Water pump not working or not working properly would be my guess. Especially if you've already done everything else. I assume you're using an anti-boil coolant?
Not sure what your point is mate? Anti boil coolant has a higher boiling point than normal water...? Something like this: And Delboy's smarter than your average backyard Joe...
Increased boiling point is all well and good, but straight water has the best heat transfer capability. We use glycol in coolant to prevent freezing, not because it doesn't boil. (And actually it burns and is flammable). Glycol also expands with heat more than water does. Corrosion inhibitors are added to prevent corrosion, obviously. Water boils at 100deg c at sea level and at atmospheric pressure. Pressure on the fzr cooling system is 0.9 bar, which is on top of atmospheric pressure. Anti-boil is a moot point, bs marketing wank. Risky's bike has bubbles coming from the cap. That is at atmospheric pressure, and it is compression gasses escaping and coolant being sucked in and burnt. Ive been there myself with an fzr. Safe to say the heas gasket has gone. As for delboy on youtube he is a proven corporate shill flogging stuff that doesnt work, and nowhere as smart as he thinks he is. In my opinion.
Wow uhh ok. Give me some benefit of the doubt, I'm not naive enough to think that anti-boil literally means it won't boil. The BP of the liquid can be raised by adding stuff to it. That's one of the reasons you don't use water only (given that water will also rust your system substantially). I've used water in my system and it's boiled at idle, put coolant in and it doesn't. Maybe it's not a massive difference but there was a difference. I don't care to argue much about Delboy - but I don't think a couple of PVC plastic pipes and a pipe clamp constitute the characteristics of a corporate monkey. It's not like I idolise the guy but I can do fork seals very easily and save myself the ridiculous money charged to do such a simple job... winner in my books.
Had a few problems with the charging system. Have changed stator (getting 30+ volts AC) and the rectifier (tests good) but am only getting 12.4 volts DC at the battery. What am I missing here? Ran the bike with only water in system after flushing and made a 'jumper' wire so the fan is on all the time and the gauge doesn't get above half way, but still little bubbles coming up when run without cap. Will need some attention after the drag races (if Risky doesn't blow it up as he predicts) but need to get the charging sorted to run the fan all the time.
What is the reg/rec output voltage testing at? I.e. not connected to battery? Is there a fuse for the charging circuit that has blown? If both those good then bad battery is the only explanation id say.
1. What's the DC voltage at the reg/rec pins. If it's under 13V it's stuffed. 2. If the DC voltage at the pins is above 13V your battery is toast. 3. Have you checked the fuses. My 400 has a fuse for the charging circuit that when blown won't charge my battery despite the reg/rec and stator testing fine. 4. Could be a bad earth somewhere I suppose... but I reckon that's unlikely. 5. Broken wire somewhere?
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/faqs.php?action=1&id=30 Might need to do a voltage drop test on the battery lead's too, and between the reg/rect and the battery
I just want to be part of that message - we've probably been red flagged by ASIO and Border Force because of the words hydrazine and explode
used to be used in drag racing before nitro methane but was banned.doubt if gunnedah would fuel test.
Isnt that the stuff in moth balls? way way back we use to throw a hand full of moth balls into the tank, nfi if it made any difference but never had probs with moths
Just strap a nitrous kit on to it... Hide the bottle under the seat Winner... as long as it holds together
