shoots 2 & 3 Stator: resistence bettween the 3 yellow wires all gave 2.1 ohms resistence on every combonation Reg/reg ohms: positive pin results: 1: 114.7 2: 116.5 3: 111.5 neg pin results: 1: 121.0 2: 117.5 3: 111.6 No reverse combinations work (With new battery complete ignition to service manual spec, ohms, volts etc all correct) -cleaned bike (except for the wheels haha which I will be doing when I get some degreeser. Secretly I am going to be taking a MASSIVE risk an ordered a pulse rotor from factory pro to advance the timing slightly more than the current 23deg btdc I had some e-mails back and forth with their support team due to being VERY skeptical, but it should be fine with aus 95 petrol and up (going to run 98 anyway but whatever). If it works and pays off then in my mind the 1994 cbrs could get the same rotor and switch to the older cdi without any drama and get a significant gain in power. But yeah when you pull things apart that much then notice strange sounds you really start to wonder where the problem is haha.
Agreed, but I have higher suspicion of my exhaust headers or a gasket elsewhere causing the problem, the valves is the last thing I would want to do. But If it comes down to it then I will do it.
Measuring valve clearances is the easy part. The annoying part is taking the cams out and changing shims.
I have never done it which makes it hard and scares me. I guess its a 2 for one if I replace the gasket at the same time. I would also need to buy some feeler gauges yes? I will try dig up a "how to" and go for it just to get it off the check list.
hmm false alarm apparently, cant get any evidence of the same problem to come back. Also I under estimated how much affect an oil change can have, seems the bike quite likes motul 7100 a fair bit.
I always ran Honda oil (non-synthetic I believe) in my MC22. Ran well, not much noise really for an old engine. I am running PenRite 10W-50 in my 600RR and honestly, I may dump it and put some Honda oil (whatever the manual says) in. I have noticed more noise from the engine and a fuelly smell after riding. Maybe I can think of it as an oil flush as the oil has been in there for only 400 kms or so.
Well to be honest with you I hadn't had my penrite oil in there more than 1500k's myself, my main reason for the oil change was the fact I topped it up with cheap 5-40w. The smell only appeared the second I started running too lean after some trials and tribulations of getting the pilot screws to the right setting. Perhaps a result of the engine getting hotter than its meant to and penrite being like "I'm gonna smell funny now". There is a fair cost difference between the penrite and the motul though. 100$ for 4ltrs hurt. But the motul is the best I have experienced as far as "woah I should change my oil more often" factor is concerned. But that's just me, different for everyone as they say.
cbr250rr Facebook pages has someone saying their race bike is putting out 49 horses with an engine rebuild, fcr flat slides and a hrc cdi
Can anyone find the thread on here, some guy joined up and spent big money on his MC22, full titanium headers and I think it had FCR's too... said it power wheelied but I can't find the thread for the life of me
That's humbug, I watch a lot of what he does on other forums and he has probably "tried" the most out of anyone I've seen. he has had ignitech tunable cdi, full titanium with the fcr carbs. Says he's running hrc cdi but there is no such thing. He has never posted a dyno though and I wouldn't trust the dyno results unless it was stock sprockets. The blue fox's ignition advance is the same as the L and N models cdi. According to a person I was speaking with at factory pro I can advancing the timing with current cdi by using a custom ignition rotor but he said I will need to use 93 American octane which works out to be 98 Ron Australian. Part arrives in a week or so. I just got the main jets right on my setup after going from 105 to 110 then down to 108 which hit the sweet spot with my setup. I'm hoping to pull 46hp but I don't doubt that mc22s can get to 50. Also as far as that 3.3k resistor top speed mod goes that's bullshit because my resistance from orange/blue to white/black is 140k ohms, so there is no way that's right and I lost mad power ever since I did that. I have since removed the lip in the instrument clusters speedo and gone back to stock wiring with every component as close to stock as I can get it so the cdi won't restrict power. But my pickup is 60 ohms off and I bet the cdi knows lol.
