If your refering to this then I say you are incorrect Why would the oil level light come on when youre turning over the motor? Actually I cant test that or remember as I cant start my bike as the stator is still off but the other situation that I posted is what happens on my bike Ignition on shows green and red.....in other words they are "active" Kill switch on shows green obviously as its still in neutral.......red off as the oil level is correct
There is a self-test function through the diode block / Main Relay Assembly. The oil lamp grounds through the MRA then the oil level switch itself. When the start button is pushed, it bypasses the oil level switch to ground. This allows the rider to ensure that a burned $0.30 bulb won't lead to the ruin of his engine! <!-- s:-? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_Eyecrazy.gif" alt=":-?" title="Eye Crazy" /><!-- s:-? --> This is the circuit diagram for an FZR600; it uses the same MRA as the 3LN3+ 250s, so I think it's a reasonable example. I draw your attention to items 21 (Oil lamp), 22 (Oil switch), 23 (Start switch), and 26 (Main Relay Assembly). That said, a review of this very diagram suggests the start switch is not the culprit, as the same switch is used to ground the starter solenoid and turn the engine over! It may be possible that there is something internally wring with the relay assembly, such that the diode responsible for the lamp is grounding, but not the diode for the starter solenoid.
Come to think of it, i painted my dash and ever since then my oil light only comes on when i start up.
Perhaps this diagram from the 2KR might show it a bit better - The neutral switch brings on the neutral light and through the diode block brings in the safety start relay. The oil level switch will activate the oil light if the oil level is low. The light will also come on when the start button is pressed through the diode connecting to the start push button. This is only to confirm the oil light globe is functional.
hay guys thanks again for all your help with this bike i cleaned and ckecked the start button was pretty clean but still cleaned with wd40 but one of the wires broke of the start switch during the clean tryed to fix just ended up making a mess.ckecked loom seems to be fine <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_sad.gif" alt="" title="Sad" /><!-- s --> was able to still test it and no differents .turn on ignition= green light... as soon as you push start button= red oil light.... and it stays on arter it starts .so close to just taking it to the shop so close <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_sad.gif" alt="" title="Sad" /><!-- s -->
hay man didnt see your post of the diagram before my last post lol. thanks for the diagram il study it tonight and let you guys know how i went in the morning i dont want to take it to the shop, but i am getting very frustrated.
i have had a good look at the diagrams this is what i have come up with could it be a problem in diode block/relay assembly if the relay in the diode block for the safety oil light test function is falty and if so would bypass the oil light senser creating the constant oil light ?
The wire to the oil sensor, oil light or the diode block itself would need to have a short circuit to the frame or the ground wire to make the oil light stay on. Either that or someone has modified it deliberately or accidentally.
Hello everyone! My first post here. Have had a constant oil light. Figured out it's main relay doing it. So I bringed the entire oil light controls out of relay box. Red-black and black-red wires are disconnected from the relay socket and shorted to each other. Some (unsoldered from junk electronics) diode is connected between blue-white wire in relay socket and red-black/black-red wires conjunction. So it's just represents the above schemes but outside of the relay box. Everything now working. Thanks to this forum and you guys.
Good to see you have it fixed. <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt="" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s -->