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Help Timing the bandit (GJ74A GSF250)

Discussion in 'Suzuki 250cc In-line 4's' started by Joker, Oct 22, 2014.

  1. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Hi Guys,

    I'm just a little hesitant here as I know how important it is to get right. The hesitation comes from running off a GJ73A manual on a GJ74A engine, it's extremely close but it is slightly different.

    For the most part getting the 16 pins aligned as per this is easy enough:

    Stu61.jpg

    The thing I am not sure about is the ignition timing and the marks. Note what the manual shows:

    STU104.jpg

    Then have a look at my advancer/ignition timer. There are additional marks. So the question is, do I use the "T" mark as TDC or the line after the T as suggested by the manual. Some people are telling me that's what the "T" means, but the spacing on the timer itself seems different and it's very hard to tell the difference between the mark after the T and the T itself in terms of where the first piston is at its cycle.

    DSC_0229.jpg

    What do we think is the right answer?
     
  2. TechHeadFred

    TechHeadFred Well-Known Member

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    Are these "some people" Suzuki certified mechanics or mechanical engineers who work for Suzuki and/or able to read Japanese? :p

    Not actually worked on a Bandit before but I'd use the timing mark after the T as per the picture. Service/workshop manuals have example pictures for a reason.
     
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  3. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Thanks mate. No, but the rotor in the picture is different to my rotor. The engine is so similar though, so you're probably right to take the manual for it.

    Any tips on installing the chain tensioner correctly?
     
  4. Boydie77

    Boydie77 Well-Known Member

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    Just in case you haven't solved this yet (and for those playing at home) this how I would tackle it.

    Firstly, put a screwdriver down plug hole of cylinder #1 and find top dead centre to confirm the T mark is indeed TDC. Leave it there and align the timing marks as per the manual, count out the 16 links of the chain. Install can chain tensioner, then SLOWLY turn the engine over by hand 2 full revolutions. If it stops anywhere, take all the bits out, re-time it as per the manual and repeat. If there is no piston to valve contact on either mark it should be safe to start the engine. Give it a gentle rev, it should be pretty obvious if the timing is out. I think timing it to TDC will win. I've been working off an Across manual & my GJ73a is exactly the same.
     
  5. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    It's really hard to tell if the T mark is TDC or the line next to it is. I've been back and forth with it a few times with pretty much no change either way. But I've checked both, the thing is, it may be timed right. It's just not firing up, or even getting close.
     
  6. Boydie77

    Boydie77 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, the idea with the screwdriver down the plughole is you can find TDC when it stops rising or falling, but the marks are very close together so it might not be accurate enough to tell. The only more accurate way would be to use a positvie piston stop and a degree wheel, these can be home made from an old spark plug by drilling it out and threading a bolt through it and a cheap 360 degree protractor for the degree wheel. Google for a guide on how to do it.

    That rotor is not easy to decipher alright, so timing it to TDC is the way to go. Even if it turns freely by hand I'd be careful about timing it to any marks in front of the T as if not correct this will advance the timing and the engine could detonate if it starts. Sounds like you have multiple issues, getting the right igniter box is going to be key. I had a bit of a look on Yahoo Japan, plenty of cheap-ish ones for the Bandits but without knowing part numbers for the 40hp box it would be a guessing game. When I get a chance I will test my two from the GJ73a and the Across with the ohmmeter and can give you the part numbers of each, but this will most likely just give you a couple of numbers to avoid! See how we go though...
     
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  7. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Hey Stu
    I'm trying to locate the disc for my 400 Bandit that Grey sent me, might have something we can work with ????...............it is in ENGLISH
    What do we think is the right answer?
     
  8. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    I really don't know mate. I have a much more mechanically savvy individual visiting for a few weeks, and if he can't get it running noone can.

    Honestly I still think it's the timing. The compression numbers are ok and I'll check the spark/fuel supply again to make sure. I was listening over and over again to Lupin's video he took of his exhaust to hear how the bike starts and it looks like his is the same model. But it doesn't sound the same so something's not right. Lupin's kindly helping me get some info when he can, it would be nice to compare it directly to another bike that runs.
     
  9. lupin

    lupin Active Member Premium Member

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    Here is the CDI in mine. Its the 45hp model.

    [​IMG]

    Couple of things for you to check that the internet doesn't seem to outline clearly.

    1. Left hand coil does 1 and 4, right hand 2 and 3. Mine was the other way around when I got it.
    2. Make sure you have the positive and negative around the right way on the coil. The coil is labelled. The wires that are the same colour on both sides are the positives. Getting it wrong will produce a weak spark.
     
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  10. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    THAT could be a very important piece of information I did not know!! I'll definitely look at that!!
     
  11. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Sooo.... a bit more tinkering and jimmy rigging and we're getting closer.

    What we've discovered is (1) I was one tooth off on the timing imagine my relief to hear that! %^Y&@^&!!!!

    (2) All the intake valves are leaking... badly. We reckon that's where all the compression is going. Funny as I tested the EXHAUST valves and I'm a dumb@$$ so ultimately... valve lapping here we come. Got the tool today and the fine powder/paste... going to be a fun weekend.

    In between all that, we hooked a drill on an allen key to the engine and she's kicking over but not quite starting (drill was smoking though!!) but seems to be building some compression. We spent 30 minutes last night pushing her up and down the street and we did get her running, but as soon as the momentum stopped she cuts out. So at least we know it will run once we fix the valve issues. Everything else seems to be good.... Glad someone more experienced that I knew what to look for!!

    Will keep you all posted. My mate reckons we'll have it going on saturday... I'm still skeptical but at least I have a little more hope than I had before.
     
  12. Boydie77

    Boydie77 Well-Known Member

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    Ahh that's great news you have the timing sussed! I hope you checked the valve clearances before taking the head off, if they have closed right up that could be the source of the problem. But I'm guessing that's why the cams came out in the first place. I have now checked clearances on 3 of these engines (2 GSXR, 1 Across) and they have all had lots of tight intake clearances but mostly in spec on the exhaust side. Seems like more than a coincidence, maybe the seats are soft on the intake side for some reason... My mate's engine that I am servicing atm has one intake now down to the thinnest available shim which is a bit of a worry. It has 50,000ks on the clock, I will leakdown test it when it's back together.
     
  13. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    I haven't checked with feeler gauges just yet, but there is clearance between the lobe and the top cap. We had a look at some of them but will check all of them before we pull the head off.
     
  14. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Well.... Bit ticky but lapped valves, a push start and...



    Hmm... what to do now lol
     
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  15. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Hooray :)

    The manual is showing the cam timing not the ignition timing. @Boydie77 is spot on. A degree wheel with a piston stop and split the difference is the best way to find exact TDC. You have to ensure that your piston stop has a small enough diameter that the valves do not hit it. On a lot of two strokes you can use a dial gauge with the same split the difference technique. The factories sold dial gauges for just this purpose as a special tool.
    The other mark will be a timing mark and it is before TDC. Some engines have both a static line for checking with the engine stopped (fully retarded) and a full advance line for checking with a strobe light.
     
  16. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    is it an import ? most of them have the speedos wound back
     
  17. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Selling now, unfortunately doing the bottom end of my car means I have to say goodbye to a project. Despite liking the bandit very much I think I have to stick with my almost-registered Fizzer. May consider wrecking provided the main bits go quick (frame, engine etc) because I can store little bits for a while.

    Expressions of interest via PM or here:

    http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/delahey/motorcycles/gsf250-bandit-project-bike/1072500866

    Will do a good deal for fellow 250cc members. Peace.

    So close and all that... but such is life. Missus is the boss.
     
  18. Ed Kim

    Ed Kim Member

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    Great thread! When I replaced the valve shims I also had to redo the timing and went off the line right after the 1.4T
     
  19. ajith2premalal

    ajith2premalal Member

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    hi i'm ajith.
    i have a bendit gsf250 .
    my cdi unit mcu is us. so i cant repair it.
    but i can make a new unit using a mcu. but i have no idia about ignitioan timin and timing weel signal. can you explain how to start ignition using timin weel image. then i can try. thank you.
     
  20. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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