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Project The Yamaha R4 (Glacially Slow Project)

Discussion in 'Other Projects - Other Bikes (non 250's)' started by maelstrom, Dec 20, 2014.

  1. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Oh funny you should mention that. I have some of those in my goodie box and the same thing occurred to me as I wrote that post. Turns out my lathe arrives in Thailand next week so I will be able to get all manner of stuff finished now.
     
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  2. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Quality Control?
    So my R6 fairing bracket was sourced from China. It looked like this.
    R6_FairingBracket.jpg
    Notice how thin the support area is. There is only a couple of millimetres. Also all of the grommet holes are too large, not round and different sizes. If you try to fit the OEM grommets they just flop about. I bored all of mine out to 18mm with one of these doovers.
    HoleDrill.jpg
    Then used oversize grommets.

    To fix the flimsy bracket I welded a piece of 6mm onto it etc, etc. The hole centres are wider on the FZR400 than the R6 so you have to cut and weld that first.
    FairingBracketModded.jpg
    A little bit of a tidy up and then off for powder coating.
     
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    Last edited: Jun 9, 2017
  3. ruckusman

    ruckusman Well-Known Member Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Tell me more about this bracket, how much did it cost you? Can you throw it onto the scales for weight
     
  4. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    They cost peanuts. $20 something dollars. Mine, with the extra added on, weighs 790 grams.
     
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  5. ruckusman

    ruckusman Well-Known Member Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    OK that sounds promising, which year model R6 did your upper front fairing originate from? Excuse my memory and general laziness for not reading back
     
  6. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    The first model which I believe is 1999-2002. I chose that one so the instrument cluster is the same as the R7. If you want to do the same thing I have the grommets which I had custom made.
     
  7. ruckusman

    ruckusman Well-Known Member Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I love the styling of that model r6 - you've got me thinking silly projects again...
     
  8. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Well I plan to do an R2 also but trying to get a fizzer here is extremely difficult. I found a Honda MC19 in terrible condition, which is just what I want, but the owner won't sell, yet.
     
  9. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Hi all,
    Mr @my67xr @ruckusman and other composite, paint gods. I am half way through doing the headlight recesses. What I want to do is shape the curve where the recess meets the fairing. Both the glass and the epoxy bog I used to glue the recess into position do not sand very well, as in not very smooth. Do you suggest some automotive filler or some such for that job? Actually there are a lot of places on the body work that need to be fixed, high and low spots etc.
    HeadlightRecess_03.jpg
    Cheers
    Blair
     
  10. risky

    risky risky

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    do not use spray putty but hi build 2 pak primer or body filler. less is better than more. sand each layer before next skim coat and allow to dry thoroughly.
     
  11. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Is that a brand @risky or a type? Brand is important because here almost everything is complete rubbish, as in the stuff that the Chinese normally bin. The Thais will go to China and say "No, don't bin that. I will buy it and take it back to Thailand". There is also the uber expensive stuff like Glasurit, nothing at all in between.
    So here is a pic showing the maximum depth I can place the lights. That is flush, meaning that the lens does not protrude past the silhouette, but it does look good if I poke it out about 5mm more. Have to make a decision about that soon.
    HeadlightRecess_04.jpg
     
  12. ruckusman

    ruckusman Well-Known Member Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    for the edge of that recess - two options, more filler/bog then it must have a glass layer over the top for strength otherwise you risk cracking when you make the mould, or use the plastic sheet over the top trick...

    cut thin strips of glass t go around the perimeter of the circle which will build up where you need it - paint on the resin then put them in place - use very small pieces where you have deeper recesses. Then stretch the plastic over the entire recess and put the plug you used to made the tubes into the plastic to squeeze that part smooth. Stretch it gently so you don't break it.
    Then use fingers to smooth the outer surface to reduce sanding.

    You can also cut glass into little shreds and mix that into resin to make a sort of paste - it's very strong, downside is that when you sand be safety conscious because fibres will be in the dust.

    I suspect you'll need to put a flow coat over the entire surface before making your mould - flow coat dries very hard and sands and polishes to a high gloss finish so don't worry about slight scratches and rough surfaces at this point because the flow coat will need a sanded finish to grip.

    Any luck getting any microballoons? They make life a little easier, with epoxy however you have a brief window of time to sand before it becomes very hard and difficult to sand which is why I like using plastic where possible because it minimises the need to sand.
     
  13. risky

    risky risky

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    glasurit or as ruckus sayscheap 2 pak is oil based house paint and industrial hardner. where very good breathing apparatus or you will be dead before time. glass and then fill. aint no cheap or labour easy way.
     
  14. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Gee, Ruckus can't you give me the lazy bastard method? Microballoons yes, from the same boat shop that I got the West Systems stuff. Microballoons plus epoxy?????

    I was hoping to 'V' that joint out and fill with magic, strong, easy to sand, beautiful finish, wonder bog. The back of the recess is bonded to the fairing with epoxy bog and is quite strong.
     
  15. risky

    risky risky

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    I STUFFED UP.glasurit but if want a cheap 2 pak use oil based house paint and industrial hardener.will air cure. wear damn good breathing apparatus or will be dead before your time. to make a bog you can use fibreglass resin and micro balloons and if they are not available then talcum powder. then mix hardener in. smooth with finger before it sets as the talcum powder mix is hard to sand.micro balloons are foam esky material and easier to sand.
     
  16. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Last edited: Jun 30, 2017
  17. risky

    risky risky

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    have used the west system on carbon fibre. reminds me of araldyte.
     
  18. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    I cannot stand that polyester resin. I would rather eat my own head than play with that again, so epoxy it is, and that is what is readily available. I am using the slow hardener though. Working on recess No 2 now, and I just tried hairspray on the mold, but I think I used too much. Next time I will try the lightest coat. Be good when I can get back to the easy stuff like welding titanium. :)
     
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    Last edited: Jun 29, 2017
  19. my67xr

    my67xr Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I would sand it back with a flapper wheel, or carefully cut it back with a carbide burr if required then use some UV cure fibreglass resin and any old sanding dust to smooth it out and fill low's etc
    No surfboard repairer's near you ?

    And yeah use an Isocynate Free high build primer as a primer filler if you can find one, i usually give it a couple of thin coat's of etch primer to help it stick
    Again the marine industry use's this

    I use the solid/hard Carnuba wax as a release agent
     
  20. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    I live a long way from the coast.
    I am going to try the West Systems 403 Microfibers and epoxy to make a filler goop for the edge. I will carve it out a bit with the dremel first. Even if it is not ideal I need to get some experience with all this composite business. @my67xr, @risky @ruckusman I will get back to you guys when it comes time to do the smoothing of the whole fairing and in the mean time see if I can chase up this hi build primer in Thailand.
    Thanks
    Blair
     
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