Pinned So what have you done to your bike today?

I managed to drill off thread on the 1 remaining front disc bolt.
Seems my options are a bit limited in removal techniques.
I am not a big fan of easy-outs as it seems to be a 50/50 bet if it will move it or break off inside.

I can get myself a cobalt 6mm drill bit and then try to collapse what is left in the hole. Or go for a 6.5 cobalt bit.
Drill size for 8 x 1.25 is 6.75. 6.5 doesn’t leave a lot of bolt left and I would need to be very straight and central.
I don’t think LH drills will work on this as it is glued in with Loctite.
Any other suggestions?


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Just take the wheel to the nearest engineering shop that has a spark erosion machine and they will do it perfectly.

 

Spark Erosion has been around forever.
Not that many places do it unfortunately.
I rang around locally and unfortunately no-one close does it so I will try other methods first.
I got a larger butane torch and a matched drill and easyout to try.
I was going to get this kit but it was $85 so I thought I would try the number 3 easyout first.



These things are quite interesting. A LH drill and extractor in one.
There are cheaper versions but I don’t think they are as good in that the LH drill is on one end and the extractor is on the other end.
Probably won’t get to it until Saturday now.


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Here is a video of a spark erosion machine in action.




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When i took my disc's off to paint the first bolt was too tight, i used my butane torch on the the head until it started to get some wiff's of smoke come off.
Then used a Long shank allen key to undo the bolt making sure it was seated right into the bolt as far as it'd go

I have a set of those broken bolt's bit's.
Mine is a Snap On set, they're called Power-Out's
The way i read it in the instruction's is you drill into the bolt head and as the tapered part hit's the bolt it grabs in and does up on the thread.
It sounded like it would snap the drill or something so i've never tried them out in the 25 plus year's of owning them, lol

Have you tried using some new decent brand vise grip's on the head of the bolt?
Make sure it has the sharp serrated teeth to bite in.

 

Haha, yes, the theory sounds great but I wasn’t planning on spending $83 to trial it
Now the disc is off I can get a good shot at it with the gas torch.
Hopefully melting the loctite will help in it coming loose with the easyout.
I don’t think I have enough bolt left to get a good grip on it with my vice grips.



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I will be the first to admit that I hate everything about modern motorcycles. I think they look ridiculous. Having said that I think your twin tailpipes look good and they blend well with the lines of the bike

 

and lots of stupid plastic bits that serve no function at all except to make it look like a kid's toy.

 

I was well and truly over work today so come 5pm I headed out to the garage.
I had also realized I had this little set that I bought cheap on Groupon so figured I would give it a shot.



As you can see from the remains of the bolt sitting in the case it worked perfectly.
Well, mostly perfectly. The LH drill part wasn’t up to whatever material these bolts are so I drilled a nice deep 4mm hole ( so I could use my #3 easyout if the new device didn’t work) , slipped the #3 Speedout into my drill and with the drill slightly off vertical tried to remove the remains and low and behold, it just started unwinding. No heat at all needed. Maybe it was because there was no tension on after the head came off.
But it is now out with no damage to the disc or the rim.

I also grabbed one of the rear sets and bolted it up so I could see how the pedal and rear master cylinder lined up.



Next step is to get these tyres off the rims so I can decide if I repaint them or leave them as is and just polish up the lips.



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Working on my seat and working on my seat, but tomorrow, working on my seat.

 

Better recharge your Opal Card @Linkin