Hi all, I have recently and stupidly bought an FZR250R to play with. I say stupidly because i work long hours and have 2 small children and it has some niggling issues...wheres the time..thats why i'm here to speak to experts with big expert hats. Ive had quite a few bikes and been on lots of adventures(including the transamerica trail). I do like this little bike and it punches well above it's weight...just got to get it 100%. Hope to speak to those who will listen and glad to join the club. Richard
Hey all, Thanks for the warm welcome. Rather than ask silly questions i thought i would blaze through the posts and see if my issues were covered...and yes...great site...lots of very informative and detailed posts. I sorted some easy stuff and then hit a brick wall with the carbies. I did the academic thing to adjust the floats and didnt get far. The empirical fuel height measurement with transparent pipe worked well. Not perfect..but neither am i....so the levels are in the ball park and engine revs well to the red, so just have to try it under load....so im a novice at at float heights, but with all the faffing around i would consider myself an expert with legendary status at getting them carbies and air box on and off & on/off, on & off....... One thing i still need to address is the exup valve. I have hard wired it open because the old cable was stuffed and awaiting a new one. Has anyone got first hand experience of the difference with having it operating correctly and fixed open as i have it....what's the real difference ( as opposed to an academic thread). Keep well all and hope to hear your response and post more.
The carby's are alway's fun on FZR's, had mine off and on too maybe 10 time's now, but the syncing, tuning and testing has taken the most time, probably spent over 30 hour's playing before i got them right. Glad i haven't had to touch them for a long time now though. Which model FZR250R do you have ? Wiring the EXUP open you would lose a lot of down low performance until the engine reach's 10,000 rpm
67, you feeling my pain. Did you use a manometer to sync?...i used one in my youth without success. Ah ok..i'll try the valve operating and then fixed full on and see how it goes. My bikes no show pony, its a $600 on the road special that needs some TLC. I am fascinated by the amount of technology they put in a little 250 though..it's got all the fruit and more than what they put in some of the big bikes. Mines an 89 1hx..i guess that makes it a 2kr? It's got the steel frame and single front brake rotor. It's all there and going so with a bit of elbow grease it should come good. My next worry is the blue and blue/red wire from the ignition have been cut yet everyting is working...there is also a red wire which is live and not switched...electrics is not my strong point but i'm sure ill figure it out in the next decade. Thanks for the advise.
Your's would be a 3HX2 or 3HX3 then, the engine/frame number 's last 6 digit's will tell you for sure, but they're generally referred to as a 2KR like you said. Yeah i used a home made manometer first, then have resynced it after i bought a new Morgan Carbtune Pro sync tool a few time's when tuning It's amazing how the sync changes after just changing the mixture screw setting's a little, and when you drop the idle speed a touch But the engine really purr's when you get it spot on
Welcome, lots of good people here. Read @my67xr thread about tuning his bike. Definitely the definitive guide to Fizzer tuning. My guide to rebuilding Mikuni's might also come in handy. https://litetek.co/Guide_MikuniBDST_Rebuild.html
Thanks for all the great advice guys. I have to be honest i stuffed around for a while and never got the carbs 100% - so i cheated - I bought some off ebay that had been rebuilt, floats set and synced - $200. It now goes like a little bullet..quite amazed. Thanks for all the helpful advice.
Good thing you explained what that was for a minute there I thought you were gettin ready to do a transfusion
