nah nah i don't use that crap , it destroys everything it touches, i usually run 95 in it. filled up 3 days ago. Also redid the leads and measured coils again , they are fine but turns out 3/4 spark plugs are dead. They will spark to the sides or not spark at all. when I tested it with new plugs the spark is bright blue and between both electrodes. Time to buy some new plugs. It has ngk cr9eh9 in it??? Workshop manual says ngk cr9e
Yes use standard CR9E or CR9EK dual electrode plugs if you like. I have a set of CR9EIX iridiums going in tomorrow, along with spark plug seals and some more goodies from megazip
NGK CR9E NGK CR9EH-9 C - Thread Size / Hex Size: 10 mm / 5/8" (16.0 mm) R - Resistor Heat Rating Number - 9 EH - Thread Reach: Partial Thread 19 mm (3/4" Total Reach) 12.7 mm (1/2" Total Thread) -9 - Spark GAP: 0.9 mm (.036") CR9EIX are NGK Irridium spark plug's THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN SPARK PLUGS First, sparks like to jump from the sharpest point on the center electrode to the sharpest point on the side electrode. So you want a plug that retains its sharp edge for the most miles. Precious metals like platinum and iridium are harder and have higher melting temperatures than the nickel alloy electrodes found in traditional copper spark plugs. Second, the smaller the diameter of the center electrode, the lower the voltage needed to start the spark.
Sorted out finally . Got my hands on a new set of correct plugs . Turns out it had the wrong ones in it and the h9 is massively different . Tried em out and it started 1st go. As you can see the centre electrode is thinner, barely protruding unlike the other as well as having a thread all the way down. The other wouldn`t be sealing properly,not go all the way into the cylinder as well as potentially destroy the head . I was very lucky
That is why using the correct plugs is critical - you don't want the end of a plug kissing a piston or a valve.
Ok so i`ve measured the regulator and it tests good so i`ve put new plugs on it and added some more ground etc . when its idling it reads 14.2 and bringing the revs up its 15v so i think the reg is toasted . also it now has a hesitation at 6000 to 7500 rpm and won`t rev past 16000
Yes the regulator is toasted, you should not see above 14.5v at any RPM, generally speaking. If you keep riding it you will boil the battery and stand a good chance of blowing globes and killing electrics. New, good quality reg/rec ASAP. The hesitation you are talking about is caused by air leaks. The usual sources are carby manifolds, vacuum lines, airbox seals and o-rings on the vent lines of the carbs. The latter requires you to split the carb banks, pull the T-pieces and replace the seals. When you say it doesn't rev past 16k, is that in neutral or on the road? It is usually the speed limiter circuit.
You have an A & C model & mentioned previously you tried the other ignitor, did you change them back?
Yep has the original ignitor again, linkin was right just checked the plugs on the gauges . i didn`t plug it in all the way ,must've not had a good connection . Now it`s fine it will rev all the way to redline. Also i made a mistake it`s actually hesitating between 5-6k rpm. I`ve ordered a new reg so that should be here in a few weeks. The carbs are fully rebuild linkin with all new orings,needles and seats, they are also synced .
What about the manifolds and vacuum lines? Airbox seals? If you've done those and it still has that flat spot, you're in the same boat as me, I can't seem to get rid of it... I'm convinced it needs a dyno tune and rejet now
Yep changed all the vac lines, haven`t checked the manifolds but they visually look ok with no cracks, airbox gaskets looked good so i didn`t change them