Project 3LN1 Restoration

Thanks guys,

Your advice is noted. I will tackle each issue one by one and will eventually get there. I know I have said it a million times but it wouldn't be possible without you guys. In fact, at the start of this forum I didn't even know how a carburetor worked nor did I know about how the components fit together and interacted. Now I almost know these back to front (or so i thought). This is almost like I have done a uni course in fzr carbs however guys are much better at explaining things and more in depth than any of my medical school lecturers hahah.

Firstly, ill double check the mixture screw washer and seal position but as far as I remember they were in the correct order.

When you say until they 'seat", does that mean maximum tightening or until it gets slightly harder to tighten. This may be one of my issues as I have taken the base point as tightening the screw all the way in until it doesnt go anymore and then coming back out 2.5 turns.

When you say measure the voltage, where am I probing the multimeter to? after the voltage regulator?

I have not actually cleaned the merge chamber yet and this may be causing some problems as well so i'll definitely need to pull the bungs out and check that. I'm also yet to replace every seal with my litetek kit as the seals in these carbs seem in tact and i was planning on putting the rest of the litetek ones in once i had it all working and knew these carbs were ok. Maybe this is a bad idea and i should replace them all first.

It is quite strange that my slides arent dancing like that on idle however they do slide as the revs increase. I have not replaced the emulsion tubes. Only the 1 incorrect jet from the mishmash settings these carbs had when I got them. Maybe the emulsion tubes are worn? Maybe its worth buying them anyway. All the diaphragms seem in tact so I can confirm its not due to them. Furthermore, the needles also seem in fairly reasonable condition.

This heat related issue is interesting, maybe something goes when the engine heats up but this is entirely a mystery. Ill report back on a cold start. Its quite random whether the choke is required for a cold start but the air temp here is QLD has been 30 during the day.

The tank breather should be functional and i have confirmed multiple times that the pump is flowing properly with the lid closed.

All the header pipes seem to get hot. I dont have a laser thermometer however im planning on getting one.

The fuel level with this pump on the other hand is something I haven't checked and will need to do.

Once i have isolated all these potential carb problems I can try isolate the sparking issue. Although as these carbs work fine on the other engine (the one that blows white smoke) so I am led to believe you are correct in that it is a sparking issue. How it arose over the course of this week is a mystery but oh well...just need to solve it now.

Do you guys know what components are responsible for adequate ignition other than the obvious (coils, ecu, spark plugs). Furthemore, any explanation for that fuse getting so hot it melted the plastic casing. I have been using a deep cycle marine battery for testing as the bike battery goes flat too quickly but i doubt this has caused it.