$4 carb. synchronizer!!

Discussion in 'FZR250.com - Archives' started by CALVO, Dec 20, 2005.

  1. CALVO

    CALVO New Member

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  2. Ciaran

    Ciaran New Member

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    You can do it even cheaper with a couple of ball bearings and a good eye.
     
  3. Casso

    Casso New Member

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    Ahh, but how much do ball bearings cost?
     
  4. koma

    koma New Member

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    That's a decent way of doing things... i question how good a seal you'd get from the tube's over the nipples, and that's IF the bike has nipples - most just have a hole for a screw to go in.

    If your going to be messing around with carb 'balancing' however... as the warning in the guide says... be sure you know that everything else on the the bike is perfect otherwise you'll only be flogging a dead (or dying) horse.

    Some things are worth tinkering with, some things are best left to those who know. With such a delicate thing like carb balancing on the little FZR's i'd be leaving it to someone who's done it countless times before - especially someone who know's the intricacies of the FZR carbs (i think everyone know's who i'm referring to ;) )
     
  5. TBone

    TBone New Member

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    Hmm on that note.. I spoke to Yuki (the CBR250 expert) and one of the things he realy stressed on to me was to do the valve clearance checks on the CBRs... Why?? according to him %99 of mechanics who service the gray imports will change the oil, air filter, oil filter and srakplugs... a BIG service will include a carby balance... they do not do the valve clearances coz they have no idea what they are ment to be!!

    I'm thinking the same thing goes for the FZR... and from past expiriances... doing a carby balance on a bike with the valves all over the place is a waste of time!!

    LOL to make things more interesting FZR250 needs special adapters for the vacume gauge (or at least the one I use)
     
  6. Ciaran

    Ciaran New Member

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    So what anybody know the spec for the valve clearances? are they in the Japanese 2kr service manual?

    My vacuum gauge came with little nylon screw in adaptors so you can plug the hose onto it. One of the hardest things I found in doing it was adjusting the screws and putting in the adaptors while the carbs where on the bike, burnt my fingerprints off that day.
     
  7. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    Correct.
    0.11-0.20mm for inlets and 0.21-0.30mm for exhaust.
    I think thats 4-8 thou" and 8-12 thou" for imperial countries.
     
  8. Casso

    Casso New Member

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    That reminds me, Ciaran, i have to book you in one day so we can do some carb cleaning <!-- s:D --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s:D -->
     
  9. CALVO

    CALVO New Member

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    Then you can furnish me the stock size for the jets (main jet, pilot jet etc.)pls.! Some of the jets were broken when triyng to unscrew them.They got brittle coz the bike was sitting for a long time before i bought it and the gasoline had been left drying out in the carb. Just glued it back & it is the suspect as the bike is idling like a helicopter.
     
  10. Ciaran

    Ciaran New Member

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    Ok. Just send me a pm and we can sort something out.
     
  11. Starter

    Starter New Member

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    Ummm it's the same for every 99% of Jap bikes so I think any mechanic should know this.
     
  12. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    Even old holdens pre EH (1964) were .008" for inlets and .012" for exhaust
     

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