When it comes to setting fuel levels on a zxr 250, everyone just sets each float to roughly the same height-manual states 13mm +/-2mm, but why guess? Theres another method in the manual that actually measures your fuel level & should be done prior to adjusting any float heights. No one can use this method though, because you need Kawasaki's "special" fuel gauge, lets have a look at this guage Its nothing more than a tube with 10×1mm increments with 3 highlighted marks. The manual states 9.5mm +/-1mm from the mark,9.5mm being the total fuel range in the guage & the mark they refer too is the middle mark +/-1mm. Luckily for all theres a fuel guage in every chemist in the form of a 10ml syringe, a 2ml range in the syringe has all the markings needed over a 10mm long length. Another problem doing fuel levels this way, there is only carb body #4 visible to measure off This method makes it near impossible to measure fuel in carb #1 against carb body #4 mark unless it is horizontally perfectly level, ive had floats in a perfect gradient ie 12mm/12.5mm/13mm/13.5mm trying it that way. The best way is to seperate the carbs & mark each float bowl separately so that the fuel level can be measured against its own body. Another thing to consider will be supporting the carbs in a position so that the fuel mark is horizontal, but the carbs are stable & easy to work around. I use an old cd holder or even an old head. You will also need an auxiliary fuel can & 20cm clear hose 5mm I.d. TAKING THE MEASUREMENT Im using numbers 4-6 as my measuring range for this test so I must keep the 6 above the mark at all times. This is how I hold the guage in place to free up my hands. Now undo the drain screw a few turns, this is usually what happens, an air bubble, just pinch the hose at the fuel bowl end to bleed all the air out & wait till the fuel settles. Now lower the guage until the top mark (which is 6 in this case) is horizontal with the mark on the carb, making sure to never drop below the mark, a perfect reading would be 5 +/-1mm. Its best to measure & record all 4 carbs before draining fuel & making adjustments, if the fuel height needs raising, raise the tang, lower fuel, lower the tang. Would of been nice if Kawasaki just said 5mm below the mark +/-1mm but hey, they charge 30$+ for that guage. You will have to wrap your syringe in clear tape also as the numbers are not fuel proof
Lets say I wanted to pretend your excellent guide didn't exist and insist on measuring the float height instead.. Do any of you know which angle the carbs need to be at? Found an excellent youtube video that shows what I'm after: Haven't been able to spot a post about this except everyone repeating that the float height should be at 13+/-2 mm...
I think as long as the line in the carby body casting is horizontal you should be right, if the carby sat at a different angle then Keihin would have had the line in the casting at a different angle to compensate
This is how the manual shows it done, no set angle, the needles need to be seated with as little weight from the floats on the spring as possible.