Hi Guys... Wondering what I can do here... if anything. Number 14 is the one I'm looking at - I think. Was removing the exhaust valves today and I pushed one through that was a little tight, after jiggling it back and forward I'm not sure what happened but this little bit fell off, it almost looks like it broke the metal it was sitting on. Don't know if that means it was broken before or whether I pushed it too hard with my finger who knows. The question now is.. can it be fixed? You can see the one on the left is normal, the one on the right has snapped off. Pretty gutted about it but I'm not exactly sure what it would do. It seems the plastic piece that sits on this is a shim that stops the valve from being opened too far? The spring would keep it closed when the cam is not pushing on it. So if I left it... what would happen to the operation of this valve? I may have to try some kind of high temp epoxy to try and fix it but have to be careful not to add to the height of the shim or it may mean the valve doesn't open fully when compressed by the cam. Thoughts...?
Number 14 it the oil seal to stop the oil running down the valve and getting burnt in the cylinder. There should be a new set (of 16) with your gasket set. These are normally replaced when ever the valves are removed from the head for reseating, as removing the valve through the seal can 'pull' the sealing edge away from the fitting and cause a smokey exhaust. No, it is not a shim to stop the valve opening too far. The spring will coil bind before the collet holder touches the seal.
Ah, that makes sense. Hmm... how the heck would you replace these anyway? It looks like the plastic cap just sits on the outside of a moulded metal stem that sits in the spring hole... Not sure if this situation can be fixed very easily though...
It looks like it's uhh... broken off at the metal...? If I'm reading this correctly the "stem" itself is broken at the tip, meaning even if I can replace the seal I may be in a bit of trouble.
Are you saying that the steel valve guide, the piece that is part of the head that the seal pushes onto, has broken off?
How do stu..good to see your hard at it m8..think your starting to get through to the cause of the poor running if that's your bandit engine..and deffo closer to why it was smoking ! Not sure what you mean by the bit broken off..but what you've got there is as murdo says a valve stem oil seal..I've just had a rummage in my spare parts boxes and have come up with a couple of valves (one inlet and one exhaust) plus a few valve stem seals (there an upgraded part with two metal type collar bands which prevent the lower seal breaking apart lol)..i'll try and attach a picture in a bit..welcome to have them if you send us your postal address free of charge mate..I reckon on changing them (valve seals) all at the same time as 'ideal' practice but there not cheap, x16..but I deffo wouldn't reassemble with a broken one or use any kind of epoxy..it wont withstand the vibration or the speed at which the valve goes up and down...Hope this helps fella and keep up the good work and posts..this baby will go a dream when done!! Cheers si
...Just looked at your pictures closer stu..reckon it is indeed a broken valve stem guide but cant really see it properly for sure with some of it stuck inside the valve stem seal..i shall have a look to see if I can find you one..the stem guide that is..if your going to reuse the original valve that this came from then check it..recheck it and recheck it again for scorching scouring, stem thickness and straightness..highly likely it may be damaged m8..but those new valves above will sort that fine boss Si
I agree Simon, looks like the guide has given way, new head for the bandit ? Has anyone successfully fitted an Across motor in a Bandit ? I have a complete Across motor here
How do kiffsta!! ..and before you ask I'll get back on the rest of that manual upload..think stu u'll need the next chapter soon lol!!! New head not sure as stu's keeping his cards close to his chest..if that's all that's wrong with it I'd go for a quick rebuild just to get it back on the road..but deffo be easier to slot a known 'good' one on and possibly cheaper too..across engine into a bandit..there's a thought..pretty much the same engine..not an expert on the mounting bolts as you'd need to scrutinise the differences (if any ??) but if your suggesting what I think your suggesting then stu..take up kiffsta's offer!!! On a similar note I shall put up some pictures of the fairing coming along hoping to have it finished this week..then MOT or roadworthiness test ready for summer Cheers si
I'm not trying to keep anything close to my chest Simon lol Everything inside the head looks pretty good but I don't think I need to remove the intake valves. I took the exhaust ones out because it was so carbonated I was thinking they may leak. Then I came across this broken bit - I could have broken it myself who knows. I can actually remove the cap from the top if need be, but the piece inside has broken off with it so I'm assuming that is the valve stem guide itself...? No freakin' idea what to call it but it's the bit the cap sits on. I don't know if it can be replaced, or if it could, how I would even go about it. I heard they were pressfit which makes it a bit difficult.
To get out u need a punch right size that goes into a hammer air tool have done many times on car heads during my apprenticeship if u take to any engine rebuilding should do it for f all
