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Project 1987 CBX 250 - Street legal salt flat racer

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Benayun, Nov 7, 2015.

Good value or i got ripped off...

Poll closed Dec 5, 2015.
  1. Good value

    36.4%
  2. About right

    63.6%
  3. Ripped off

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  1. Benayun

    Benayun Active Member

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    My Bike:
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    The day of purchase. $650 AUD - unregistered with seized front fork. Everything else looks like it works and runs. Little rust on the frame. 16yrs of road grime thrown in as a bonus.

    image.jpg
     
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  2. kiffsta

    kiffsta Administrator Staff Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    good score, these are an appreciating classic
     
  3. Benayun

    Benayun Active Member

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    Some more in its 'purchased' state...

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  4. Benayun

    Benayun Active Member

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    Plastics off... Tank off... Loom out (in one piece- win!)
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  5. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Good stuff .... good to see the marker and labels are in use also :thumb_ups:

    The re sealable plastic bags are good for storing and labeling during tear down
     
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  6. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Good value. Be an easy restore as most of the hard to get bits are there.
     
  7. Benayun

    Benayun Active Member

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    I knew when i bought the bike that the front fork was seized... Started taking it apart tonight. Not sure if there is an accepable level of crud you can have inside your fork... But I'm pretty sure this isn't it...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
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  8. Benayun

    Benayun Active Member

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    I think there is a spring clip in there somewhere.... Or maybe it has decintergrated...

    [​IMG]


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  9. Jo Verhelst

    Jo Verhelst Forty2 Premium Member Contributing Member

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    My Bike:
    honda cbx250 1987,cb250rs '84,2x suzuki gt 250 '74, and some more
    i wonder what they used to fill it, a mixture of tar and water by the looks of it,
    don't know a better way to stiff up your suspension ;)
     
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  10. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Thats so bad its nearly funny ..... :D
     
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  11. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Never have I seen forks in that condition, great photo's.....dirty outcome :(
     
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  12. Jo Verhelst

    Jo Verhelst Forty2 Premium Member Contributing Member

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    My Bike:
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    i bought mine a few years ago for 150 euros, in about the same shape but with a bit more cracked plastic, with papers. Here in belgium nobody wants a bike smaller than 500cc 'cause the're not "real bikes" the're mopeds, until you show them the way in the city and then they know why bigger isn't always better, i like the little bikes as much as the big ones + they are cheaper in maintenance and insurance, and we don't have to pay roadtax under 250cc. They are so much fun !
     
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  13. Frankster

    Frankster "Play stupid games, win stupid prizes" Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    That's disgusting. Who would do that to a fork? Don't they realise how these things work and what happens if they don't?

    I love the look of the CBX250. I always wanted one, but ended up going with the SRX250 instead. One day I will get one. I will be following your build. Good luck.
     
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  14. Benayun

    Benayun Active Member

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    I have posted this on another group - and it has been suggested that this was an 'old school' trick to fixing leaky forks... Fill it with grease!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  15. Benayun

    Benayun Active Member

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    Opinions please...
    Given the state of my forks which some of you may have seen in a previous post - what's my best option?
    - Spend $200 on new bushings, clips, seals etc and install them in a flogged out fork
    OR (newbie question)
    - Do a fork swap from another bike (note: Original CBX250 forks seem hard to come by/v.exxy) . What would I need to consider. Is it best replacing triple trees down? Or just legs. Does new fork legs mean new wheel due to axel width and disc location.
    - are most steering tube/ diameters the same across models from same
    Manufacturer? No workshop manual to get exact specs.


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  16. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Why not just replace the springs ..... having the spring rate would help so you could find something similar .... or use the diameter and length
    Contact the spring companys online

    Or just add a spacer to take up the slack with the old ones ..... and a little heavier fork oil

    Have a look at this thread .... lots of info and discussion on springs

    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/front-suspension-upgrade-fzr.1850/

    The tubes themselves dont look pitted and the legs should be ok .... just clean out all the crap
    And the top where the cap is, I would think, is supposed to be level with the top of the triple tree as standard

    http://www.ikonsuspension.com/product/ikon-fork-springs/

    http://www.progressivesuspension.com/

    http://www.promecha.com.au/springs_basics.htm
     
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    Last edited: Nov 11, 2015
  17. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I tend to agree with @GreyImport, if your tubes are good and not pitted and the legs straight then I would try and rebuild what you have, at least you'll know what you've got.

    few years back I purchased some progressive springs from Ikon, transformed my SV650 into something special, never regretted that purchase. Cost back then was around $160.00 and service was very prompt.:)

    Wish you luck mate, let's face anything will be an improvement on what you've just dismantled :thumb_ups:
     
  18. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    If chrome is good and legs straight then rebuild.
     
  19. Benayun

    Benayun Active Member

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    This seems to be a common problem, so I will explain in length incase someone comes along in the future.

    I was having a lot of trouble with the internals spinning when trying to undo the bottom Allen bolt. I watched many YouTube videos and read a few workshop manuals - all mentioned it as a possibility - but they all seamed to have little issue with it.

    My forks were a different story;
    I tried putting the spring back in and tightening up the cap nut, the pressure of spring on the internals should prevent spinning, but that didn't work.

    Apparently impact drivers are best - but I don't have one.

    I read you could buy a broom handles and slide it inside, push really had and prevent internals from slipping. That didn't work. I even inverted them, leant on them with my whole body weight and tried to undo the nut - still spun.

    I ended up ratcheting the broom handle inside the fork - tightened as much as I could and hey presto! Out came the bolt.
    Note the D clip helped prevent the strap from slipping off the end, and I kind of 'wrapped' the strap around the lower for a good grip.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    RHS - fork is now apart, but the bushings didn't come out with the stanchion... They are stuck inside the lower leg, along with the rubber oil seal...

    LHS - The seized fork wouldn't come apart at all - I can't 'slide hammer' it out because it won't move. I fixed the lower and tried pulling on the stanchion - but not strong enough... Any ideas?


    Back in 5mins. Out riding.
     
  20. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Find a bolt of the correct thread to screw into the top of the fork leg so it can be held in a vice, and pull on the slider.
    Are you sure the bushings have to come out. Some forks of that era were able to be separated without bushings/seals coming out first.
     

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