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Discussion in 'The Pub' started by kiffsta, Nov 3, 2013.
Take it easy Andy, don't rush to get back on the knee.
Been a bit slack lately. Yesterday, I went to fix the tacho needle on the Spada and to see what's involved to convert the bike from 428 chain to 520. The Spada runs 17T front and 54T rear with 428 chain as standard (well on this bike anyway). There aren't a lot of options available if you want to change the ratios. I want to make the bike a little taller, so I can take it on longer rides without the engine screaming its titties off. I found a 51T (428) rear sprocket online, but that's it. So, hopefully going to 520 chain will give me few more options. Anyone done this already? If so, please let me know what options are available. I believe the CBR250R MC19 uses the same 428 sprockets/chain...yes?
Anyway, pulled the dash off the bike and put a new tacho needle on. Cleaned the chain and it's all good now.
It is usually the speedo needle that breaks off , they don’t like the sun
Good job fixing it
I love the frame on that Spada, work of art.
I didn't think that through to well did I? I should have changed both while I had it apart. The piece of the tacho needle that broke off basically crumpled in my fingers when I found it.
as my dr says-oba= old bloody age.
@Frankster try this:
57 is not even listed, but there are 51-54 teeth options.
Edit: oops, I imagined you said 57.
A few ebay listing's say the Spada uses the same rear sprocket as a CBR250R and RR L / N , JT Sprocket's part number JTR1244-52
Metalgear has CBR250RR Esjot rear sprocket's listed in 520 pitch from 38T to 53T and are $32.90ea plus post
Yep, in 428 size you can get rears from 51T to 54T (as @ShaneP said), but I haven't found anything that's smaller and is definitely compatible with the spada rear wheel. I might have to order a 520 14T front sprocket for a CBR250R and see if that fits on the Spada. Can someone tell me if the CBR front sprocket is held on by a centre bolt like the Spada?
Look's like they're the same.
Why do you want a 14T front sprocket? you'll make it rev more at higher speed's
The 428 17T front sprocket currently on the bike is matched to a 54T rear sprocket. If I go to a 520 setup I can get a CBR250R 14T front (that's all that was available on the Metalgear site) and then play around with the rear sprocket to get the ratio I want for long haul riding. Currently, it's 17T/54T, which is a ratio of 3.18 so going to 14T/40T (2.86) should be much better for cruising. The current 428 17T front sprocket fits in the housing, but going to a 520 size chain and sprockets means going to a smaller front sprocket to make it fit. I doubt a 17T 520 front sprocket will fit in the Spada housing. I have to be careful as a few parts/images I've found online relate to the VTR Interceptor sold in America and not the Spada.
Ok no problem's.
So at 110km/h you would currently be revving at about 8600 rpm with the 17/54
With a 14/40 at 110km/h you will be revving at about 7700 rpm's
You'll lose 11.2% of your engine torque, and gain 11.2% top speed at the same rev you were doing,
going from a 17/54 to 14/40 you'll need a shorter chain too.
The Spada shouldn't have a problem with that change, i went up 2x size's in the front sprocket on my uncle's XV250 Virago and that doesn't really affect it too much, was about a 13% difference in gearing
Don't think Metalgear have the 40T in stock atm, it's either the 39T or the 43T in 520 pitch
Can confirm the centre bolt on CBR front sprocket Frankster.
Go with the 39 tooth as the odd number teeth will wear better than an even number that is getting the same chain rollers on them each time around.
I wish. If that was the case I probably wouldn't bother changing anything. Not sure why, but this bike revs a lot in higher gears. The VT250F is much better (speed/revs) for longer riding, but the Spada is a much nicer bike, so gearing change is in order. We currently use the Spada for short "down to the shops" work, which it's perfectly suited to.
So, if I had a 15T front, then an even number rear would be okay?
Finally managed to take my engine cases and the 350cc barrel down to DNA Custom Cycles for machining as well as getting some blanking plugs made for the TT350 Clutch cover (kickstart and decomp lever), plus the FZR250 Top bridge to be modified to take the SRX250 3WP Instruments.
I then dropped my Tank off at Riverstone Radiators for them to dip it to strip all the paint off and clean it up inside. The tank should be ready later on next week so I should get my act together and organise some paint etc.
I have decided to go with DNA Spilt Blood Candy basecoat. It goes on just like a normal metallic paint which makes it nice and easy (relatively) for me to paint the parts I beed to paint.
I might even get some paint onto the frame this weekend.. might I said...
Managed a few things today... I finally managed to get the fork seals to go in all the way so the circlip goes in nicely.. just needed a little heat from a heat gun... made all the difference. The lowers have now been rubbed back with 400 Wet and Dry ready for another coat of wheel silver and then some wheel clear coat.
I also started sanding back the rear seat fairing (3 pieces). One was fine as it was soft aftermarket paint and came off easy.. the other 2 pieces had factory paint and it is a lot harder to sand it down.. I dont want to be too aggressive so it is 180 Wet and Dry (wet) and once all the colour is off I give it 240 then 400.
Maybe tomorrow I will do some minor filling on the frame to cover up some grinder marks and get some colour onto it.. Maybe..
At least I can do most of this stuff sitting down so no weight on the left knee
put some kitchen detergent in the water and it will help with the rubbing.
Aircraft/Plastic paint stripper is good stuff, doesn't affect the plastic.
Why do you need to strip it before painting ?
Just scuff it back to remove the gloss, then plastic prime any bit's that are rubbed through, then etch prime and paint, or prime sand and paint
There were some nicks and gouges and I just want it to all be as nice and level as possible. so far I havent gone through to the palstic... the soft paint has revealed it was red underneath the black paint.. and the factory paint can still see a very faint amount of the blue.. the rest appears to be primer. I didnt want to strip all the paint off.. just get a good smooth surface to work from.