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Project 1992 Kawasaki ZXR250C

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Kirk, Jul 18, 2017.

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  1. Kirk

    Kirk Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Starting to make a bit of progress.... I think.

    Compression test done and results were:
    Cylinder 1 - 127
    Cylinder 2 - 125
    Cylinder 3 - 125
    Cylinder 4 - 124

    So a bit lower than recommended 142-218 but I guess expected on a bike that's done 65k+ kms. At least they're all similar. Don't have a leak down tester so unable to do that at the moment.

    Next I swapped out the replacement carbies that @kiffsta sent and I'm going to tentatively say that this has fixed the issue. To be confirmed by cold start tomorrow morning.

    After putting them in I let it warm up to make sure the radiator fan was going to kick on, which it did. Then I balanced the carbies and put the airbox back on.

    Results so far:
     
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    Kirk, Aug 25, 2017
    #41
  2. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    that sounds so much better, glad it is sorted mate

    I have to ask WTF happened to your gauges, they should look different
     
    kiffsta, Aug 25, 2017
    #42
  3. Kirk

    Kirk Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Would not have a clue. I think this bike has been raced in a past life and most of the fairings look like they have some plastic welding done to them. Possibly weight reduction as it is proper carbon fibre or fixing accident damage.
     
    Kirk, Aug 25, 2017
    #43
  4. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    C Model clocks


    IMG_1579.JPG
     
    kiffsta, Aug 25, 2017
    #44
  5. Kirk

    Kirk Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Also managed to rebuild the petcock and get the tank back on this afternoon.
    Amazing how productive you can be if you take a day off work.

    fOtM4Sn.jpg
    jVFXLSe.jpg
     
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    Kirk, Aug 25, 2017
    #45
  6. Cbuzz

    Cbuzz Well-Known Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    What compression tester did you use ?
     
    Cbuzz, Aug 25, 2017
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  7. Kirk

    Kirk Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Kirk, Aug 25, 2017
    #47
  8. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    You need to do the compression test with the throttle wide open, and the slides fully lifted. Easier way is to take the carbies off.
     
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    Linkin, Aug 25, 2017
    #48
  9. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member

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    Looks like just a carbon fibre faceplate attached to the clock, kiffsta.
     
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    ShaneP, Aug 25, 2017
    #49
  10. Kirk

    Kirk Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    A little bit more progress today. Cold start this morning was great so now that I'm happy the engine is sorted I've been going over the rest of the bike.

    There's a couple more issues I've identified before getting it in for a roadworthy that I'm hoping the ZXR experts can help with.

    1. Fork seals need to be done even though I was told they had been recently replaced. This is easy enough to do.

    2. I don't think the rearsets on the bike are standard. There doesn't seem to be a return spring on the rear brake which causes the brake light not to turn off properly. Can someone confirm from the pic?
    ylU4m4w.jpg
    oAZEjwH.jpg

    3. The chain slider is fairly worn down but if the chain is not really tight it rubs on the bolt that holds the hugger on. I have a feeling these bolts are not standard and should be a lot shorter. Can someone confirm?
    wlPQLEw.jpg
    izYrH5v.jpg
     
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    Kirk, Aug 26, 2017
    #50
  11. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Looks like you're missing the rear hugger/chain guard (it's one piece)

    Definitely aftermarket rearsets, and that bolt shouldn't be anywhere near the chain.
     
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    Linkin, Aug 26, 2017
    #51
  12. Kirk

    Kirk Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I've got the hugger I just took it off for the photo. Thanks for confirming my other suspicions.
     
    Kirk, Aug 26, 2017
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  13. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member

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    The brake light switch may need adjusting. Does the brake pedal return or is it stuck? The spring may have been left off and they relied on the master cylinder spring.
     
    ShaneP, Aug 26, 2017
    #53
  14. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    The screws that hold the hugger on are a mushroom topped Phillips head , the thread shouldn't go past the bracket on the swing arm. Those rear sets are from a Japanese company called Beet, they are about $400 new and are the ducks nuts for racing , try and find someone who races , I'm sure you will get good money for them
     
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    kiffsta, Aug 27, 2017
    #54
  15. Kirk

    Kirk Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Update time.

    From previous posts I've swapped the bolts on the hugger to the correct size so they don't hit the chain anymore and the rearsets have been replaced with a standard set, thanks @kiffsta.

    I've given myself a deadline and booked it in for a roadworthy next Wednesday so thought I better get stuck in and do the fork seals. It has taken most of the weekend as I decided to paint strip the flaky gold paint off the forks, the red off the brake disk centres, and have a go at stripping the green off the front wheel.

    The forks came apart and cleaned up nicely. The only problem I found is that someone in the past has clamped or put the chrome part of a fork in a vice :mad: We'll see if it starts leaking again.

    MQIDNUZ.jpg
    99gQjtF.jpg
    MmswGvm.jpg

    The wheel took absolute ages. About 5 coats of paint stripper revealed over the years the wheels have been green and purple. I'm not happy with the finish after the paint has been stripped so will probably just spray them silver when I get a chance.

    Front wheel before stripper:
    svXOwG8.jpg

    After 5 coats and a wire brush:
    kFiXxyS.jpg

    Finally I took it out into the sun and gave it a wash.
    9AYrY8Z.jpg

    This afternoon I'm planning to have a sneaky ride up and down the road to make sure there are no more issues and then see if it passes roadworthy on Wednesday. I also want to get new tyres for it but having trouble finding a 140/60 18 for the rear that doesn't cost $300.
     
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    Kirk, Sep 10, 2017
    #55
  16. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Dupli-color have a Metallic Silver mag wheel paint which covers a lot of defects and when hit with some wheel clear looks pretty scmick... the front looks better than the rear :)
     
    Andych, Sep 10, 2017
    #56
  17. Kirk

    Kirk Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Yeah I'll probably do that. Just wanted to get new tyres on first so the paint doesn't get all chipped and scratched. Also not looking forward to stripping the paint of the rear.

    Just took it for a ride down the road. The clutch is starting to slip but should be fine for roadworthy. I've got some new springs and friction plates ordered.
     
    Kirk, Sep 10, 2017
    #57
  18. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    And you better order new fork legs too. That one will chew up a seal very quickly.
     
    Murdo, Sep 10, 2017
    #58
  19. tarmacsurfer

    tarmacsurfer Well-Known Member

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    You would be better having the wheels blasted and powder coated as it's not expensive. Paint will chip quite easily.
     
    tarmacsurfer, Sep 12, 2017
    #59
  20. Kirk

    Kirk Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    That would be the proper way to do it but I'm not looking at spending a huge amount on this bike. It's coming up on 70k kms and just starting to look a bit tired and worn. It's had a racing past and most of its fairings are plastic welded together and the paint is hiding a lot.

    If I was going to restore one of these I'd find a slightly better candidate. This one will be fine for a daily commuter until I find something else that catches my interest.
     
    Kirk, Sep 12, 2017
    #60
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