The rear caliper was badly seized and needed a lot of “persuasion” to get it off the rear disk. It kept up the fight as I was trying to remove the pistons which were extremely seized and I eventually managed to free them using an airline which freed the piston alright………..but also sent it 15ft across the shed!! Ill cover it with a towel next time. [/URL ] So I stripped the calliper and got it ready to be repainted, I doused it in some nitromorse paint stripper, then used a toothbrush and some steel wool to remove the paint [/URL ] [/URL ] And repainted in heat resistant satin black. Then it was on to the rear master cylinder, same story it was in dire need of some attention [/URL ] [/URL ] So again I cleaned it up and repainted [/URL ] [/URL ] [/URL ] This is where I am currently, just waiting for the paint to dry so I can reassemble, I’m also waiting on a low range torque wrench to arrive so I can whip the head off and check the valve clearances, so hopefully all things going well I’m hoping to be able to start putting the bike back together next week.
ok update time: Front master cylinder/fluid reservoir was completely seized and needed a refurb, so stripped it down, gve it a bath in the ultrasonic cleaner and preped for paint. it came up real nice, certainly an improvement on what it was. If anyone knows a good tip on how to get the sight glass clean that would be nice too, theres a tiny slit to allow the fluid in but i cant get in at it with anything to clean it which is kind of annoying.
finally my c-spanner arrived so i could tighten the headstock and start rebuilding. Ladies and Gentlemen, we have rolling chassis Should really be able to see the progress from here on in, getting kinda excited now, the bike should be ready for the little bit of summer that we get this side of the world. just a couple of things, does anyone know if the footpegs and brake levers are standard enough on yamahas of this era?? im going to need a new set so if anyone has experience of getting relatively cheap generic versions and can link me up with their recommendations then that would be appreciated. also to any mods that may be reading this, i normally type up my posts in word and then paste them in here but for some reason the font colours seem to change to red when i make the post and i cant seem to edit them back. it can be a bit hard to read now that ive had time to read the thread back, just wondering if you could change the font back to black?? thanks in advance.
torque wrench has finally arrived so it was time to go play with the valve clearances, so off with the rocker cover and align the cams with TDC. then off with the cam retainers and cam chain tensioner removed: then loosen the chain and slip out the cams, i put an extension bar through the cam chain to stop it from falling into the engine. trying to keep things organised then removed the buckets and shims with a magnet, some of the numbers were faded but managed to make them out on all bar two shims, so will have to find a way of measuring them tomorrow. so thats todays work done, gonna take a trip down to the bike shop tomorrow to see if i can get my hands on the shims i need, hopefully get the engine reassembled tomorrow.
Foot rests / foot pegs https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesal...B_20170314172843&SearchText=fzr250+foot+rests Theres a couple of variations with the brake lever ... u will have to match wat u have ..... do u have a pic of yours? When text appears as red in posts its usually an active link .... your posts to me here are just in normal black font.
yeah it was dead handy, thanks for throwing it up!! @GreyImport thanks for the links, fair play. new shims arrived and were installed, had to try make a gasket for the cam chain tensioner out of gasket papaer cos the one that was in it ripped when i took it out but now finally the engine (after some serious arm wrestling) is finally back in the bike so today im going torquing up all the chassis bolts and getting the wiring back in. so anyway a question for those in the know!! does anyone knows by how much the fork leg protrudes from the top of the headstem?? i cant seem to find it in the manual, i found it in the fzr400 manual alright but 44mm seems a bit much, im thinking its around half that, but if anyone knows for sure then please let me know.
You mean how much the forks stick up out of the top triple clamp? I've always had them set flush on the ones I've owned. Not like they need quickening up in the front end, very nimble as they are. That said it's your preference. There are videos floating around from when these bikes were new in Japan and the guys riding them had the forks sticking out of the top clamp a fair bit.
Mine are level with the top, only the flange of the nut is sitting above the tripple's Give's more stability at speed with them flush at the top, mine corner's nice as it is too
yeah i was thinking they were level but couldnt remember, then started looking through the brochure and videos and could see them protruding which set a bit of doubt, heres a screen grab from a yamaha info video from 1989 they seem to be up about 20mm but screw it im gonna put them level just to be safe.
My FZR400 3TJ1 is 5mm to the top of the stanchion tube, not the cap, and that is in the manual. I don't know what model 250 you have but you could look at official pics and the brochures.
Update time: So I spent some time torqueing all the chassis bolts and putting the wiring in, I was very very glad at this stage for the time spent labelling all the connections. Also thank fook for the google translate mobile app!! [/URL ] Snipped approx. 10mm off the HT leads to make sure no Verdigris set in and ensure a better connection. [/URL ] Installed new exhaust seals and set up the exup [/URL ] Then it was time to tackle the front brakes, this turned into a bit of an ordeal and they fought me literally every step of the way!! Even the seals I ordered turned out to be too small and I had to get a new set sent out. The pistons were badly seized, compressed air wouldn’t budge them, so I had to get a little creative and hooked up the master cylinder to a spare handlebar I had lying around, set up a few G-clamps and used pieces of rubber as a seal on the channel's that joins the two halves together, and just pumped one piston out at a time. [/URL ] [/URL ] [/URL ] [/URL ] Then had to scour the country to source a new h-frame, as the original one has for some unknown reason had the brackets for the mirrors cut off. [/URL ] So here she is as of today……….. [/URL ]
the downside to all this work is of course, upon startup she now sounds like a bucket of bolts in a cement mixer!! link below, i would appreciate your thoughts, i removed the cam chain tensioner and it seems ok, do you reckon the chain may have skipped a tooth?? you cant move forward without a few setbacks but its ok, theres no rush with this project, thanks for all the help so far, couldnt have taken this on without ye guys
Does your EXUP valve rattle? Have you synced the carbs? This sometimes helps as the cylinders are pulling against each other and cause a 'rattle' of the primary gears.
yes i originally thought it was the exup as it used rattle before when the cables were disconnected but i reconnected them and now im not so sure. no the carbs havent been synced properly yet will do that tomorrow, its late over this side of the world!! for some reason the link to the video didnt show up properly so will add it again here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-6LVdXzRTTGV0xHWGFfY1VsRjA
Did u do this with the CCT? https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/fzr250-cam-chain-tensioner.3336/#post-38027 Is the oil new and has the right amount in it?
They do rattle like a bag full of spanners normally, pulling the clutch and putting it into a gear usually quietens it some, and that EXUP valve will rattle giving a tinny sound, but listening to your video it's sounds like it's not running on all cylinders - check the connections/order to the spark plugs, or am I hearing cam chain slap?
Yea if they havnt been rebuilt they sure arnt 'quiet' ..... they need a good amount of 'running' to get the oil circulating after sitting for a bit The exup has a bush on the far inside that may have fallen out https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?...-powervalve-information-and-maintenance.1099/ And yes make sure the HT leads are in the correct order https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?...eads-spark-plug-configuration-inline-4s.8176/