Pinned So what have you done to your bike today?

Look's like they're the same.
Why do you want a 14T front sprocket? you'll make it rev more at higher speed's

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE...317913&hash=item1a1eab4e62:g:rrkAAOSwMVdYEeVh

 

The 428 17T front sprocket currently on the bike is matched to a 54T rear sprocket. If I go to a 520 setup I can get a CBR250R 14T front (that's all that was available on the Metalgear site) and then play around with the rear sprocket to get the ratio I want for long haul riding. Currently, it's 17T/54T, which is a ratio of 3.18 so going to 14T/40T (2.86) should be much better for cruising. The current 428 17T front sprocket fits in the housing, but going to a 520 size chain and sprockets means going to a smaller front sprocket to make it fit. I doubt a 17T 520 front sprocket will fit in the Spada housing. I have to be careful as a few parts/images I've found online relate to the VTR Interceptor sold in America and not the Spada.

 

Ok no problem's.

So at 110km/h you would currently be revving at about 8600 rpm with the 17/54
With a 14/40 at 110km/h you will be revving at about 7700 rpm's

You'll lose 11.2% of your engine torque, and gain 11.2% top speed at the same rev you were doing,
going from a 17/54 to 14/40 you'll need a shorter chain too.
The Spada shouldn't have a problem with that change, i went up 2x size's in the front sprocket on my uncle's XV250 Virago and that doesn't really affect it too much, was about a 13% difference in gearing


Don't think Metalgear have the 40T in stock atm, it's either the 39T or the 43T in 520 pitch

 

Can confirm the centre bolt on CBR front sprocket Frankster.
Go with the 39 tooth as the odd number teeth will wear better than an even number that is getting the same chain rollers on them each time around.

 

I wish. If that was the case I probably wouldn't bother changing anything. Not sure why, but this bike revs a lot in higher gears. The VT250F is much better (speed/revs) for longer riding, but the Spada is a much nicer bike, so gearing change is in order. We currently use the Spada for short "down to the shops" work, which it's perfectly suited to.

 

So, if I had a 15T front, then an even number rear would be okay?

 

Finally managed to take my engine cases and the 350cc barrel down to DNA Custom Cycles for machining as well as getting some blanking plugs made for the TT350 Clutch cover (kickstart and decomp lever), plus the FZR250 Top bridge to be modified to take the SRX250 3WP Instruments.
I then dropped my Tank off at Riverstone Radiators for them to dip it to strip all the paint off and clean it up inside. The tank should be ready later on next week so I should get my act together and organise some paint etc.
I have decided to go with DNA Spilt Blood Candy basecoat. It goes on just like a normal metallic paint which makes it nice and easy (relatively) for me to paint the parts I beed to paint.
I might even get some paint onto the frame this weekend.. might I said...

 

Managed a few things today... I finally managed to get the fork seals to go in all the way so the circlip goes in nicely.. just needed a little heat from a heat gun... made all the difference. The lowers have now been rubbed back with 400 Wet and Dry ready for another coat of wheel silver and then some wheel clear coat.
I also started sanding back the rear seat fairing (3 pieces). One was fine as it was soft aftermarket paint and came off easy.. the other 2 pieces had factory paint and it is a lot harder to sand it down.. I dont want to be too aggressive so it is 180 Wet and Dry (wet) and once all the colour is off I give it 240 then 400.
Maybe tomorrow I will do some minor filling on the frame to cover up some grinder marks and get some colour onto it.. Maybe..
At least I can do most of this stuff sitting down so no weight on the left knee

 

Aircraft/Plastic paint stripper is good stuff, doesn't affect the plastic.
Why do you need to strip it before painting ?
Just scuff it back to remove the gloss, then plastic prime any bit's that are rubbed through, then etch prime and paint, or prime sand and paint

 

There were some nicks and gouges and I just want it to all be as nice and level as possible. so far I havent gone through to the palstic... the soft paint has revealed it was red underneath the black paint.. and the factory paint can still see a very faint amount of the blue.. the rest appears to be primer. I didnt want to strip all the paint off.. just get a good smooth surface to work from.

 

Well.. I did get out and do some more on Sunday.. finished sanding down the rear seat fairings after having to do some minor filling where I had welded up a crack. Plastic primed and then Primer on top.. well mostly as I ran out of Primer.
I also sprayed the fork lowers but I am not happy with the finished colour.. I am going to get myself some Dupli color Hyper Silver I think... it is a really good wheel colour and comes with clear.. it is quite resistant to chips etc.
I then pulled down the TT350 Carby and started cleaning it up... should come up nicely, I might even try a light bead blast as well.

 

If that was in Melbourne they'd probably get 20 hours of community service (which they wouldn't show up for!). Or, their court-appointed legal rep would argue that they're really really sorry and the government appointed judge would let them off with a warning!

 

I recently noticed an oil leak from one of the VT250F after a ride. After closer inspection I could only assume it is coming from the oil seal on the LHS of the motor that the gearbox push rod goes through. The leak stops when the engine isn't running, so I am pretty sure this is the culprit. The area behind this seal is under pressure, so it seemed likely.

I was hoping to change this seal from the outside, without having to do too much. Very much a case of hoping for the best and planning for the worst...because you have to split the cases to get to this little effing so and so. The following picture is for reference only. It's not the one leaking.



There's a lip surrounding half the seal and it even hides partially behind the drive shaft inner housing.



So, I'm trying to remain calm while I tell you that it's rather a big job to get to this little #@%*.

 

Have you tried using some old camera film negative's, use the slotted side between the seal lip and shaft to try and hook any dirt out?
I've never tried it on the gearshift shaft seal's, but it work's on fork seal's

 

Now I see the problem. Try pulling the push rod out and cleaning the edge/lips of the seal.
If that doesn't work I would try getting the seal out to the side after removing the push rod, and hopefully getting a new one in undamaged. If all that fails then it's engine out time.