Bringing an Across Back to Life

The other thing I noticed whilst pulling her apart is that I'm fairly certain it's the 1990 model
This may explain the pads not being thick enough as the pads were for the 1991 and up models.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I had previously removed the caliper pistons, cleaned it all, wet & dried them, bled with new fluid.
The pistons are moving quite easily...in fact too easily, they fall out if you unbolt the caliper and remove the brake pad.

Does this suggest that the caliper piston seals have shrunk/hardened/whatever over time and being left out in the weather and are not providing a snug fit for the pistons anymore?

 

I had to pop them out with the compressor on the bleed nipple.
I'll take a pic to show you what I mean about them being loose.
When I installed them after cleaning them out they bled and even held brake pressure via the lever etc.

 

Ok false alarm there Will. It was the internal plastic thing inside the caliper piston which is falling out easy once pads are removed. The pistons themselves are still in there snug and when I pull the brake lever they both slowly push their way out like they should do.
Here's the pictures of what I'm talking about.
And also a picture of the part which is scraping on the rotor. It's the little caliper clip things which are scraping on the rotor.

I had a closer look and from what I can make out the pad closest to the rim has too much meat on it cause it's brand new, this leaves a minute gap between where the caliper bolts to the fork so it's pushing the pad/pistons in further than they should.

 

These are the inner black plastic things I had mistaken. They aren't the piston.


Here you can see where the pad closest to the pistons should go, and the 2 anti-rattle clips or whatever they are which the rotor is rubbing on:


Here's a closeup of the pad closest to pistons and the little clips which are rubbing the rotor:


And here's a pic of the damage the clips are doing to the rotor:


I noticed that when I have the caliper unbolted from the fork I can push the rear pad further toward the rim side and allow a gap so the clips don't scrape.
But when I install the caliper the threads on the fork leg require to push the rear pad section in a bit in order to bolt up the caliper.
This leads me to believe that the rear pad is actually too thick/too much meat...?

 

Here's a video of it finally running:

 

Damn.
Have replaced the head gasket the other week.
Can I take head off then get to valves then use that grinding paste stuff on them to lap them in or is it more involved than that?

 

Ok. Will try that first to burn off any excess I may have lying around from the rebuild.

If still smoking then I assume it's these pieces I'm replacing next?

Part 16: 09289-04001 and maybe this? Part 13: 12933-05C01

 

Ok thanks guys.

Cheers Will, can do re-shimming too. I have one of those hotcams kits for my dirtbike, it and the CBR and Across have the same size. Lucky they are all 250's

$20 Subaru one sounds cheaper than the ThreeBond one. I think that's around the $25-27 mark from Repco/Bursons etc.?

 

Thanks!