I had a 1999 Yamaha Zeal jump in my trailer and follow me home yesterday... more about that in the future.. Today I actually did some more work on the SRX...tidied up some of the wiring.. zip ties etc to ensure it is all snug. Then I started looking at the sorting the headlight mount bracket.. It is an SRX600 item but it needed some changes to suit the SRX... so bottom brackets cut off and trimmed up.. now ready to weld back up in the right position for the SRX... I really need some good weather so I can paint a few items and put the front end back together...
tried to take my t500 for a spin on Saturday, it was running very badly. I nursed it to the shop and finally had time today to investigate. no spark on the rh pot, after much tooing and froing and chasing wires, it appears the one of the optical sensors for the electronic ignition has died. I have e-mailed the vendor hoping for confirmation of my suspicions, a new sensor is $77 where as a new kit is $280
Man it feels good to be back working on the ZXR. Today, I landed my crank trigger concerns for the standalone. The stock timing trigger only has 4 points on it. That’s suboptimal for timing control. I drafted up a 36-1 wheel in the same size as the stocker- 3d printed a prototype for fitment and when it fit, exported a DXF and sent the part for be laser cut in 3mm steel. They made me meet a minimum order, so now I have 21 spares but small price to pay I guess! I’m hoping to have the trigger wheels in by Friday- let’s see what happens!
Ordered a new optical sensor today, the aus disty said the failure rate on these are almost non existent he didn’t have any spare, but pulled a kit Apart to me going
Today I spent time building a mount for the standalone ECU. I’ll print and test fit it tomorrow- I don’t want to listen to the printer all night. it uses what used to be the left side coil mounts, and will mount it upright inside the front corner where the air pump thingie used to be.
Stripped, Cleaned, Primed and Painted the Caliper on the GSX250, I know its not the factory colour but I think it will look ok Printed some custom stickers at work too to go on the caliper! Anyone know where I can buy a brake piston in Australia? So far im only seeing them overseas
Why not on the rear subframe where the old ecu was? Less heat. Those reg/rec had issues and the snorkels were basically there for cooling - just seems like a bad spot.
that was the first place I tried. The amount of wiring I had to run made this a marginal solution- getting the wiring back up to the engine, and handling the AMP connector didn’t seem great. I might relocate it later, especially if the coils output EMI and cause issues. overall tho, the wiring bundle is tough back there. And yeah I discovered it’s probably time for a reg-rec, when I unplugged mine it was all melty plug.
Ooooh! An unexpected surprise showed up today, 22 crank trigger wheels! I mean, sure I only needed one, but minimum orders and all... Now to scribe and drill one. I have a scribe template to replicate the OEM marks, just have to print it, scribe it, and drill the indexing holes (which I couldn’t figure out how to locate in the drawing so I saved to do it live from the stock wheel). So that’ll be today’s fun for me, I’m just excited they showed up a day early!
If you can spare them, can you put aside 1 or 2 of those 22 for me please. I'll wait until you've done all the hard work to get a care package sent over from your end. I've always wanted to advance the timing on a stock ZXR by a degree or two and the timing wheel seems like the only way to do it.
All the hard work is done My question becomes though, are you on standalone? 'cause on the stock trigger, I don't see how this would advance it. I'd almost be better off drafting a slotted keyway timing wheel instead with the stock number of teeth though. Regardless, I made you one just now. It'd be trivial to turn out 21 more as long as you don't mind my hand scribed marks for timing. If anyone else needs one or two, I'm down to help the cause, but I'm not trying to A: become a business or B: butt in on sponsored vendor territory so it'd be good to know the rules there.
Moving the holes slightly forward or backward on a standard wheel would/should retard or advance the timing. I think if you draw a line from the TDC (T1/4) mark to the TDC(T2/3) mark, the crank positioning holes will just touch the line. I'll use the standard marks for timing the valves and setting them, but being able to to advance the firing should give the engine a pit more power...maybe. I've always wanted to try it, but never got around to making a wheel to do it. Interested to hear what others on here think about this modification?
Ok- you and I are five-by-five then. The problem with using the 36-1 on the stock setup is that the teeth don’t align perfectly with the OE ones. What I should do is make a new wheel in OEM style, but where the 3mm index holes are, make that a slot, say 5 degrees either way on both so you can dial that in. Conversely, leave them round and non adjustable, but make a set of 3 pre-indexed for 1, 2, or 3 degrees timing advance. Lemme play this weekend- I’m all ears for other peoples ideas as well!
Also of note, those index holes are on slightly different arcs, they’re not on one distance from center. One falls further under the bolt head than the other.
Yes, I think the T1/4 and T2/3 marks go through the dead centre of the wheel and the alignment holes are to the left of that imaginary line. I don't recall how many degrees before TDC the firing (F) occurs, but I'd only ever want to advance the timing, so the alignment holes would be moved a smidge counter clockwise. I think your second idea "Conversely, leave them round and non adjustable, but make a set of 3 pre-indexed for 1, 2, or 3 degrees timing advance" is best for fine tuning, but your original idea "...make a new wheel in OEM style, but where the 3mm index holes are, make that a slot, say 5 degrees either way on both so you can dial that in" might be best for quick changing timing. Whatever you do will be of benefit to our Turbo ZXR project that @Murdo is working on.
Holy crap, this is awesome! Im presuming you added the cross piece to the frame to hold the link, right? What's it off of? Third gen monster?
So the F mark (I was wondering what it stood for!) is 20* before TDC. The index holes are definitely left of the T/BDC centerline, but what I was getting at is that more importantly- they're at different distances from center- ever so slightly. They're not symmetrical (1.9 and 2.4mm from the edge of the center hole) to prevent upside down installation I guess. It'll make creating those index arcs a little tougher- I can't just draw a circle at X distance from center and cut two grooves out. That said, with the turbo though, I'm wondering if you might wanna retard it overall- trade timing for boost level maybe? Look at how all the turbo LS guys go, they might never get over 12-15* total timing. If you knock 10 degrees out and gain 2lb of boost before detonation, it might be a decent trade? I'm gonna finish up some meetings and training for the day, and get on drafting this up for shits and giggles- 'cause its not like I need one but this seems fun!