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Help Suzuki GSF250V (baby bandit) no start situation

Discussion in 'Maintenance' started by catmanjan, Mar 26, 2016.

  1. catmanjan

    catmanjan Member

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    Not really at the "pulling my hair out" stage, but getting there...

    Changed oil, coolant, spark plugs, fresh petrol, battery - clutch in, killswitch off, hit the starter, pistons moving but no ignition.

    I seem to be getting spark to all the plugs, and the cylinders weren't flooded

    Will check for compression tomorrow...

    What's my best next step? These carbs look like they're gonna be awful to get into

    Hoping there's someone else on here with the same bike/experiences
     
  2. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    I played around with my bandit for a while before I wrecked it (got it going but it wouldn't start from the button, had to be a push due to compression) Same sort of symptoms, I'd be starting straight out with that compression test before doing anything then looking at valve clearances if it is low. If neither of those don't get you mighty close I'd be surprised.

    Something about these bikes, they seem to be very sensitive to compression I keep hearing...

    Was it a runner before you got it?
     
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  3. catmanjan

    catmanjan Member

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    Alright, do I need to do anything special for the compression test? Full throttle and 4 compressions?

    Specs I've found say 165psi+ with ~25psi difference between cylinders

    No hadn't run for some time
     
  4. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    First thing I'd do is try and push start it, see if you can warm up the engine a bit beforehand. Compression is better done when the engine is warm, cycling the engine over quickly may mask the compression leak (if that's the issue) and at least get it going, that's how mine ran.

    Two parts to the test:

    1. Wide open throttle, crank it for a bit on each cylinder
    2. Insert a dessert spoon of engine oil into the spark plug hole and do (1) again.

    If the compression is significantly different with the oil when compared to no oil, you may have a ring issue. If it's about the same it's more likely valve clearances. Hope it's the latter, pulling these engines apart is a pain in the bum, my FZR is so much easier to work on... hence why my bandit is strewn all over the world (sent parts to NZ, russia etc through ebay believe it or not...).

    Good luck
     
  5. Ben Mulligan

    Ben Mulligan Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Timing is firing to the correct cylinder? I plugged mine in wrong once and had me confused for hours.

    Are the bowls filling on the carb? Fuel tap on? Does injecting some start ya bastard help it kick over for a second?

    I'd clean the carburettors out thoroughly particularly the pilot circuit.
     
  6. catmanjan

    catmanjan Member

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    I'd considered that, does the left side ignition coil go to 1 and 4 and the right side go to 2 and 3?

    Seems to be full of fuel - will get some start ya bastard today

    Do I need to remove the airbox to take the carbs off?
     
  7. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    LHS 1&4, RHS 2&3 (provided it is wired to the correct coils!)

    Yes you need to remove the airbox to get to the carbies. Test the compression though... do that before you dig too deeply.
     
  8. catmanjan

    catmanjan Member

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    Hmm compression seemed low but then I added oil in and it went up a lot, guess it needs new rings...

    Anyway after the compression test it started right up - will keep an eye on it though
     
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  9. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Great. I would look at valve clearances too, you may find an improvement there will keep it running with a bit of blowby on the rings. If it starts off the button then it sounds like you're not too far off, really bad compression would need a push.
     
  10. catmanjan

    catmanjan Member

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    Not sure if its oil or water at this stage I'll post a video, could you give me a second opinion?
     
  11. catmanjan

    catmanjan Member

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    Alright 99% sure it's oil now, I suspect there was some condensation in the pipes this morning due to not being started for several years...

    So most likely culprit is rings? Will have to put a call in with the mechanic :( valves were quite loud too I think
     
  12. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    It's hard to say. If oil in the cylinders significantly improved compression then you may have a ring issue. But it could be a combination of both rings and valves. The only way to know for sure is to do your valve clearances - it's pretty straightforward. Just take note of how the engine is timed before you pull of the chain because info on these bikes are a bit hard to find. I struggled to time mine properly for quite a while, eventually I took a plunge and was OK but would have been easier if I paid more attention in the first place!
     
  13. Ben Mulligan

    Ben Mulligan Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah, get a guide set (not too expensive to buy actually) and test the clearances on the valves joker is 100% right. When you changed the oil did you find any water or petrol inside? Was it viscous or thin?

    If your heads are clackety, then run the bike and check that oil is being pumped up to the top of the heads. It should get quieter as the bike and oil warms up and it starts to lubricate the parts

    Look rings aren't the end of the earth, but be sure to test everything else before you pull the cylinders off because its drama haha.
     

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