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Discussion in 'The Pub' started by kiffsta, Nov 3, 2013.
No thanks mate I’d like to leave this as original as possible
researched o-rings...again. This time I "dug into the details", i.e. opened my eyes a bit and noticed mcmaster has "
Metric O-rings are sized to the actual measured inside diameter." Explains why d2 didn't match ID/OD in the range of rings I was looking at. I'm assuming OD is listed in this case for "it fits something with this OD or smaller." So far it looks like I can pick up 25 of 1 size for $9!
Can get viton in one size that I need for a much higher cost per but still comperable to OEM pricing. Kicker being that o-ring will rarely be touched as it's the one that seals between the oil cooler itself and the engine.
As for saving a few pennies, for the OEM filter cover I can get 25 for the cost of 3 from OEM suppliers. I almost feel bad for it, but I've been raked over the coals enough times for things that you should be able to source elsewhere but some engineer decided they needed an oddball size.
Bearings can be a pain like that, too, having specific needle roller bearings that at OEM only.
I was going to comment before, but assumed @maelstrom filled you in, that the thickness of the o-ring isn't the depth of the recess - your measurement was the with of the recess, right? I see you have the dilemma of savings: I can buy one OEM for less than a bunch of aftermarket ones, but the aftermarket ones work out to be far cheaper per unit. I know that struggle
O-rings are sized by ID & cross section. The appropriate size is calculated according to a whole host of variables, and there are online calculators that can help with that.
Just about completed the last of my 3 Spada projects.
Lovely, awesome job
I was basing my selection on ID, OD, and recess. Where ID of the oring must be larger than ID measured, OD must be smaller than OD measured, and cross-section diameter must be larger than recess.
Now it sounds like I may have been going the wrong direction with that selection method. So far the calculators I've found have made my brain hurt but I just realized I was looking at piston application instead of axial face calculator.
You are over thinking the problem. Purchase a few different sizes. They are cheap. Then go with the one that appears to give the best seal.
I use this one a lot https://oringcalculator.eriksgroup.com/
Monday I got a roadworthy on the VFR, yesterday I got a roadworthy on the VTR, today I registered both. Nearly $600 later, guess who is eating nothing but rice this month! Better sort my insurance, too
If you were in Melbourne you would be paying over $520 just to register one bike and that's for a 250. Much more for a bigger bike.
Think yourself lucky!
6 months rego, single seater, stamp duty and plates. The second seat is $180/year, and that is all CTP. Car rego goes up with the number of cylinders, not sure if 6-cylinder bikes do, too
Oh. The rego fee I quoted is the annual renewal. For a new rego you have stamp duty and plate fees on top of that.
For a new bike rider in Victoria it gets very expensive by the time you factor in testing and licence costs. Than you have purchase all of your protective gear.
Peed myself a bit. BK Performance came through with more parts . Have to move funds around before I can pay for it, then starts the ever so painful wait for transit.
Sorry, for some reason I did not see this. The sizes you first quote are 2.5 & 2.0 cross section. Impex usually have the lowest prices for OEM parts.
My wallet might thank you if I've found the Impex you are talking about. https://en.impex-jp.com/ Shipping might kill any savings. o-rings I'm hunting are for an aftermarket part. impex may have them but I'll have to order more than just o-rings since shipping starts at $21US
And this sent me down a rabbithole I've always thought the MC22 should have a 4 into something into 4 exhaust which as far as I can tell would have to be a custom one-off. Started browsing yahoo japan and they have 4 into 2 into 2! But it's for a Jade so I'm not sure mounting would work out.
Check out the exhausts on @jmw76 RC162 replica.
Probably cheaper to have one made locally. If I were doing a custom 4 into 4, I would do this.
4 mufflers modelled on the RC162. The Conti mufflers used on early Ducati bevel drive twins have very similar appearance and a baffle design that is not too loud but retains a great sound. So in short, 4 baby Conti's. I used to have the cones rolled and gas weld them all myself when I was a youngster. You could go full project Binky and use cardboard to make mock ups first.
4 into 2 into 4 might be optimal or just 4 into 4 with a balance pipe across the headers is another approach
I would have short headers
In the US you can buy exhaust bends and collectors at the corner store, like everything else. The OEM pipes are 1-1/8" which won't be common, so okay, I guess you won't get them at 7-11. Even if you can't weld them yourself, you can fit, cut and tack. Then take to proficient welder and finally have them Cerakoted in black (or just spray with VHT) tada