Hello all, new member today. However been looking at your site where I can. I have just started a project on bringing my brothers 1989 Yamaha fzr 250 3ln back to life. I got it started for him 12 months ago, but he did nothing to it, so I have it at my house, to the girlfriends disgust.. It's going to be a pretty big project, everything rebuilt, cleaned up. From front to rear, starting at the rear. At this stage don't plan on pulling down engine or gear box. It has been repainted the blue purple colour and used to have the R2 stickers. Which I will have to source. Depending on the work, I may put up some info up, especially those where I have found part replacements from more modern bikes, as I am struggling to find parts. First weekend was pulling it down and started to polish the wheels while I was waiting for paint to dry on the various covers. Will try to upload photos where I can
Yours is a 3LN1, with the internal oil filter type. If it has a spin on filter then it is a 1990 or newer engine.
Thanks for the response.. Yes internal filter type. I pulled the exhaust off on the weekend to check which filter it was so i could buy a new one. I was looking for some new foot pegs, Crank cover and gasket, and some brake bleeder valves (to start with) as the ones look fairly old and rusted, but i think i found the same part number off a later model bike, which i can get them at a good price and quickly, as well as from Australia. I was thinking a new chain and both sprockets, however they actually look in good condition, the strange think i noticed was the joining link in the chain was similar i used to have in my Down hill Mountain Bike, not the ones you squash the "mushroom" like i have on my DRZ400 See your in Tamworth, shame about Goodman Fielder closing the bakery in Tamworth. a good friend of mine would be turning in his grave if he knew that was happening
Got a damaged side cover? Fizzer factory might be able to help you out @GreyImport For the gaskets, you will need the part number. Use the 3YX model code (Yamaha Zeal) as they were official sold here and mechanics have rocks in their heads when it comes to a grey import bike like the FZR250's. It's in the parts book on here, but you need to throw a few bob to the forum for access to the resources, as otherwise people would take them and go, and this place would be a ghost town.
Welcome There's lot's of information here if you search through members' thread's etc. I've only been here a short time and found there's lot's of people ready to help with question's and other advice Start a build thread and post up your progress, it's alway good to use it as a log to remind you what you've done and how long ago etc Also help's to inspire people to do some work themselves, learn more about their bike's, and save money at the same time Have you had a look it the 250 Project thread's area? there's quite a few FZR thread's You can buy new replacement rubber's for the foot peg's if you want, i know they are around $22 delivered for the pair off Aliexpress http://ru.aliexpress.com/item/Motor..._7&btsid=1ca84eaf-3123-439a-b3a2-314fb6877112
have good fun with the fizzer get it running well before you get carried away with the cosmetics. List of to do not in any specific order Do valve clearances Check & adjust EXUP valve Spark Plugs and trim plug leads Check carbs for fuel level and balance
Thanks everyone, Especially my67xr for the link to Ali.. Have t had a good look through the build threads.. Ruckusman, are there threads on how to do those that you have listed?
always remember the're no such thing as a silly questions, they're a very friendly helpful bunch around here carb fuel levels http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/carb-fuel-level-everyones-favourite.3254/ carb seal and o-ring kits from the Maestro, Monsieur Maelstrom http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threa...-fzr250r-3ln1-3ln3-3ln5-and-fzx250-zeal.1043/ forgot to mention - check the tank for rust, you'll know all about it if the're a sludge in the bottom of he carburettors http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/rusty-fuel-tank-electrolysis.1809/ valve clearances http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/fzr250-zeal-fzx250-valve-clearances-howto.1697/ EXUP info http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threa...-powervalve-information-and-maintenance.1099/ R6 shock conversion http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/fzr-r6-rear-shock-conversion.8813/ loads more info on the fizzer in this forum http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?forums/yamaha-250cc-in-line-4s.95/
I had a big novel typed up but ruckusman has covered it all Have a look here for pictures of the FZR timing marks. They indicate top dead centre, compression stroke, cylinder 1 (leftmost as you sit on the bike) http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threa...-to-ihx-series-engines-2kr-3ln-zeal-etc.3921/
Hi Rukusman Thanks for the info, I was trying to read over the Valve clearance thread as well as the one from Linkin, but it looks a little hard. maybe cause i am not looking at an engine why i am reading it. as i dont know if it has been done i probably should do it, however not sure if it is outside my skill set.. the carby one should be okay, as i recently worked on my drz400 carby when i re jetted and played with fuel screw. I think this is going to take a little longer than i was hoping
The most important thing is not to rush the job. If you have it as a project you can always leave the job in the garage/shed and come back to it later. Valve clearances can be a quick or long job, it depends on what operates the valves. If you have pushrods and rockers, it's just a screw and locknut per valve. An FZR engine is a 4 cylinder, 4 valves per cylinder, dual overhead cam engine. Meaning there's as much work to do on the valve clearances as a 600cc or 1000cc inline 4 I can't wait for the day that they get hydraulic lifters small enough to use in bikes (what cars use, never need a manual valve adjustment). But of course by then, who knows if anyone will still be making inline 4 motorcycle engines. They certainly don't make 250cc inline 4's any more, despite all the rumours.
I was going to say, give me a 302 windsor, and could do it with my eyes shut.. i had a quick look on you tube but couldnt really find anything. I hope that once i have the engine in front of me it will make more sense. I just hope it can easily be done with out the engine coming out.. Will give it a go this sunday..
It is actually simpler to do with the engine out and on a bench in front of you - it's definitely not quicker though
It is actually simpler to do with the engine out and on a bench in front of you - it's definitely not quicker though
I could imagine, Is the engine easy to get out? i am a little limited to space and tools at home. (and gf complaining of taking up the garage and surrounding areas) I watched a really good video on You tube on the carby cleaning/setting last night, so that will be sunday morning this weekend.
the engine isn't difficult to remove, just needs you to be methodical and use common sense, FWIW if you're going to do the clean it through and through you can get to difficult to clean spots with the engine out. Only point I'd make is that you only need to check the valve clearances to see if they need adjustment, which is easily done with the engine installed. If your primary goal is to get it running well before doing all of the cosmetics, I'd say leave it installed, because you'll need some joy of it running well and a little ride now and then to keep the momentum going for the other stuff. The net is littered with unfinished projects, so finishing a well running bike is a much more likely prospect, in the end it won't matter how good it looks because if doesn't run well joy will be in short supply
