It is all together, running, tuned, brakes bled and test ridden around block. Seems to go well (only went to 8,000rpm as it is still running in new crank bearings).
i found some off another wrecked bike i had.looking forward to running it in and being on historic plates come january 2nd. then the gunnedah drags against an mc19 come march.
will be even better doing a hot 1/8th at gunnedah.lol. ct18, cutting polish and a wax is in order. see you friday arvo and time trials on that back road on saturday.
I wonder if this will fit your carbies... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/fre...8aa7-44ce-bd8f-bbca6cef6c77&priceBeautifyAB=0
Does it boil or is it cylinder head gasket leak? All bikes should boil at idle if the fan doesn't kick in. It just usually takes a long time from cold. Check the thermostat is opening and pump is making the coolant flow.
changed the instrument panel, temperature and fan switch, replaced radiator and fan with other units and fan worked on jumper leads from battery but is not coming on in bike.changed thermostat as well. new coolant. when motor first start the water level is sucked down.need the mongrel to work for the drags in a few weeks. can ride the cbx supersport at the vjmc weekend but really wanted to show how those little screamers go. are well murdo is casting an eye on it friday.
Sound's like there is still air in the system? When you fill it, do it at idle speed and make sure you tilt the bike at a few different angle's and keep the coolant topped up as air come's out Lean the handlebar's onto a wall if needed
But if the coolant level drops when started, then it seems the pump works. The fan may not kick in until 102-107°C (over boiling point), so you have to have the cap on (and working) to get the fan to start. Alternatively, manual fan switch.
I'm very interested to know your thoughts on the quality of the chinese parts - specifically the bearing shells, both rod and main. I assume you ran plastiguage and were pleased with the results.
No I don't like plastigauge, I prefer to measure with micrometer. They all came withing .001 of each other when checked for thickness, ovality and crush, so I was happy to use them. As for their lasting poweress, that depends on how many revs the operator gives the engine running it in and how quickly the oil pump can get pressure to the bearings. I always like to 'prime' an engine after a rebuild by spinning on the starter without the plugs installed until I can see oil coming out of the cam bearings (the oil has to fill the crank bearings and galleries before going to head), then fit spark plugs and fuel and fire it up. I run the same bearings in my CBR250R that I use for drag racing (in two different engines now) and although have not done many Kms, they have been hard Kms for engine bearings with no problems.