Don't think there are a lot of CDI units being used these days. Haven't seen many of those since Kawasaki H2 era. You don't want to get a shock from one of those buggers, nasty.
Do you have another bike that runs so you can validate your dva is working correctly ? It weird because your picks test within spec , and you have spark, is it a good strong park or weak spark ?
Today I have looked at why of where does the TCI get its signals Just an update The pick up coil and statorare fine these have been checked Changed TCI still does not fire up So the one thing for sure is that the 120v needed to fire the coils is not present I am now checking the Green and Red wire that comes from the starter relay and passes through the clutch switch and side stand to give the TCI a 12v feed.... I would like someone to confirm this is how the green and red from the starter relay works? Thanks again for all your imput By the way both coils Check on the primary and secondary sides, New leads and plugs The DVA works and have confirmed this, so the pulse/pick up coils works and hence I can see that the 120v feed is not getting to the coils
Yes I know this bikes 20+ years old but we can rebuild you I have also found an intermittent fault that was in the kill switch plug connect - now sorted The clutch switch intermittent, this was self inflicted but fitting ratchet style levers - so I am aware of this now The stator wiring from the stator plug to rectifier is slightly frazzled but passes current fine - awaiting new plugs It’s best to keep in mind that when this bike came off the production line, rain and moisture was not a main concern, as none of the plugs and connectors are insulated at all so, will bare this in mind going forward... don’t want to have to go through this again
The confirmation that there is no 120v for the coils to fire the 20,000 volts is confirmed by “Murdo’s” suggestion of using a timing light which I thinks a brill idea because you don’t have to keep sodding about testing plugs
I thought I would lighten this post up a bit as it’s me asking for some advice and nothing else So I thought I would post a pic or two of the bike there a few in between anyway that’s for later
What 120v are you talking about? 12v to the coil positive and the TCI acts as a switch to collapse the field in the coil and fire the spark. You should have wet spark plugs if everything is functioning but not firing. You should also be able to smell fuel. What happens if you squirt a bit of fuel into the intake throats and try to start it?
Are the 3x yellow's from the stator giving you a reading of between .3 Ohm's to .4 Ohm's ? Put the red lead from your multimeter to one yellow and the black lead to another yellow, then try the next yellow The black w/white stripe and the green wire's on the ignition coil's should have 12.6v when the ignition key is turned on, and the kill switch is off. The 2x yellow w/blue wire's on the ignition coil's should show minimal voltage, and the reading might flicker as you are cranking it over, might be too quick to see with a digital multimeter ?
View attachment 32901 View attachment 32900 View attachment 32901 I thought I would lighten this post up a bit as it’s me asking for some advice and nothing else So I thought I would post a pic or two of the bike there a few in between anyway that’s for later Hi there Thanks for the reply The 120v I’m talking about is on page 24 - 64 in the supplement section for the L + N models, the workshop manual does not give a full account of how the system actually works but I have picked up bits as I have gone along and yes not enough that I can work out what wrong yet The coils as you say collapse when giving the 20,000 volts to the spark plugs. This happens every time the TCI switches off, as mentioned I have 4 sparks but only from the 12v side ie weak sparks The 12v is constant on both coils The stator windings are good as are the pick up coil they have been tested This is interesting that I have since found out I did mention the bike pops back through the exhaust intermittently after turning over but not firing The reason being is that the TCI shuts off after turning but not firing this happens after 2 seconds and this in turn shuts of the coils ( collapsing them) the sparks then depending where the pistons are ignites the unspent fuel,, boooom!
Hi mate, Sent the stator windings and pick up coil to a pro company and all checked out ok, same as my meter said but had to confirm The 12v is constant and the kill switch also does what it should now
The part of the circuit I do not fully understand yet is; From the starter soloniod and it goes back to the bit I mentioned How when the starter stops turning the TCI shuts down and you get the 2 sparks Well the Green and red from the starter Soloniod goes through the circuit changing colours and passing through the clutch switch, side stand etc and if I’m right ends up at the TCI, that’s where I’m at trying to understand how they work or don’t as the case may be? So if anyone can explain that part of the circuit that would sure help I have another Starter solenoid coming today or tomorrow as they current one (pardon the pun) does not put 12v down the green and red? Upwards and onwards
wiring digram -http://www.eclipze.com.au/files/cbr250/honda_cbr250rr_wiring_diagram.pdf Colour wiring diagram
You stated that it does not have the 120+ volts peak voltage. (you did test it with a peak voltage adapter fitted I assume). So the TCI is either faulty or something is causing it to be faulty. "Changed TCI still does not fire up" Unless you know that the TCI that you swapped out is working then it doesn't mean anything. The charging system is irrelevant, you can run a bike on total loss, as are all the neutral switches etc. They can be bypassed and in your case should be. Probably a thread somewhere on doing just that. Lots of people race MC22's and they don't need sidestand switches and all of that useless garbage to run.
Hi mate, Yes thanks I have that and have been cross referencing between the original as I cannot read the wire colours yes mate I have that thanks