The only problem with INOX and Back to Black is they are oily and afterwards you wont be able to use a superfine artist brush and some white paint to get into the areas to fix the lettering... on some models they were labels that was then clear coated over.. I havent been near the garage all weekend as the "feels like" temps have been over 50 C both days so I cant tell you if my Spada controls are stickers or cast in and painted... maybe during the week but lots happening with my son and then having to go to Melb to pick up a new company wagon Thursday Friday so probably not lol
Thanks Andy, From my quick inspection. it looks like the the lettering is probably tampo printed (rubber stamp printed). I may be able to get some little decal made up and just clear over them after painting.
Could you use something like this and fit your headlight switch knob to it ? Would probably need to change the plug/socket to suit as well https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Left-Tu...303816?hash=item3d9b1bed88:g:CrAAAOSwpJxdjr0N
I bought a similar set to use on the SRX but they are absolute rubbish... very cheap plastic outers and cable size was down on OEM too...
Another little issue. I have not stripped the motor yet. Does anyone know if all SPADAs VT250J,K &L all have the same cam chains? I have seen listings for both 128 link and 130 link. I think the 130 link looks correct. Can anyone count the links and advise on correct type?
Impex site says 128 link for the Borg Warner chain. This is shown as a different part number to the VT25R250 engine which may be why 1 is 128 and the other 130 links
The Australian Spada listing vt250L is for 130 links. So I am confused. I need a real count of links thanks.
If you bothered to have a look that is a correct model Japanese parts manual. What “site” are you getting your info from? Only other option is for you to pull your engine down as I don’t think anyone on here has one in pieces. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Hi Andy, Sorry no disrespect. The information that I found came from this link https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/honda-vt250l-spada-parts-list-1990.206/ Here is an extract.
So, looks like a physical count is need to clear up the confusion. I just thought someone might actual have the information at hand. I will pull mine down and count the links in the next few days. I was trying to get ahead by ordering some parts in advance. Peter.
Note: The part number is the same in both references but the description is different!!!!!! Clearly one has the be incorrect!!
This Australian parts link also lists the chain as having 130 links https://c8software.com.au/bikeshop/...250-spada/cam-chain-tensioner#partid-33025437
The Parts breakdown on Impex is a scanned copy of an original item... not sure where the one in resources came from... but when you do a search on the part number both 128 and 130 link show up as genuine Honda part for the Spada so I dont believe it will make a difference which one you get. Obviously the 130 link ones will be longer but in the grand scheme of things it shouldnt matter if they are both specified. Best bet as you say is to count the links. If you are not going to pull the heads I would just mark 1 chain and turn the engine over slowly counting the links until it comes back around. Not much point pulling it all the way down if the noise is just cleaning out the hydraulic tensioners..
I believe both chains are the same length. I will be pulling down to he entire engine to dova full refresh. It does take a while to build oul pressure so the bottom end is in need of a refresh. It looks like the cam chain tensioners were at the limit of their adjustment, which probably is contributing to the noise. Hence my concern about chain length. The chain being a bit too long would not help the situation.
Just a bit of clarification on the cam chain tensioners for others. As best as I can make out, after removing the tensioners, they are NOT hydraulically activated/assisted. The tension on the chain is provided by a spring (fairly lightweight). Oil is able to collect in the back of the tensioning piston mechanism, but it is not pressure fed. The oil appears to just dampen the movement of the tensioner mechanism to account for any shock/resonance in the chain. The mechanism is manufactured as a non serviceable assembly. The spring and damping piston can not be removed without butchering the entire assembly. In my case the tensioners appeared to be able to move over the full length of travel (until they hit the limit stop for the piston). Travel does not seem to be limited by gunk build up in the damping piston assembly (I will clean them all the same). It looks like the solution in my case is to replace the stretched chains with newer/shorter ones.
Chains stretch and on my old FZR it was 5mm longer than a new one and noisy as hell. It had a mechanical ratchet tensioner though.
Suzuki engines tend to use a ratchet chain tension also. Never seen one give problems, although some people replace them with a bolt adjustable mechanism. The ratchet mechanisms do not back off as the chain stretches, but obviously there is a limit to how much chain stretch they can cater for.
OK! Chain length resolved. I counted the links in one of my timing chains. 128 links!!!!! SO THE PART LIST REFERENCE IN THE RESOURCES AREA IS INCORRECT (at least the description is).
Good to know.....one mystery resolved, be careful with making sure you know which big end bearing is with which conrod as typically Honda they dont have sizes per-se they are colour coded and you need to plastigauge them to determine if they are within service limits etc. Check the clearances in the Oil Pump as well... could be that and not the bearings.