To adjust the exup valve there are two things you will need to do: 1) Below/beside the side stand on the left hand side there will be a metal cover over two cables. Take this off - it will reveal the cables that attach to the actual exup valve. (you may not need to take the fairing off for this, but you may). On the valve itself note the 'fork'. 2) Take off the left hand side rear fairing. This will reveal the actual exup servo motor. About 10 cm's down the two cables attaching to the motor you will see the adjustment screws. If these cables are loose that could be your problem and it is a quick fix (there should be minimal slack on these). If they are relatively firm, then continue... Identigy which cable opens (open = clockwise - fork points up) and which cable closes the exup and how this matches with the motor. What you will want to do is tighten the one that opens the valve, and loosen the one that closes the valve (note: to tighten you actually extend the link, to loosen you shorten it). To tune to manufacturers spec. There is a hole underneath where the fork on the valve is. The fork should line up exactly with this hole (I put in a #5 allan key in there to see how well they line up). However, I always found my bike to run better if I actually kept the exup valve slightly open - so I tuned it so the fork was slightly above this hole (only about 5 mm above or so). Play with the settings and see what works for you. If the manufacturer spec seems to work I would go with that, but if it doesn't then alter the setting. Hope that helps!
thanks for the comment Boz <!-- s:-? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_Eyecrazy.gif" alt=":-?" title="Eye Crazy" /><!-- s:-? --> got the bike back today and it now goes. Apparently the intake valves were all carboned up so it wasn't letting the fuel through. It's still not a happy chappy, won't rev until it has warmed up. Has to go back for shims the mechanic says, that will be when i get funds. But the FZR bonfire has been averted! The mechanic also said to ditch the foam air filter and have the paper one.. you guys know anything about where to get one without having to sell the bike to pay for it?
thanks for the comment Boz <!-- s:-? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_Eyecrazy.gif" alt=":-?" title="Eye Crazy" /><!-- s:-? --> got the bike back today and it now goes. Apparently the intake valves were all carboned up so it wasn't letting the fuel through. It's still not a happy chappy, won't rev until it has warmed up. Has to go back for shims the mechanic says, that will be when i get funds. But the FZR bonfire has been averted! The mechanic also said to ditch the foam air filter and have the paper one.. you guys know anything about where to get one without having to sell the bike to pay for it?
just on the price issue hi all iam new to the site just on the the topic of prices if you go to <!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.redbook.com.au">www.redbook.com.au</a><!-- w --> you can look up what most thnigs are worth 1989 YAMAHA FZR250 (GREY IMPORT) 6spd 48x34.5 Twin head light National Average Price Trade In $2,300 - $2,700 Private Sale $3,500 - $4,200 Dealer's retail prices will be higher than these National Average Prices because they must prepare a bike thoroughly, both mechanically and aesthetically, and they provide a warranty
Glad to hear that the bike is up an running again! I ran mine with a foam filter. Don't know where a cheap paper filter can be found...