Project Brian's 88 MC19 build

Just started, prior to check over I ordered a set of 4 carby insulators some O rings and gaskets.
Think I found out why it was a bit iffy straight away, don't thing the split was great for AFR.

 

MC19 are different to MC22 however.

 

Laughing 29c in Charters Towers today but bike is in Sydney so doing virtual build with ebay and resources from here!

 

Saw your bike on the block today, dont waste any time rebuild then move on. Spotted in on Gummie today.

 

Nearly ready to start on the carb rebuild now, looking into needles for needle jet (not for needle and seat) and found some confusion on two types with no specs on either. Does anyone know what he difference is? I brought a set from xcite suited for MC19 88/89 not sure if they have a different taper or maybe different washer thickness, I guess they would both work but its F..k ing with my head at present why they would have the two part numbers.
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Finally home and back in the shed, wanted to do the float level so designed an 8mm gauge and 30 degree angle checker and printed in PLA on my 3d printer. Worked a treat if anyone wants the stl file I can upload if you have access to a 3D printer. If the the carby on the MC22 is the same width I can modify the gauge to 13mm, the 30 degree gauge is sitting on a bit of 4"x2" so I didn't have to waste plastic with the print.

 

Carby sync today set them all the same as carby three do these values look ok?

 

Thanks was worried the number three I was setting against was a little low.

 

Took the CBR250 MC 19 for a run today needed to move the gear shift actuator down a long way to get it half decent, I know my other bike is RH gear change 1 up and 3 down so it will take a while to get used to Jap bikes again.
Now I will start to go through the mechanicals bit by bit, removed carby YUK fuel "T" has been repaired with araldite have a phot below... my mate calls this sort of activity "Molestation" back in the day we called it bush mechanics!
As I needed to split the carbs I decided to invest an ultrasonic bath a 13-15 Lt one was the smallest that would comfortably fit the four cabs without splitting.
Worked a treat with Chemtech CT18 neutral mixed detergents from Repco, photo below after about 30mins.
Managed to mess with the araldite with the "hot spanner" then a gentle touch of the Dremel.

 

What a pain needed to replace all rubber fuel hoses, they looked original and didnt look perrished however glad two of them split in the workshop while I was syncronising the carbs not out on a run, when the pump outlet one let go it pissed petrol out everywhere. Now all replaced but without the sheaf around the outside, I imaged it was to insulate against heat but I will see how it goes.

 

Still following the petrol trail, thought I might as well do everything while the tank was off. I washed the tank out when I got it and noticed a rattle when shaking so I thought I'd look at that as well. Another anoyance was the fact that when I turned the tap to off it still leaked. I put the borescope into the tank and scored a few big lumps of some sort or filler which I removed. Another problem was the leaking tap in off position. I removed the tap and replaced the tripple O ring (ex Xcite) it still leaked so split the tap and all was revealed the ruber seal was stuffed. Now testing TPU to see if its stable in petrol and will 3D print a new gasket.
In the photo you can see how the rubber is broken away between the off position and petrol feed hole. You will need to drill out and the rivets and tap for two screws but pretty simple job. I found a kit in the UK for 23 pounds then freight on top with screws and 4 hole gasket. But it should only cost me 10 cents worth of 3D printer filament and I already have screws and tap. Will keep you posted as I know a few have complained that every time you remove the tank petrol leaks out everywhere. if the TPU holds up I can print up a batch of seals for personal use or give you the printer files.