Picked her up cheap last year. Reg on hold. Looked tidy enough, turned over after a charge. PO says 'just has a bit of a fuel leak'. Yeah right.
Ran fine for 30 seconds or so, then started pissing oil/fuel out the case breather. Figured it had flooded itself (had been sitting for months prior to me buying it). Did an oil change, started it up, did a loop round the back yard. Had some clutch problems, shut it off. Noticed the oil was well above the top of the sight. Bloody thing had filled up with fuel again. Carb rebuild time.
A testament to the quality of Japanese exhausts. Flange came off when I took the pipes off to do the filter. Looks like someone already tried migging the rusty bits together at some point. Found a nicer set at the wreckers (albeit with a rooted slipon I didn't want).
Nice mate, looks good! I like the colour. Mine needs a good respray but at the same time I kinda like the colour scheme so I've been holding off. Hit up @maelstrom for a Litetek carby seal kit, if you need new needles/emulsion tubes @Linkin knows where to find the right gear ($50 per set I think). These things have a fuel pump so looks like carbies need the attention, any questions @GreyImport is the resident carbymaster. I know a bit about mine but not as much as the above ppl, let us know if you have any questions.
Cheers guys. Already done the carb rebuild. Full set of seals from Litetek, new diaphragms. New stainless screws for good measure. New OEM fuel pump on the way too. Carbs were actually pretty clean inside. All the rubber was hard and flat. All intact though. Had a bit of drama with one of the slide housings. The last person who went into these carbs broke the boss off the bottom. Not a **** show of getting one from a wrecker. @GreyImport to the rescue with one from his stash. All of my diaphragms were scored pretty badly in the same spot - where the air passage in the top cap is. One was pierced through. The top caps have sharp edges around the hole, and a square ridge around it. I used a razor blade and scraped back the sharp edges. Hopefully the new ones wont end up the same way.
Got a set of four, new and genuine from Colemans Suzuki. $160 for the lot. Found them on TradeMe. I reckon they just had the four and were trying to get rid of them.
Yeah I snapped them up before I'd even opened up my carbs. Try looking for Suzuki part #13507-32C00. It's the same diaphragm that the 3LN uses. Much cheaper, easier to find. Just the rubber diaphragm though. Not the whole assy like Yamaha #3LN-14940-00.
The clutch felt okay when the bike was off, but when it was running, it would stick open, requiring a tap on the pushrod camshaft to get the lever to come back out. Popped the cover off. More backyard mechanic shenanigans. Random M5 screws with M6 washers, and nuts to hold the washers centered. This means ~5mm less compression on the clutch springs. Looks like something came loose at some point in the past. The inside of the clutch cover has a few scars. The diagram was pretty clear that the ball and this adjuster screw are not supposed to be friction welded together. Nice flat spot on the BB too. Still need to inspect the pushrod and the camshaft. Hopefully they're okay. Anyone got a spare adjuster screw ?
New clutch kit from wemoto will sort you out. Has the steel plates, kevlar plates and springs that you need. Bearing shop will get you a ball bearing or get the part number and try www.jp-parts.com
The plates and springs actually look okay. Got some proper clutch bolts. The ball is easy enough. Just trying to find the adjuster. I'll smash the ball off it next week at work, see if I can salvage it. Will just turn one up if it comes down to it.
I got a nufren complete kit (wear plates, steels & springs) from slipstream performance in Brisbane at a good price. They seem to be able to source some stuff if you get a part number
Despite my lack of activity on here, the project hasn't stalled! Clutch back together, with a new ball (old one was well and truly welded on), clutch bolts, lock washer. Feels much smoother. Yet to test it with the motor running though. OEM fuel pump finally arrived. From Israel of all places. Should be able to find on ebay by searching "3LN-13907-00". Beware, I paid $75USD for mine, and he immediately listed another one for $100 more. Manufactured by Mitsubishi Electric, part #UC-Z6Z1. Figured while I was waiting for parts I'd flush the brakes out. First task on the list? Shear off a bleed nipple. Tried to drill it out, but the drill wandered into the ally. The tapered end is still firmly in the seat. Found a TZR250 caliper, which happens to be identical to the FZR one (if it isn't just an FZR one). Broken banjo tang on the TZR caliper though. Going to make a set out of the two good halves. Piston still firmly wedged in the good half of the FZR caliper, giving it a good soak in ATF/acetone. If that doesn't work, I'll make a grease nipple fitting up and get it out that way. Seal kits have arrived, caliper halves (and MC) sandblasted. Just need to get that piston out then they're ready for paint.
