As the world turns .... the new ignition died a horrible death this morning .... the little weather flap in the key hole went south so u couldnt get the key in.... I was fighting a losing battle anyway as changing the wiring didnt fix the lights The surround with the wording fell off also , but that was good as I stuck it on the old ignition which is now back in place ..... so I have a pretty ignition but the key still falls out while on .... oh well back to a piece of string to tie it on to the bar The moral of the story is ... dont buy shite Chinese ignitions .... or buy a Honda
when I got my fizzer I didn't have a key at all, so I disassembled the ignition block to get at the barrel. Bought a key blank and filed a new key, anyway reason I'm mentioning is that new filed key, the peaks and valleys were really sharp and defined, perhaps get a key blank & work at filing it towards the key you have progressively, right to the point where it just works. Alternative is to disassemble the barrel and make a new one from a straight blank, make sure the springs and pins don't escape on you though.
Sound's like your original lock has sticky wafer's or worn spring's, you might be able to disassemble it clean it up and regrease it then put it back together Or use the new wafer's in your original ignition switch to use the new key Or even match up your original wafer's with the one's from your new switch and use them to keep your original key. They are pretty simple inside once you have them apart Similar to this, you can see the spring's inside the tumbler All the wafer's/blade's are numbered, and you can file the top's down a bit if you need to I re-keyed my glove compartment lock to suit my FZR key
Yeah there's lot's of good build thread's here, you should start one for your 3LN5 Your 250cc Project's
Sorry Ruckus, I have been racing my 3LN1 without a fuel pump for a few years now without issue... FNQFZR
Yeah you're right - we were thinking that it was a fuel level going high issue at that stage of the game - then someone found the keyster needle/needle valve replacement kits and it was found to be worn emulsion tubes. I will say the fuel level varies between fuel pump and no fuel pump - so carburetor fuel level does have to be adjusted accordingly
Trying to figure out how many Ks Ive done since Ive had the bike .... this is an early pic from 2013 .... can anyone see better than me ... I think its 50xxx or could be 40xxx ... ?
If you have the green slip (roadworthy) it will be on there. Or transfer papers. Or the very expensive REVS check will give you odometer readings for transfers, registrations and incidents (wovr).
Good to see someone is thinking up the right path I even have a copy of the original ad ... current reading is 56250
More than half of those kms were forum rides , oh hangnon, there was that time with the Korean sewing machine
The reason I was figuring out the Ks is that it ran like crap coming home from Texas so I thought I would start with the plugs ... that I now know have done about 6000klms
That didnt fix it .... has tons of power ... it just takes a couple of seconds to come on when u twist the throttle to give it the beans .... fuel filter next
Yea carbys were due to come off for a total rehash soon anyway ... they havnt been off in ages .... the 'pilot merge chamber' had yet to be discovered back then also
No change with a different filter .... Im a bit suspect of that glass filter that was on it .... metal shards are present from the holes drilled in it and actually I doubt it filtered anything the way it was ..... looking at the photo I dont think I had it setup right ... Chances are theres crud in the carbys .... could even be a needle clip off or something ... I hit some major holes and bumps in the road on that last trip and run fuel from all those different crappy servos.