Id say frames been chrome plated..if you know ppl its not that expensive if you do all the prep work.... If moneys tight go 2 pac metalic silver with a tad of flake with a heap of coats of clear, then polish the crap out of it...
I want to go back to the original exhaust tho as I want to put my rear foot pegs back on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Its certainly not that money is tight... I would prefer to do as much as I can on it so I will probably try some Chrome Paint and then plenty of clear to give it depth.. By using 2 Pak clear I wont have to polish it out... But any other suggestions will be considered.. it wont happen any time soon so plenty of time to consider the alternatives.
if you wet sand and polish the 2pak it ends up looking like glass..just make sure you have sufficient coats so you dont push back to the color coat
The frame in your pic look's like it was chromed. Chrome can cause embrittlement and actually weaken the steel There are quite a few decent chrome paint's available now, but can be expensive, some require a special chrome spray gun to apply them. Check out price';s at you auto paint shop, they may be able to recommend someone who uses the chrome spray too, might work out to be a better price https://dna-paints.com/virtual-chrome/
I'd say it's not chrome on the frame but nickel (like a Harris or Rickman frame). To chrome a frame would nearly impossible to get all the little corners and hidden parts clean and plated correctly, not saying it cannot be done but be very expensive to do. To nickel (or even zinc on a polished surface) is a lot easier to do and should be a tenth of the cost. Chroming will not cause hydrogen embrittlement of mild steel (which is what most frames are made of) but should not be used on chrome-moly or any high tensile or high carbon steels.
You could be on the mark there Murdo... when I zoom in as much as possible it appears the threaded brackets on the frame have similar colour which wouldnt be the case if it was chrome plated I would imagine. I still think I will investigate some chrome paint. I just like the way it goes with the Ruby Red and the polished engine covers etc... if it doesnt work out the way I want... I will just strip it off and repaint the frame
So.. time for some updates I have almost finished the modifications to the frame to bring it up to the 3WP spec which includes different rear-sets to accomodate the rear disc master cylinder and pillion foot-pegs, rear master cylinder bracket and removal of old pillion brackets etc. Hopefully all that will be finished this weekend and I will try out my kArcher wet sand blast attachment.. should be interesting. I have the seal kit for the FZR front forks so I can also start on them. With the weather starting to ease off I will be able to get into the garage of an evening and some of these things that dont require making a lot of noise... I have also decided that it is going to be converted into an SRX350... This is a reasonably straight forward process (not easy, just straight forward) that requires the engine cases having the hole for the barrel to be machined out another 12mm.. The stroke of the 250 and TT350 are identical as are the little end bearing and conrod for that matter. So, I have purchased a 2nd hand (needs boring) TT350 barrel, I had a 350 head (needs a good clean and valve job) and I ordered a TT350 carby as well as a Keyster repair kit this morning... The SRX250 runs a 22mm carby where the TT350 is a 24mm. Others have in the past stuffed around with re-jetting the SRX carby but I prefer the TT350 carby and that way I can use standard known jetting, less hassles. My 3WP tank has arrived in Melbourne and should be shipped to me this week so I can then start on dent repairs and getting it ready for paint... Speaking of paint... I had planned on using the Ford "Ruby Red" on it but I have seen some examples of the DNA Custom Paints range and I will try that I think.. It is a more technical process but in the end I think it will be better... The colour I am going to use is called "Spilt Blood".. Maybe not a good omen for a bike but the colour is pretty schmick... So.. more to come on the little SRX in the coming days and weeks... next time I will add Pictures
The DNA Spilt Blood is a candy colour, so a 3 layer paint job is required, silver base coat, 2/3/4 coat's of colour depending on how deep you want the red to go, then 3 or 4 clear coat's on top. You can use a coarse silver metallic to make it really sparkle/shimmer in the sun (similar to 70's boat paint finishes), or can use a medium silver metallic or a fine silver base coat Most of the painted sample's are done over a fine silver metalllic Make sure when you're painting you have a consistant speed for each pass with the spray gun, and try not to get too much overlap as it'll end up darker where it's sprayed thicker as the new coat overlap's the previous coat And be careful you don't try blowing in a bit of paint where you think it look's thin, it will cover the thinner looking part, but end up with a darker ring around the edge's
Yep.. Ihave been over the DNA site a lot once I spotted it... there is a Valiant in their Youtube vids that was sprayed in Spilt Blood but over black... which has given it an entirely different look. More along what I am after.
Yep.. Darren is the one who will do the machining on the cases There was a very detailed thread in Perth Street Bikes I think about the build.. he had a lot of issues as he had to use the 350 crank ( the 250 was seized and they are very hard to find ) as well and it is longer than the 250. He also used the FZR swing arm which has its own set of problems with chain sliders etc..
Hey man thanks for setting up another discussion site in relation to these awesome little SRX 250's, Your rebuild of one, would blow away the looks of any SR 250 into the weeds. Keep up your progress photos, I love it.
So I decided to pull down my original motor that had been rebuilt so it can be converted to a 350. This will leave the matching numbers engine as stock... It is an easy strip down until you come to the flywheel. If you search for SRX250 flywheel puller you get these units that screw in via a large thread and then the bolt down the middle pushes and off it comes.. only one small problem. My SRX250 doesnt have the large internal or external thread... mine needs a plate type puller, which I had but it stripped the thread out of the plate. So now I need to go off to Bunnings and find an M10 long bolt and nut to try and get it to work... pictures of the flywheel are below. This shows the 350 barrel sitting on the cases.. there will be minimal gasket area in 1 spot.. but some Yamabond should sort that. This shows the difference between the 250 barrel and the 350 barrel... about 13mm difference The Cylinder head is different in that the combustion chamber size is larger... valves are exactly the same as are the cams Closer pic of the 250 head.. this one has been reconditioned.. valves re-cut and lapped and clearances set... so I dont really want to strip it to fix the 350 head. This is the 350 head.. I originally pinched the 2 inlet valves for the 250 head... I might try to find new valves this time. This is a shot of the flywheel... as can be seen.. there is no M27 or M24 external or internal thread... so it is definitely a plate style puller needed. This is just a shot from further back
Flywheel is different to the XT due to it being electric start, it would have the one way starter clutch on the back of it. Those 3x hole's are they threaded ? Did you undo the flywheel retainer bolt and take the washer off, then refit the bolt to the crank with a 3mm - 4mm gap between the bolt and end of the crank (not tight) so the puller centre bolt had something to push against ?
The holes are threaded and it is yes to the bolt. The thread on the puller is super fine and the load has just peeled it out of the casting. I will go and get myself an M10 or M12 bolt and nut which should solve the issue tomorrow. I hope. I was going to have a look in the service manual to see what the special tool section showed for the flywheel puller but was distracted by the V8’s from Perth. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I have a home made puller that style, it's made out of 17mm or 19mm steel, drilled and tapped in the middle with 3 slot's cut out for the bolt's
this is the one I have,its pulled a few harmonic balancers and still works http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Toledo-Harmonic-Balancer-Puller-Set-46-Piece/540299