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FZR 2KR WONT REV OVER 10000 WHEN IN GEAR

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by Aerojake, Mar 24, 2015.

  1. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    Done all the test in your write up Stu great job btw makes it heaps easier for newbs like me considering ive never used a multimeter before. All test turned up good except for the battery recharge test where the voltage is low.
     
  2. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    Also did a AC test between neg post and neg terminal with reg connected I was drawing 25.5v then disconnected reg and tried DC between neg terminal and post and I wasent drawing anything. I did this assuming that somthing else might be drawing power enough to send my battery flat in 7 mins but am i right in saying that no draw with the reg disconnected must be another dodgy R/R?
     
  3. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    Correction I stuffed up the previous test supposed to test amps not voltage so I tested between the bat neg post and neg terminal and got 7.4A disconnected reg and got 7.2A.
    I also tested the pins on the reg with combinations of pos pin to all 3 stator pins and neg pin to all 3 stator pins had to reverse bias to get the readings though and they all came back with the same values so this rules out the reg/rec looks like im looking for something else thats drawing power I does run a permanent headlight but I doubt this would draw enough to send the battery flat in 7mins at idle.
     
  4. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    Checked the resistance of stator coils on the 2000 ohm setting they numbers vame back at 003 for each set when i took the cover off i noticed a film of dusty you cab see where I have wiped my finger to rid some of it, is this a normal?

    20150328_122326.jpg
     
  5. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Have not seen dust like that in a stator before. Clean it and see if any difference.
     
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  6. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    Yeah I cleaned it didn't make any difference there was some discolouration and slight rust on top of some of the stator coils.
    Going off of all the test and ruling out the reg/rec it must be the stator causing the problem is there anything else I should rule out before replacing it?
     
  7. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    Hi guys.
    Having alot of trouble finding out whats preventing my battery from receiving charge, I have run some test Im hoping someone can help make sense of the numbers.
    Thanks

    Battery voltage with bike off 12.5v
    Battery voltage at 4000rpm 12.8v

    Stator output 31v at 4000rpm on all 3 stator wire combinations

    Amps between neg terminal and neg battery post 7.4A
    Amps between neg terminal and neg post with VRR disconnected 7.2A (Runs permanent headlight)

    VRR pins showing same values between all combinations off positive pin to all 3 stator pins and same values for neg pin to all 3 stator pins.

    Resistance between stator coils on ohm 2000 setting =003 for all coil combinations.

    Stator wire resistance at plug on all 3 wire combinations at ohm 200 setting 01.2 ohms.
     
  8. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    maybe watch these vids they have helped me heaps with reg issues.



     
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  9. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    Yeah thanks I have watched those vids I have ruled out the VRR and there is no current draw from any other objects except the headlight which would be around the 7amps shown on the test, Just want to know if there is anything else that could cause this issue besides the stator.
     
  10. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    So just looking over the wires again and had a look at the flasher unit its a narva 145w flasher, Im not to sure but 145w sounds a little excessive to me?
     
  11. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    Thought i'd update the used VRR I brought was dodgy, I put the old one back in and all readings are good it must of been something funky with the old wiring.

    Still trying to sort out the rev issue I cleaned and gaped the plugs snipped 5mm of the HT leads and reinstalled caps the fuel filter is a generic disc type one might be restricting fuel flow at higher rpms? So ill replace that and undo petcock and inspect the filter on that if this doesent work ill pull the carbs any tricks to get the carbs off the boots that join them to the head?
     
  12. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    The carb & airbox boots are held in place via clamps, usually JIS or allen head types
     
  13. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    Yeah didn't remove airbox boots as the box lifted off with no hesitation they definitely weren't sealed ill seal them with silicon when I reinstall,
    The boots that join the carbs to the head were a bit more stubborn as I dident realize you needed to bend the oval clamps for them to release there grip.
    Theres a few tinny cracks in the boots would covering them in a light coat of silicon be the best way to make sure there airtight again?
     
  14. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    The best way to ensure they are airtight is to replace them. If they are cracking externally it's only a matter of time before they fall to bits and get muck into engine.
     
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  15. Garry

    Garry Active Member

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    I re sealed the one's on my zeal today with permatex high temperature form a gasket and covered them with SOS tape. My manifolds were heavily cracked, it started easier and run a lot better.
    Hopefully it will last.
     
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  16. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    Yeah would be better off replacing them but there so damn hard to find and theres no way im paying 200 bucks for them lol there not severely cracked just hairline stuff I was thinking I have some heatshrink tape here might give that a go.
     
  17. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Your indicator relay is a Narva 68202 rated for 6 globes of 24w. Load sensitive relays have to have the right load applied to flash at the correct speed.

    Using silicone to seal carburettor rubbers is not a good idea and on the airbox side you run the risk of blocking the air jets. It would be better to cut out some rubber washers/rings or something similar to make a well fitting seal. Please avoid using silicone on motorcycles. It is good for working on houses and not much else.

    As for the cracking on the engine to carb rubbers; they are made from NBR which has poor UV resistance, so cracking on the outside is very common for any bike with a few years on it, particularly if it was parked in the sun. Unless the cracks penetrate right through that is not your problem.

    Reg/Rec units need a good earth. I would suggest checking the main earth strap to ground and all of the minor ground points.
    cheers
    Blair
     
  18. Garry

    Garry Active Member

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    Just to clarify, the sealant was used on the outside of the cracked manifolds
     
  19. Mclaren

    Mclaren Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Do not use sealant on carbs if it gets into engine good bye!!! Boots should be snug and with clamp should be ample to create seal if not ur boots are gone and need new ones 200 bucks cheaper than a engine mate
     
  20. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    Yeah I'd hope so lol,
    I reckon I've had to cut a slot for a flat head screwdriver in 75% of the screws in these damn carbys they set in bloody tight. Doesn't look like its been cleaned for a while the bowls are all varnished and the jets have some black sooty crap around them.
     

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