Just a quick one. I got my bike back from the mechanic and went for a ride. He told me it doesnt have an air filter in it (no shops open on sunday). It doesnt really want to rev past 10rpm, but before then it pulls fine. Is this normal if you dont have an airfilter? also, which would you guys recommend? k&n,unifilter, stock? Another thing, i was riding and i stalled it acouple times.. and this killed my battery (i was abit tight and bought the cheapest thing i could find, which i am now thinking was a bad idea). Lucky stalled it outside my house! I charged up the battery for 5hours and went for a ride. It was fine for about 30mins and when i parked it, it didnt want to turn on anymore. My mate jump started it and it was fine until i stalled it on the lights going home. After that one not even a jump start would start the bike so i rolled it home.. any ideas guys? The mechanic replaced the rectifier and checked the alternator. could a cheap battery (fully charged mind you) get drained that easy after acouple stalls? also, locked up the back on my first ride at about 60ish.. i dont know about you but i dont like the back brakes anymore.. they gave way tooo easy (and my tyres arnt bold or anything).. seems this isnt really a quick one. thanks anyways boys
Lack of air filter may cause the bike to run leaner than usual. If too lean it could potentially cause a loss of power and therefore the bike may not rev past 10 000. Possible I guess, though I wouldn't have thought that was the problem. As for battery - even a brand new cheap battery should work for the first while. When riding - are you in stop/go or constant? This may cause the battery not to be recharging properly. I have been told that to recharge a battery after starting you really need to ride it consistently for at least 20 minutes. About 2 hours riding on a flat battery will fully recharge a flat battery (provided charging system works properly). These times are very much estimates given to me by a mechanic. Do you have a voltmeter? If so check the battery after it is charged. Should be 12v. Turn the bike on (if you can...) and rev it in neutral to about 6000 - should read about 13-14 volts. If not there is something wrong wtih the charging system (it could be as simple as a connector). A final check is to see if battery is holding charge - charge it up. Let the battery sit overnight - check with voltmeter and it should still be at 12. It is possible that a dud battery is the cause. Cheap or not this can happen. Oh - and about back brakes - they are very touchy. They can be useful (particularly when starting on a hill), but always just remember that most of your stopping power is in the front anyways. And also when stopping your weight moves forward so your back wheel is very light and easy to lock so you will need to use minimal back brake when braking hard.
thanks for your reply Boz.. Yeah, i was stop/starting/stalling abit.. just going around the side streets, stoping, going etc.. with my battery i dont "think" its the correct size. is there correct sizes or powers for the fzr? i bought the one i "thought" was right but it turns out it is smaller. not as thick and not as tall as the one that was on the bike. would this be my problem? another thing that i noticed, if i was at the lights the blinkers wouldnt work? but they would work while i was riding? (was my battery that low, abit of a trip cause they just started working while i was riding, but stoped again when i stoped!) the mechanic actually tested all the alternator/rectifier etc in front of me and he said that its charging and holding its charge (this is after i replaced the rectifier).. with the air filter, when i hit about 9ish (rpm) it just doesnt move anymore, and doesnt sound tooo good.. the mechanic replaced my carbs and put in a good replacement from a different fzr. (so it isnt the carbs or that). he also replaced the fuel filter? it was white/clear plastic that had this black stuff all in it. anything other than the air filter (and the carbs) that can stop me from pulling more than 10rpm? thanks alot for your help guys
another think with the RPMs. it will go all the way to 18-19 in neutral but only 9-10 in any gear. thought that might mean something.. thanks
probably does - but can't think what! Battery size could be an issue. Did you choose the battery, or did your mechanic? If your mechanic - why did he choose a smaller one? The fzr250 battery is very small to begin with, so having one that is even smaller could potentially be causing your issues. If you are stopping / starting with a small battery you may not be providing enough re-charge back to the battery, and constantly draining the battery (which would explain not on at traffic lights). I presume your headlights dip considerably when not revving as well (line up at a wall, neutral, and rev). If you recharge your battery fully and then try your indicators right away - do they work? If so, then it is probably something to do with the battery...
I actually picked up the battery, silly kid i am.. My headlights dim at the lights and when im not revving, exactly. I'll put a new proper battery in there over the next coming days along with a new air filter (any recommendations as there is currently nothing in there?) and ill let you guys know how things go..
The lights will dim a small degree (happens on every bike) - if they dim to virtually non-existant then the battery may be a problem. As for air filter - A link dave found indicates that the part number for an air filter for a 3ln is "3LN-14451-00". Otherwise go with what the mechanic recommends.
Check this link out for part numbers: <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?p=6499#6499">viewtopic.php?p=6499#6499</a><!-- l -->
hey i've stuck the fiche and part numbers for the air filter on that thread now <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=851">viewtopic.php?t=851</a><!-- l --> part no. 3LN - 14451 -00, as stated before <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s -->
Alritey, saga continues.. I found out the battery i had in there was totally wrong. It was producing 80 somethings of power and the one we need for the fzr produces 160 somethings of power, so the battery problem is fixed. I went down to hornsby to buy a UniFilter for the bike cause it had nothing in there. I thought this would have fixed my "it wont go past 10rpm" problem but now its doesnt really wanna push past 7ish.. Now i had to test it last night as it was raining all day (only been riding for 2days, not ready for the rain) and it just wouldnt go. Not only that it took like 15minutes to start the thing (which isnt normal). I reached the top of my street and it stalled. Won't start again. It wasnt the battery this time cause everything (blinkers too) was working. It just wont kick over.. Had to roll it down again.. (im rolling this thing more than im riding it). Did i put the filter in wrong? i put the hard part on the top if that makes sense. Any ideas guys?
I would have assumed the air filter would either only fit one way OR it would have markings whcih way it would go. As for not revving I always suggest checking teh exup valve to make sure it is working properly. In the first instance wire it open - it is a quick change but will eliminate one potential problem from the mix. See third post in <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=676">viewtopic.php?t=676</a><!-- l --> And finally I would check the fuel filter to make sure it is clean and installed correctly (I have seen them installed backwards - on a car, but could happen). I know you said it was recently replaced so presumably it will be nice and clean. Other fuel problems could be contributing as well (i.e. maybe the tubes in the tank are 'clogged'), or the fuel pump may not be working well - do you hear a 'tick tick tick tick' when you turn the bike on (before starting it)? The whirring is the exup motor, the ticking will be the fuel pump.
Ok, just called the mechanic and he is telling me that the carbies have to be adjusted to the new air filter. This is because there was no air filter before. Now this is annoying because he told me to pop an air filter in there and away you go.. I actually checked the fuel filter myself, looks brand new and looks to be fitted correctly. As for the tick tick tick, thats happens as well as the exup noise. The thing with the exup is my mechanic just replaced the bushings in there. So i would assume that wont be the problem (but you never know). I'll go home 2nite, take the air filter out and see if it starts first time.. If so then his right and the carbs have to be adjusted for the new air filter. Just so i know, what should first gear reach if your on about 15-16rpm, 50km/h? I need to go to about the end of second (which stops at 10rpm now) to reach 50..
disable the exup valve leaving it fully open and see if it goes pass 10k to do this the easy way take off your seat and turn on your bike you know the servor motor for the exup valve self checks itself by openning the valve and then returnning it to the close position. When the servo motor rolls back fully turn off the ignition quickly and disconnect the wire leading to the servo motor the wrie is a 3 pin clip on type with slots so just pull it apart it wornt hurt your bike. then start up the bike enjoy the heavy sound you'll get a stutter at 4k-5k but after that it would rev to 6 and up pass 10 try it in nuetral first the go do a road test if it goes pass ten its your exup valve. Another way to do it is to remove the farings and disconnect the exup cable and tie it so it would stayin the open position at all times. i hope this helps i ahd a similar problem and it was my valve so check that hope it didn;t bore you guys
I don’t think your problem is the air filter. I have had the air filter off the bike to work on the carbies while the bike was running and it would rev all the way to redline. If it was just a matter of adjusting the carbies to match the new filter you should just as easily be able to adjust the carbies to run with no air filter (not recommended, running with no air filter can damage the engine).
Finally solved the problem (for now anyways).. Ok, where the air filter goes there this cap that screws onto it. Now it seems that my cap had these 3 holes drilled into them (i dont know why) and they looked to be non-home job holes so i thought they where part of the cap. My mechanic tells me this is not the case and that this should be covered. We got the duct tape out and got happy on that. Took it for a spin and problem solved. The thing goes all the way to 18 and flys. Feels 10x better than before. He also gave it alittle service. Flushed the oil and replaced etc and feels great. So if anyone has holes in there air filter cap then your going to have problems. Duct tape it up and see if that helps. It did for me (and this is after checking the exup, replacing my carbies and buying a new air filter)
Also, thanks for all your all your help guys (and gals). Much appreciated. I'll get some k's under my belt and will definitely be coming to one of your ride days. I live in Sydney (hurstville). See you guys around and thanks again.
I wonder.... this may be because the previous owner found the bike running rich. An obvious solution would be to increase airflow. When you initially had the bike properly tuned and serviced then this 'fix' actually became a detriment. That is just a guess. It is always a bad thing when people try to do quick fixes rather than doing the job right. (Quick fixes are OK for short term, but certainly should be addressed once time or money permits...)
well the new owner had afew of these 'quick fixes' on the bike which we slowly unravelled as we were fixing it. The carbies on the bike had this black glue on it to fix a crack somewhere. This along with no airfilter and holes in the cap screwed things up. Thing was this bike was supposed to have a brand new engine in it. So its annoying to find everything around the engine was far from brand new. I bought the bike for $800 understanding it needed some work so i shouldnt complain too much. It still laggs about 10rpm but thats for about .1 of second and then launches in to 12-13-14... One other thing, i was riding the other night when a lady pulled a U turn in front of me. I down geared pretty quick and locked up the back alittle. was about an inch from hitting her.. She then just drove off. no sorry, no wave no nothing.. i rode up along her (she was about 40ish) and gave her a good 30second shake of the head, disapproval kind of thing. I didnt wanna give her the finger or start smashing down her door (same age as me mum, and i wouldnt want any one doing that to her). Any adivce on how to advoid this and how would you guys deal with it?
Everyones got a story about almost getting wiped out by a car driver who then drives off completely oblivious. I try not to get too wound up over it - ("try" doesn't always mean I don't) - you could get yourself into more trouble if the driver is a real nut-case and quite often they don't even know what they've done wrong. I reckon its better just ride as if all other drivers are potential homicidal psychpaths and then you won't be unpleasently surprised when you find that one is <!-- s:roll: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_roll.gif" alt=":roll:" title="Rolling LoL" /><!-- s:roll: -->
I Agree with spook - you have to assume a lot of the time that people won't see you. We are smaller and more vulnerable, and we have to be aware that even though we have the right to be on that portion of the road at that time that the other people will win if they want to. I am glad you didn't go excessive in your reaction - sometimes people do just fail to miss seeing a bike (just as they sometimes miss seeing a car). The only time I get upset with people (beyond shaking my head as I look at them) is when people deliberately do these things to you. I've found as I have become more experienced that there I am in fewer of these situations. They still occur, but I think I can anticipate them more and therefore avoid them beforehand.
