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Project Tony's project ZXR250A

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by TonyZXR, Apr 28, 2018.

  1. TonyZXR

    TonyZXR Active Member Premium Member

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    Also they`re the brakes all painted and i re-did the oil pressure sender as i wasnt happy how i mounted. I mean new chinese is still going to be better than worn oem
     
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  2. Frankster

    Frankster See the World before you leave it Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    They're Chinesium units for standard 48mm pistons. @Murdo has used Chinesium rings in some of his builds and hasn't found them to be too bad. They're cheap enough that you could try them and see how it goes. Not sure if anyone on this site has done a ZXR250A engine with Chinesium rings. If your bores are within specs, then a hone and new rings might be all she needs.
     
  3. TonyZXR

    TonyZXR Active Member Premium Member

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    Well with 56k kms It wouldnt surprise me if the bores are past the limits . Contemplating swaping the engine from my C model into it but i don`t really want to go butchering up an A model
     
  4. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    Have a measure of the bores and if there is any doubt then go oversize and start with fresh bores, pistons and rings.
    That oil pressure sender set up you have is putting a lot of weight on that one small brass thread at the bottom. Brass fittings don't like vibration and I suggest that you put some sort of a bracket (maybe back to an engine case bolt) to stop it from failing, as that could cost you an engine (or worse) if it broke and lost all the oil.
     
  5. TonyZXR

    TonyZXR Active Member Premium Member

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    Progress time :)
    Finished my exhaust i made out of some scrap i had laying around. Walker oem resonator from a ve commodore and tip i had laying around. Machined the flange on the lathe from 10mm steel plate with a groove for the original gasket and then m6 holes tapped into it . Finished with some exhaust paint and polished the muffler and tip as they're stainless steel

    20180724_181734-1.jpg 20180724_181749-1.jpg 20180724_182039-1.jpg 20180724_182101-1.jpg

    Nice 1.2kg weight reduction over stock not that it'll make a noticeable difference :lolsign:

    Onto the front wheel. A very good clean and polish got most of the brake dust and gunk off it.

    20180727_181246.jpg
    On the first ride i noticed it had a bad whirring noise. Turns out 1 of the wheel bearings was stuffed , looks like water got in it soo...

    20180727_181430.jpg

    Turns out i had some 6203 bearings laying around. Pretty common bearing size which is nice

    Front fork time
    20180727_190658.jpg 20180727_190705.jpg 20180727_190748.jpg 20180727_191039.jpg
    Man oh man were they bad:(. Closer inspection reveals they have not been apart ever . Fork oil reeked and look like black engine oil. Not much came out . Lots of sludge inside , had to degrease and hose out the tubes they were so bad. Bearing didn't look too bad and the chrome is perfect which is lucky.

    20180727_194803.jpg

    Once it was all back together i sanded off all the corrosion and paint chips on the bottom of the fork and gave it a nice coat of silver and clearcoat

    20180727_181235.jpg

    Also unsiezed the adjusters and gave them a nice polish

    20180730_184441.jpg

    Pulled out the steering head bearings . They were in great condition so i just greased and reassembled it after repainting the bottom which was all rusty

    20180730_184501.jpg
    Also noticed i put the brake line on backwards :headbang:
    Painted and rebuilt the rear caliper then bled it and adjusted it to spec
    Also adjusted the gearshifter to spec while i was there

    20180730_184406.jpg

    Then lastly i cleaned and painted the front rotors as they would've been originally then reassembled the front end

    20180730_184511.jpg
     

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  6. Frankster

    Frankster See the World before you leave it Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Hey Tony, Great work. Did you use any special tools to pull apart and put back together the USD forks?
     
  7. sharky

    sharky Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Im really liking those fork lowers, what paints were used? @Frankster Im doing forks as we speak, I use a 18mm double ended plug wrench with another that fits on the end, that lets you hold the fork cylinder enough to crack the allen bolt underneath. 20180731_104132.jpg
     
  8. TonyZXR

    TonyZXR Active Member Premium Member

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    Only things i used was a tool i made to hold the damper rod and another tool to wedge between the spring and top cap . i also made a tool to suck out the correct amount of fork oil when doing the levels . The paint i used is vht caliper paint . cast aluminium colour and then clearcoat on top
     
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  9. TonyZXR

    TonyZXR Active Member Premium Member

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    Well that escalated quickly . Was just supposed to take a few bolts off for plating...

    20180925_173938.jpg
    And then ....

    received_172191713684681.jpeg
     
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  10. TonyZXR

    TonyZXR Active Member Premium Member

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    Photo dump time... so while everything is getting plated and the bike is looking like this (wheels and suspension are off now as well) I decided to tear down the engine so I can start ordering parts

    20180925_201953.jpg
    20180925_201844.jpg 20180925_203432.jpg
    Initial inspection looks good, no sludging at all , cams look perfect and so does the journals .

    20180925_203519.jpg 20180925_203527.jpg
    Think the timing chain has stretched just a tad haha, chain guides are absolute rubbish with one full of cracks and nearly falling apart and the tensioner is also highly worn. Valver cover is also pretty gouged from the loose chain. Oil line to the head also has two pinholes in it which leak a oil when running

    20180925_201457.jpg
    Someones had an accident before and repaired the sump. Not very impressed with the way it looks:(

    20180925_201429.jpg
    Wonder how old this filter is , they're all made in china now

    20180925_201410.jpg

    Exhaust ports look fairly good with little carbon buildup and they're all about the same

    20180925_201230.jpg
    probably the worst intake port which is still not bad
    20180925_222838.jpg
    Don't know how visible it is but the headgasket failed on cylinder 3 which was the also the sparkplug that usually had coolant on it when I pulled it out causing a misty exhaust when running and compression in the coolant overflow . And you also see where it failed from the water gallery to the oil drain holes making the oil and coolant mix as well. Everything looks fairly decent with no cracks after I cleaned it off good . Cylinders look very good too with no lip and only 1 light scratch . Pistons also look good with very minimal scuff marks . Hopefully the bores will measure up good as well as the rings that are in it , would rather reuse the rings if they're good than questionable chinese ones if i can help it, likewise with the valves (Genuine pistons and rings are not available in standard or 0.5 over size)

    Buy list so far starting from the top:
    • Valve cover gasket $31 (greyimportspares)
    • valve cover bolt seals x4 $18.48 (partzilla)
    • Spark plug tube gaskets x4 $17.20 (greyimportspares)
    • Both timing chain guides $78 (greyimportspares)
    • Timing chain $75 (greyimportspares)
    • Timing chain tensioner $25 (megazip)
    • Valve stem seals x16 $102.24 (partzilla)
    • Oil line (Unobtainium, will have to get one made $$ unknown)
    • Valve adjustment shims x16 worst case scenario $80 (precisionshims)
    • Camshaft cap o-rings $15.08 (partzilla)
    • Headgasket $53 (greyimportspares)
    • Cylinder base gasket $23 (greyimportspares)
    • Piston rings (maybe)
    • Gearbox countershaft seal $5.80 (megazip)
    • Gearshifter shaft seal $5.70 (greyimportspares)
    • Thermostat $43 (greyimportspares)
    • Thermostat o-ring $3.50 (megazip)
    • coolant pipe gasket
    • Clutch cover gasket $14.80 (greyimportspares)
    • Oil pan gasket $19 (greyimportspares)
    • stator cover gasket $9 (megazip)
    • Oil pickup tube seal $6.81 (partzilla)
    • Water pump seal and gasket
    • Pretty much every coolant hose and vac hose
    • radiator mounting grommets x4 $16.84 (partzilla)
    • tailight grommets x2 $6.80 (partzilla)
    • tailight damper $2.81 (partzilla)
    • fuel tank rubbers x2 $7 (megazip)
    • battery bracket rubbers x2 $8.54 (partzilla)
    • conrod bolts maybe
    • shift lever rubber $3.41 (partzilla)
    • sparkplugs $24.28 (partzilla)
    • oil filter $12.20 (partzilla)
    • rear shock c spanner 15.50 (partzilla)
    • Wiring harness clip
    • Rear subframe wiring harness clips
    • All fairing bolts
    • Chain slider (no longer available so no idea where im going to get one)
    • airbox seal
    • Gearshifter rubber
    • front master cylinder dust boot
    • caliper slider boot
    • both handlebar grips
    • gauge dampener
    • key
    • fuel tank warning label
    • ebox frame stickers
    • Radiator steel bushing
    TOTAL SO FAR: $643 :(
    Not sure how far into it I want to go being that the con-rod bolts are non reusable
    Oil pickup had little bits of gasket in it , oil pan had no metal in it at all , oil filter had some very fine brass particles in it which is probably just from the clutch .
     

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  11. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member

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    What colour paint did you use on the Calipers and the disc.. they look really good.. I am trying to decide on the correct colour for my Calipers etc.
     
  12. TonyZXR

    TonyZXR Active Member Premium Member

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    This stuff with the satin clear on top. Make sure to cure it in the oven so it`s nice and durable when reassembling
    :)
    jug8.png
     
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  13. Frankster

    Frankster See the World before you leave it Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    New ones are still available from Kawasaki (well, they were 2 years ago).
     
  14. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member

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    Do ARP do any bolts for them?
    They do a good range of bolts for old Honda 4’s, might be worth checking.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
  15. TonyZXR

    TonyZXR Active Member Premium Member

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    new ones are available they're just 8 bucks each already adding to the large bill haha
     
  16. Frankster

    Frankster See the World before you leave it Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    The ZXR bolts Tony is referring to are TTY and have a specific head, so need to use factory stuff. Be great if ARP did make a replacement. As Tony said, they're $8 each from Kawasaki.
     
  17. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member

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    Just dont worry about changing Big end bearings then..Simples :)
     
  18. TonyZXR

    TonyZXR Active Member Premium Member

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    Well I was just supposed to clean the wiring harness buttt ended up retaping it so it looked nice and new again

    20180929_215459.jpg 20180929_222846.jpg
    Also most of the bolts and brackets are off and sorted into gold and silver for zinc plating
    20180929_223450.jpg
     
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  19. TonyZXR

    TonyZXR Active Member Premium Member

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    Gave the frame a much needed clean with degreaser being quick so it doesn't attack the aluminium .
    20181003_165113.jpg

    Originally I wasn't going to paint the frame but after seeing how bad the condition of the paint was and the corrosion I don't have much choice

    20181003_165117.jpg

    You can see bits of acid damage from a previous battery exploding I'm guessing from overcharging as the regulator rectifier is a 2nd hand unit. The damage is much worse on the rear subframe, battery bracket and fasteners

    20181003_165130.jpg

    On to the swing-arm which has a fair amount of damage to it

    20181003_192750.jpg
    ^ripped off swingarm spool

    Found some aluminium bar stock laying around so i'll be making a new boss from that and welding it back on

    20181003_181734.jpg

    huge dent from the exhaust (who knows how many times its been dropped in it life with fairings off 4 different bikes and painted 10 times )


    With swingarms being not easy to come by with most of them having the same dent or worse I decided to put my panel beating skills to good use and repair it .

    20181003_194727.jpg
    ^First step was to drill a 10mm hole on the backside to allow a punch to fit inside . Then using a few different size and shapes of bar it got to where it is now

    20181003_195936_HDR.jpg
    More than good enough , only has a few little dents but they're so small and shallow I'm not going to worry , bit of metal putty and primer and she'll look good as new (and weld up the hole I drilled )

    20181003_200024.jpg

    ^straight as :D
     

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  20. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    Had similar corrosion and crappy paint on my MC-14 frame. Had it blasted, etch primed and painted with 2 pack silver. Looks like new now.
     

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